Transom Rebuild - follow my journey

Fishtales

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Don't want to beat them too bad. Every boat has its pros and cons. I've owned two and overall the boats are decent riding and very predictable on the water. I thought the Marlin rode like a yacht coming out of the 282 Sailfish. I just wish they would fix the transom. If I buy another, I'd make my best deal and then want $10K additional at the end off so I could immediately have the transom redone before it went in the water.
 

Pat Hurley

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" If I buy another, I'd make my best deal and then want $10K additional at the end off so I could immediately have the transom redone before it went in the water".

My thoughts exactly !! I like the boat too.

Cost to correct it would be much less, I suppose if done prior to moisture intrusion. Pull that asinine cap off and glass it over. De-core all penetrations on transom and epoxy fill.
 
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IFish4Tuna

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And here's where I am....
No sign of rot in the stringers. So I am 90% committed to ordering new Suzuki 250s. Suzuki dealer will not put on 300s since boat is rated for 500. I just don't know if I will go with the 250AP or the 250T model. I have more research to do to understand the differences on why I would want one over the other.

Note the hole drilled for new port hole cover on the side of the transom. Near the bottle in the picture. There is one on other side also. Needed for access.
Through that hole can see that the aluminum frame is welded to another aluminum frame that runs the length of the boat.

This work is being done at Clark Yacht Services in South Berwick, Maine by the legend Ducky Clark.

Aluminum will be cleaned up and painted as best possible w/ limited access before the rebuild.



Transom.jpg
 
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No sign of rot in the stringers. So I am 90% committed to ordering new Suzuki 250s. Suzuki dealer will not put on 300s since boat is rated for 500. I just don't know if I will go with the 250AP or the 250T model.



Without a doubt, you will want the AP. Night and day different engine over the T model.
 
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Sorry for the oddly displayed post. Not sure if it is my phone or the site doing weird things.
 

alan campbell

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Im a little pissed. We pAY ALOT OF MONEY FOR THESE GRADY WHITES AND i too had problems with the hull delimitation. Cost me 6,000 but it left a bitter taste in my mouth because i am now looking to buy a bigger boat and quite frankly, i'm not sure if i will buy another Grady White. I'm concerned with Quality Control.
 

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GRADY WHITE NEEDS TO BE MADE AWARE OF THESE DEFECTS. IF THEY CARED, THEY WOULD MONITOR THIS SITE.
 

IFish4Tuna

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The rebuild so far. More layers to go.

Things to note... The aluminum cross bar had to be sanded down and primed.

The mounting holds on the aluminum cross bar will need to be reference points for where the new bolts will be drilled. There is going to need to be some coordination between repair shop and engine dealer on hole drilling. The repair shop suggests to drill slightly ovesized holes and fill with epoxy, then the bolt holes will be drilled through the epoxy. The goal being to keep the transom from weeping water in the drill holes. I like that idea.

Also attaching original spec from GW. The repair shop used more fiberglass than wood.

Also attaching info from GW on changes when they switched from 2 stroke to 4 stroke. So no structural changes just scuppers raised. I was unable to convince them to agree to letting me put 300's on the rear. I have question out to my insurance company about their position on 300s before I pull the trigger on purchasing. It's now between Suzuki 250AP vs 300AP. Same block, same weight. Just different HP rating.


IMG_9368 (1).JPG
IMG_9365 (1).JPGIMG_9364 (1).JPG
transom.png
changes.jpg
 
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Pat Hurley

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Looks good… I’m onboard with the glass guy suggesting the epoxy filled holes
 
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IFish4Tuna

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718D8DBF-F449-4814-B186-00F1B08EF308.jpeg

One more from today. Shop was open so i stopped in. Gelcoat sprayed on. Will be sanding and adjusting as needed. Should be done by end of week
 
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The difference in the 250's to the 300's might be 3 to 4 mph at best on the top end. I would think with the 250's you should be topping out around 50 mph. Around these parts being able to cruise at 30 doesn't happen often enough to worry about WOT numbers. The overall power curve of the 250 probably won't be that much different than the 300 until you cross 5k rpms.
Keep in mind that those who have over powered Grady hulls tend to report the boats get squirrelly at higher speeds. They aren't designed to keep up with Freemans.
 
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Pat Hurley

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The difference in the 250's to the 300's might be 3 to 4 mph at best on the top end. I would think with the 250's you should be topping out around 50 mph. Around these parts being able to cruise at 30 doesn't happen often enough to worry about WOT numbers. The overall power curve of the 250 probably won't be that much different than the 300 until you cross 5k rpms.
Keep in mind that those who have over powered Grady hulls tend to report the boats get squirrelly at higher speeds. They aren't designed to keep up with Freemans.
I seem to recall the performance numbers with the 350’s were the best , mileage and rpms/speed etc. However they are no longer available. Assuredly the 300’ s will outperform the 250’s somewhat. Just is the added cost worth it ? Maybe
 

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I seem to recall the performance numbers with the 350’s were the best , mileage and rpms/speed etc. However they are no longer available. Assuredly the 300’ s will outperform the 250’s somewhat. Just is the added cost worth it ? Maybe



I thought ifish was running a 282, not a Marlin? If a Marlin, then yes, I would want 300 hp +.
 

Pat Hurley

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Whoops my bad … thought we were talking Marlin. In that case (282) the 250’s would be plenty
 

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:p
Looks like we were both wrong! Yeah, I'd want the 300's too!