Update on engines....back to the drawing board lol

[RussGW270]

Welp, water pumps still not pushing water. Need to see if there is a tool for pushing through thebwater line to see if there is some sort of clog.

need to also see what the cost would be to have someone professionally do it all. I got a quote for like 350 per engine, maybe 450, for a 100hr maintenance, just not sure that includes the water pump as well.

either way, back to square 1.

but, installed 2 new breakers for the dash. Batteries were dead, thought they were charging but guess not heh. Charging now.

got a picture of the 30amp in the cabin, to make sure I get the exact same thing.

so, will be a while longer.

was able to install the trailer guides. Worked out well. The trailer already had slots installed for them, but someone must haveremoved them so these went right on...heh

r

 

[DennisG01]

How long did you run the engine for, checking to see if water came out the pee-hole?

Was this backed into water (or a tub) or on a hose?

If you hook up a hose to the flush connection on the side of the motor, does water go through?

 

[seasick]

I think Dennis has the right question. How do you know it's not pumping. Are you using a tub or muffs. When you put on the muffs and turn on the water, where do you see it come out?
Are you sure the water tube went into the sleeve on the mp housing when you bolted up the gearcase?

 

[RussGW270]

I removed the side “vents” and have a muff with dual outlets. I did not use a tank, agreed, they sometimes need that to draw water, but they had good pressure. If I can locate a large tank, I will be trying that next, but They should have spit some sort of water within the 1-3 minutes I ran them.

I miss my mercs....heh, my mercs were a lot easier to work on

it is not a huge issue. I wanted a real mechanic to look at them anyway, just not used to yamahas and am not sure if the amount that I was quoted vs the work is within the parameters of what I should expect. I was spoiled with the last mechanic I had and never had to pay that sort of cost heh

 

[leeccoll]

Hey Russ,

What I believe Dennis was asking you is if you tried to do a static flush i.e. hooking a garden hose up to your flush connector on the side of engine and run water through it without starting up the engine to see if the pee stream works that way?

That pee stream hose is notorious for getting clogged right where the water shoots out of the cowling. Have to clear mine every year from deposits or critters....

Lee

 

[RussGW270]

Oh, no...good idea. Was unsure if they shared the same path.

will try that in a few minutes

 

[DennisG01]

Correct to everything the guys were saying about what I was asking.

Plus... knowing that you were using muffs (which is fine)... when you first turned on the water (before starting the engine), water was squirting out all over the place (out from underneath the muffs). Then, when you started the engine, if the impeller was drawing in water properly, you should have seen a noticeable difference in the amount of water squirting out (possibly none, depending on your hose flow rate). If you did see a drop in "squirtage" then it sounds like everything is OK and the pee hole is just clogged (usually an easy fix). Another indicator is if you let it run for a while... no overtemp alarm means all is good (at least at idle with no load).

 

[wspitler]

Sometimes my engines, 2 F250s and F150 don't pee on the muffs. Don't know why, sometimes they do. Pumps work good and they always pee (after I unclog the dirt dobber clogs) in the water. No overheat at all when running. Lack of pee hole discharge is not always a good indicator.

 

[DennisG01]

Lack of pee hole discharge is not always a good indicator.

Agree - and good point.

 

[seasick]

I removed the side “vents” and have a muff with dual outlets. I did not use a tank, agreed, they sometimes need that to draw water, but they had good pressure. If I can locate a large tank, I will be trying that next, but They should have spit some sort of water within the 1-3 minutes I ran them.

I miss my mercs....heh, my mercs were a lot easier to work on

it is not a huge issue. I wanted a real mechanic to look at them anyway, just not used to yamahas and am not sure if the amount that I was quoted vs the work is within the parameters of what I should expect. I was spoiled with the last mechanic I had and never had to pay that sort of cost heh

Why did you remove the 'vents'?

 

[RussGW270]

Okay, I flushed water through the connection...

side note, that is something I like about Yamaha. The mercs did not have that, albeit I loved the switch on the motor that let me adjust the trim without climbing in and out of the dang boat over and over lol..

so, water came out the pee hole when I flushed with the connection.

so, only way to really test this is a large bucket or drop her in the water.

R

 

[RussGW270]

Why did you remove the 'vents'?

Sometimes removing them helps push more water easier through the engine, when using a hose.

Either way, I did not let the engines run long enough to reach temp, they did that when I had them in the lake last time. I am going to work on getting a tall and wide enough trash can to add water to for testing the engines. Then we will know more.

I appreciate the input, don't think I am disagreeing with you all, was just trying to type in my phone all day and get something accomplished heh. I agree the pee hole is not a great indicator, but it is usually good, at least it always was on my mercs.. heh. When I re-power one day, it may very well be mercs That being said, not ragging on yamahas...they may grow on me by then, right now.. I just want them to work.

Now, focusing on the big bucket... and why my Garmin would not freaking update the maps... just one thing after another with this boat heh.. but, will get it hammered out... eventually.

R

 

[Salmondogs]

Big Yamahas are notorious for not pumping well on the hose. In my personal experience Mercury's pump pretty well, Suzuki's and Honda's will practically blast a hole in asphalt haha. But newer big Yamahas seem to struggle. My 300's don't pump worth anything on the hose, I've tried to run f250's, same thing, even if I take the grates out. The only Yami's I've ever gotten to pump well is my father-in-laws HPDI, and anything under 90hp.

 

[RussGW270]

Yea, I am getting that impression. My goal tomorrow is to measure how tall and wide a trash can or bucket I need to submerse the lower unit. Then I will be able to tell more.

R

 

[Salmondogs]

Yea, I am getting that impression. My goal tomorrow is to measure how tall and wide a trash can or bucket I need to submerse the lower unit. Then I will be able to tell more.

R

My current crazy idea is to get a livestock water trough and add a spigot to empty it. They are more expensive than a trashcan but they are a lot sturdier and are big enough that you can fill it and trim the engine into it once filled without much hassle. I've even got an idea on how to fill it with stockpiled rainwater since that is in good supply here in the PNW haha!

 

[leeccoll]

this will work....has to be elongated so you can trim the engines down
Tractor Supply Co
I'm sure they have one or two of those in Tejas
Rubbermaid Structural Foam Stock Tanks, 100 gal. Capacity, 4242-88
Just under $90 bucks.

 

[glacierbaze]

Lee, you must have some strict HOA rules, if your boat can't even piss on your own driveway!

 

[glacierbaze]

Russ, take a piece of heavy weedeater line, hold a match to the end for a few seconds to take off the sharp edges, and use it to poke in the pee hole to see if there are any obstructions.
Sounds a lot like my last doctor visit.

 

[seasick]

The pressure and volume of water presented to the muffs makes a big difference. Not only will low flow stop the telltale from working, low flow can result in overheating. Last year I found out that when I uses a regular garden hose, all worked well but when I used one of those squiggly shrinking type of hoses, the motor would over heat.

The best approach is to measure the t-stat housing temps as the motor warms up. Use a contactless IR thermometer. That way, you can see if the tstats operate the same for both banks and tell if the motor is going to overheat before it does. These kinds of measurement are standard step in my spring commissioning routines.

 

[Legend]

Might be worth a thorough check up by a certified Yamaha tech for your peace of mind. Sounds like frustration is growing. Don't want you to take sledge to those yammis just yet