UPDATE Advice dealing with Moisture at the Trim Tabs

[Fishtales]

I thought the hull was all glass in that area. I'd be inclined to clean them up and if good bed the screws with 4200 and bottom paint them.
Stainless under the waterline will rust a bit which looks like what you've got.

 

[DennisG01]

Thats what 5200 is for...ADHESIVE on shit that ain't supposed to come off.

You are 100% correct regarding the use of 5200!

But... what if a tab gets damaged? How do you get it off to replace it if doesn't come off?

Heat will probably work. But it doesn't really "seal" any better that a true sealant.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Not looking for a sealant....want an adhesive.

99% of tabs never come off. You'll get it off if you have to. You guys are telling him to drill out and add epoxy so you are already invasive...

 

[Saltyone]

Thought i was right in the bottom of the hull is solid glass. When I saw it was a 282, I was thinking those tabs are just like the 265 and the hinge is screwed into the bottom of the hull.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Thought i was right in the bottom of the hull is solid glass. When I saw it was a 282, I was thinking those tabs are just like the 265 and the hinge is screwed into the bottom of the hull.

I never really looked at it closely. It is possible that there is plywood core there for screws with thick glass inside of that. Kind of the opposite of a bilge pump mounting area.
Its not a spot you can easily look at from inside. I am purposefully never taking my tabs off so I don't have to find out....

On a boat, its not common to have screws threading into just glass. Usually there is plywood or there are machine screws going thru with a nut on the inside

 

[Fishtales]

I'd go with 4200 on both the screws and a little on the backing plate.

 

[A&J Outdoors]

Thank you all for the input. If the tabs are stainless, I wonder why they were painted in the first place. The paint was flaking off. Look at the link above, I think I'll just clean them good and leave them. This boat will not stay in the water, it will be stored indoors and will be washed down after each use.

 

[seasick]

In my experience, 5200 when used to seal screw holes ( not the tab flange, just the screws) is not permanent. I have had no problems removing screws. I guess it depends on the area that makes contact and for small screws, the area is pretty small. If I had 4200 on hand or a poly based sealant, I would use that.

 

[jap201]

Agree with seasick re: 5200. Also, 5200 isn't the best under water. I'd use epoxy and redrill, sealed w/4200 or a poly based sealant.

 

[DennisG01]

Thank you all for the input. If the tabs are stainless, I wonder why they were painted in the first place. The paint was flaking off. Look at the link above, I think I'll just clean them good and leave them. This boat will not stay in the water, it will be stored indoors and will be washed down after each use.

Even though they're SS, they can still get growth (whether soft or hard) on them. In your case, it's a moot point to paint them.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Even though they're SS, they can still get growth (whether soft or hard) on them. In your case, it's a moot point to paint them.

they look like they were pre-primed for anti-fouling later

 

[DennisG01]

they look like they were pre-primed for anti-fouling later

You're probably right.

With a little time, they'll clean up nice and shiny, though.

 

[A&J Outdoors]

Great discussion guys, and thank you all for the input. I do have 4200, 5200, Life Seal and Life Caulk on hand. Now it's time to pick the best one.

 

[Sailfish]

If the core is solid, take some acetone on a Q-tip, and wipe the hole out to dry everything out. Let everything dry out for a few days. Drill an oversize hole. Fill with epoxy to seal the core. Drill a hole for the screws, and seal screws with a sealant suitable for use below the waterline. Do not use 5200, as trim tabs are a maintenance item that need to be replaced periodically, and you don't need to make that job harder.