Transom Transducer Mounting Location

[Bdsp1234]

On my 2001 226, I am having problems with heavy water spray from the transducer to the motor, causing salt water to get inside the cowling and leaving residual. Mechanic check cowling etc for gaskets and seals to be sure they were not the issue. Took the boat out for a ride with mechanic, and the spray is 100% from the transducer.

The Garmin transducer shield did nothing. I believe it is mounted too low.

Does anyone have any pictures of how and where exactly they have the transduce mounted. Part of the issue is the deadrise.

Would greatly appreciate any feedback

 

[LongIslandGulfstream]

Had the same issue on my gulfstream with my simrad totalscan transducer! I even built my own shield out of split PVC which helped until it tore off my transomsaver mount. Ended up giving up and went with a shoot thru transducer. Reads depth fine but less detailed as a fishfinder unfortunately

 

[Coastboater]

Here’s a pic of when I mounted a transom saver to my 215. For the transducer itself, I used a level to project the hull bottom and set the transducer height with the front of the transducer’s mid-line even with the hull bottom and the rear of the transducer slightly lower than the hull bottom. Side scan, ClearVu, etc all work fine and I don’t lose depth at speed.

 

[DennisG01]

The deadrise isn't really a problem - it's really no different than any other boat. The goal of the ducer mounting is to get it just barely skimming across the surface - which, of course, means the outboard side will be a tad lower. Get the inboard side of the ducer just below the hull so it skims. If you want more details, look in the installation manual - they usually have templates, too. You can download the installation manuals if you don't have the original paperwork. But don't get too caught up in worrying about whether or not you're finding info for a "Grady"... in this case, a boat is a boat is a boat.

 

[Msp381]

Here’s a pic of when I mounted a transom saver to my 215. For the transducer itself, I used a level to project the hull bottom and set the transducer height with the front of the transducer’s mid-line even with the hull bottom and the rear of the transducer slightly lower than the hull bottom. Side scan, ClearVu, etc all work fine and I don’t lose depth at speed.
View attachment 33030

What’s with the tape?

 

[DennisG01]

What’s with the tape?

He's gluing mounting blocks on.

 

[Coastboater]

What’s with the tape?

That’s called a transom saver. Epoxy a chunk of starboard to the transom to mount the transducer. I also epoxied a couple cable tie mounts, too. No holes drilled through the transom below the waterline.

 

[Coastboater]

Here’s a couple pics that are hopefully helpful.
I’m holding an aluminum square flat against the hull bottom adjacent to the transducer. The square is about 1/8” thick.
You can see the nose of the transducer slightly lower than the hull bottom and is at a slight angle downwards at the rear.
The transducer is a Garmin GT 54 or 56. Whichever # it’s Garmins 350 watt ClearVu/Sidescan model. I don’t lose bottom at any speed, but I haven’t ventured in waters more than 70’ deep since installing.

 

[Msp381]

He's gluing mounting blocks on.

Interesting. What do you use to glue that on?

That’s called a transom saver. Epoxy a chunk of starboard to the transom to mount the transducer. I also epoxied a couple cable tie mounts, too. No holes drilled through the transom below the waterline.

Thanks. I’m familiar with the transom saver but didn’t know you could simply epoxy it on. What kind of epoxy did you use?

 

[DennisG01]

Interesting. What do you use to glue that on?

Generally, 3M5200 is used. It doesn't stick "great" to HDPE (the material being used), but it's decent enough. Nothing sticks really well to HDPE. Flame treating and roughening the surface helps, though. Sometimes they still pop off and damage the transducer/wiring/hull.

Personally? I never use them - I properly seal the penetrations in the transom and will never have an issue. I just feel better doing it that way. If someone isn't comfortable with taking the extra steps, I get it.

 

[Coastboater]

Interesting. What do you use to glue that on?

Thanks. I’m familiar with the transom saver but didn’t know you could simply epoxy it on. What kind of epoxy did you use?

Stern Saver is a brand and a company that supplies a kit for the installation. The kit consists of a starboard block, a 2-part epoxy, sandpaper, alcohol wipes, gloves, and a mounting template system that makes locating and keeping the block in place very easy. The starboard block is machined - nice radii all around and milled pockets in to the bonding surface. The epoxy, according to them, is a modified formulation that helps with bonding to the starboard.
www.sternsaver.com

 

[DennisG01]

Stern Saver is a brand and a company that supplies a kit for the installation. The kit consists of a starboard block, a 2-part epoxy, sandpaper, alcohol wipes, gloves, and a mounting template system that makes locating and keeping the block in place very easy. The starboard block is machined - nice radii all around and milled pockets in to the bonding surface. The epoxy, according to them, is a modified formulation that helps with bonding to the starboard.
www.sternsaver.com

I think it works decently because because of the surface area. Do you happen to know what this "modified" epoxy is? It's still going to be tough to get a true bond to HDPE, but I'd be curious to hear more about the epoxy.

 

[DennisG01]

I haven't looked for this, but if one could get a block made out of PVC, that would allow a much better bond.

 

[Coastboater]

I think it works decently because because of the surface area. Do you happen to know what this "modified" epoxy is? It's still going to be tough to get a true bond to HDPE, but I'd be curious to hear more about the epoxy.

On their website they use the term “adhesive” and I may be incorrect calling it “epoxy”. The 2-part comes in a mixing tube, but I still squeeze it out on to a piece of cardboard and mix it thoroughly.
If you look at the back of their blocks, the perimeter holes are machined with an undercut which provides a mechanical locking feature along with the adhesive’s chemical bond. The center hole looks different from the others as that is used for a locator piece that you stick on the hull once you find the block position you want.

edit: here’s a video:

He doesn’t call it epoxy, but if you look closely at the tube label it says epoxy on it. There’s also a clear view of the undercuts in the holes. Looks like a coarse threaded internal feature.

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks for that. Undercutting the holes is a smart move.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

I'm not sure which transducer you're using, but this is the one that I purchased for my 2004 GW 228 Seafarer, as well as the instructions that came along with it. I imagine the instructions are probably pretty similar for whatever model you have, and here is also a video showing them mount the transducer as well.

https://static.garmin.com/pumac/GT36_56UHD_TM_Transducer_Installation_EN-US.pdf

 

[SkunkBoat]

That’s called a transom saver. Epoxy a chunk of starboard to the transom to mount the transducer. I also epoxied a couple cable tie mounts, too. No holes drilled through the transom below the waterline.

There is a brand called SternPAD. Uses 3M VHB tape. No epoxy. Goes on easy. Stays on for years. Mine has been there since 2018
https://www.amazon.com/Stern-Pad-Jumbo

 

[family affair]

I'm not sure if the brand is the same, but I got the same or similar from my local Cabela's service center. They had them in white. 2 years and still holding the same ducer as Stang. I mounted mine nose slightly down to account for hull running angle. Gives me depth readings at cruise without issue. The right 3M tape on the right plastic can be stout.

 

[Sdfish]

Location on my Adventure 208. I also have a stern saver installed.

 

[Bdsp1234]

Location on my Adventure 208. I also have a stern saver installed.

View attachment 33101