In the process of updating the hydraulic trim tabs to electric with auto retract and indicator control. The help line at Grady and Bennet have been great at helping get the correct parts. Installed the new cylinders on the tabs with no issues, now have to pull the wires and install the new control in the console. The biggest challenge appears to be working under the console. The boat is a 1993 24' Explorer. Any tips would be appreciated.
Trim Tab update
- Thread starter Hey Doc
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Do you have access to the dash from the cabin? In my Offshore, there is a carpeted box that can be removed. You can also remove a dash panel to help with access. Other than that, the access via going underneath is probably like pretty much every other boat out there - not "easy", but certainly doable.
I have the carpeted box mentioned above, but most of the access needed is toward the rear. I removed several panels under the helm and can get to what is needed. Pulled the wires today using the old tubing. A little tough to reach the tubing from the access hole inside the cabin, but the wires pulled easily. Had the foresight to mark both ends of the wire sets as they are identical. Next step is to increase the hole in the dash to 2.5 inches to accommodate the new switch. Another note, had to remove the live well to access several points of attachment to free the hydraulic tubing. Having the live well out will allow for better hiding of any excess wires.
While I am into this: thinking about separating wash down pump and adding a dedicated pump for the live well. Any suggestions on pump selection?
Another question:
What do you all use for antifoulant on the stem and motor bracket?
Since replacing the engine, I have used the spray paint from West Marine designed for outdrives. This summer anywhere the spray paint was used there was a terrible infestation of barnacle and even oysters. For the previous 30 years we have painted everything with the same antifoulant used on the hull. I do have some flaking of paint from the sea drive aluminum bracket and assumed this was due to a reaction between the aluminum and the copper paint.
While I am into this: thinking about separating wash down pump and adding a dedicated pump for the live well. Any suggestions on pump selection?
Another question:
What do you all use for antifoulant on the stem and motor bracket?
Since replacing the engine, I have used the spray paint from West Marine designed for outdrives. This summer anywhere the spray paint was used there was a terrible infestation of barnacle and even oysters. For the previous 30 years we have painted everything with the same antifoulant used on the hull. I do have some flaking of paint from the sea drive aluminum bracket and assumed this was due to a reaction between the aluminum and the copper paint.
I use Pettit Hydrocoat Eco on the boat and engine. It doesn't have copper. I wouldn't be opposed to using Hawk's or TotalBoat's version, either.
Spray paint anti-foul is not worth it - just doesn't cut it. Trilux 33 (brush on) is an excellent choice if you don't want to use the boat's anti-foul (I don't think that stuff has changed in decades).
Spray paint anti-foul is not worth it - just doesn't cut it. Trilux 33 (brush on) is an excellent choice if you don't want to use the boat's anti-foul (I don't think that stuff has changed in decades).
Sardinia306Canyon
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If the bracket is well painted then copper AF will not make any damage.
I guess the paint is flaking off due oxidation of the aluminum, building aluminum oxide filled bubbles and sooner or later day break open. Happen particularly with powder coated aluminum.
I painted for years my outboards bracket and trim cylinders without any negative effect.
Trilux33 is a great AF, however you should ask around what other use and what kind works best there where your slip is.
All antifouling are different, some work well in brackish water, some not, some work well with high temp water, some have a biocides added, some only copper and also in different %.
IF high copper work in your place then check the data sheets of different colors, some colors like red had/have a higher copper load than other, white one for example.
Chris
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this is an upgrade that is on my list. either this or the seakeeper ride system, but given the cost difference, probably this
I'm going to be tackling my trim tabs over the winter. Currently have inoperable hydraulics from Bennett on my Offshore as well. Is there a specific "kit" from Bennett to make the switch from hydraulic to electric? Cost of it?
Ekea
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just google "bennet electric trim tab conversion". they are 2-300 bucks. i think you can add on a new dash switch with position indicators for another 3-400 bucks
Suggest you go to the Grady site and get the actual model of your tabs then call Bennett (now owned by Yamaha) and they will tell you what is needed to convert. Mine needed log wire since the helm is forward on my walk around. They gave me the part numbers needed, then I googled and found the exact kit at Hodges Marine for much less than the Bennett list price.
Project completed. All panels had to be removed around the helm to complete wiring, but re assembled and complete. I have the complete hydraulic system if anyone needs parts.