Hi - Been awhile since visiting the forum as it has been a crazy year, glad to see 09 go by. Anyway, just received the estimate from my dealer as to the spring commissioning and problems with boat/engines. Basically all OK, except the dealer states that the water pumps need replacement since it is over two years since they were replaced. The engines (Yam 225's) are 03's and never had problems and of course the pumps never replaced. Another friend received the same notice. We never had this before. Is this something new that Yamaha now recommends or is it a sign of the times. Just wondering. Thanks
Water Pump
- Thread starter dunwurkin
- Start date
Water Pumps
I have 02's and change mine every other season, if needed or not. I actually tried to get a 3rd this year because i didn't use the boat that much the past 2 seasons. The pumps were fine when i launched the boat in May, strong pressure. Second trip out lost all pressure on one motor. I then had to have the boat hauled and water pumps replaced. The fin on the bad pump was broken off. I will never go a third season again.
I have 02's and change mine every other season, if needed or not. I actually tried to get a 3rd this year because i didn't use the boat that much the past 2 seasons. The pumps were fine when i launched the boat in May, strong pressure. Second trip out lost all pressure on one motor. I then had to have the boat hauled and water pumps replaced. The fin on the bad pump was broken off. I will never go a third season again.
reelserious
Well-Known Member
I replaced mine at the end of the season on my 2000 200 HPDI's as a precaution. This was the third season (same rationale...didn't use the boat a lot last season due to a late start). Every two years is not unreasonable.
Sounds like you have been lucky if they have never been replaced since new in '03.
Sounds like you have been lucky if they have never been replaced since new in '03.
YAMAHA now states every 100hrs or year
they are just covering their but
i charge 1.5 hrs for water pump and parts
they are just covering their but
i charge 1.5 hrs for water pump and parts
Do-It-Yourself Water Pump
The guy who said he charges 1.5 hrs per engine is pretty right on. It's not a bad job at all with a helper. Pretty hard to screw it up unless you cross-thread some bolts or something like that.
The guy who said he charges 1.5 hrs per engine is pretty right on. It's not a bad job at all with a helper. Pretty hard to screw it up unless you cross-thread some bolts or something like that.
I had an '03 F225. From what I recall, the service manual stated that the impeller should be changed every 3 yrs, or 500 hrs. Something like that. I changed mine after 3 yrs. Easy job to do.
JIT, at 1.5 hours plus parts, ie, 75 for a kit, thats about 250 tops per engine? I wish you would open a shop here in New England.....I've paid 500 per engine including a qt of lower end oil at both a Grady and non-Grady shops....anyway, the reason the impellers don't go long for many years is because the rubber tends to take a set shape within the housing....so even if you didn't put a ton of hours on a motor, the compact spiral shape of a piece of hard rubber within a circle makes it take shape, thus relieving its ability to spring back against the housing and make a tight seal. So basically, its time spent in the housing that over weighs the overall hours of usage on the water......I have seen small engines like old Evinrudes on fresh water aluminum bass boats that have gone 5, 7 or even 10 years and still keep pumping....but at the marina, the most I've seen is 4 years, whether its because they needed to or said to themselves, I better do it or else....
JIT, at 1.5 hours plus parts, ie, 75 for a kit, thats about 250 tops per engine? I wish you would open a shop here in New England.....I've paid 500 per engine including a qt of lower end oil at both a Grady and non-Grady shops....anyway, the reason the impellers don't go long for many years is because the rubber tends to take a set shape within the housing....so even if you didn't put a ton of hours on a motor, the compact spiral shape of a piece of hard rubber within a circle makes it take shape, thus relieving its ability to spring back against the housing and make a tight seal. So basically, its time spent in the housing that over weighs the overall hours of usage on the water......I have seen small engines like old Evinrudes on fresh water aluminum bass boats that have gone 5, 7 or even 10 years and still keep pumping....but at the marina, the most I've seen is 4 years, whether its because they needed to or said to themselves, I better do it or else....
richie rich said:
I recently had a first hand experience with an impeller going bad due to taking a set just as richie rich described. In addition to the Grady I just sold, I also have a small aluminum boat with two motors on the back (a '94 OMC 60hp and an '01 OMC 9.9hp). About 4 or 5 yrs ago, I put new impellers in both motors. I ran the boat maybe 30 hrs that same year (after replacing the impellers). Then I bought my Grady. Well, the little boat didn't see any use over the next four years. I fired it up this year. The impeller was bad in the 60hp. It went bad because it took a "set", not because it was worn out.
I replace the water pump myself every other year now. That's between 300-350 hours. Last time I went three years and impeller broke the day after an offshore fishing trip. It's too easy to replace to take that chance again.
On another note, I had an '87 Evinrude 28HP that was on a small skiff I bought brand new and it was never changed. I sold that boat about 3 or 4 years ago and it was still going strong although I'm not sure how. It was never much of a worry since I was always close to dock with that boat.
On another note, I had an '87 Evinrude 28HP that was on a small skiff I bought brand new and it was never changed. I sold that boat about 3 or 4 years ago and it was still going strong although I'm not sure how. It was never much of a worry since I was always close to dock with that boat.
I am another one that replaces them every other year-
Worth mentioning that you should do the entire kit - not just the rubber impellar-
Also - the kit does not come with the white plastic compression piece that inserts into the metal ring - these components hold the impellar inplace and are often damaged during replacment.
They only cost a few bucks, but be sure to get them also if doing the job yourself.
Tim
Worth mentioning that you should do the entire kit - not just the rubber impellar-
Also - the kit does not come with the white plastic compression piece that inserts into the metal ring - these components hold the impellar inplace and are often damaged during replacment.
They only cost a few bucks, but be sure to get them also if doing the job yourself.
Tim
Re: Do-It-Yourself Water Pump
MY 1.5 Hrs per lower unit includes
chase all threads, cept drain and fill plugs
i use yamabond on the bolts on water pump
look at the exhaust gasket there
#14 and #15, some are one piece
this will cause an overheat
http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage ... 0,outboard
lube up
-drive shaft splines, onlt the sides NOT THE TOP!
-lower unit gear lube
-steering
shift splines
-shift cable slot
-prop shaft with new nut and cotter pin
also also do a look over the motor for any thing visual (saltwater is a MUST!)
more work
poppet on some .5, others 1hr
t stats are .5 each for first 1, .25 next
unless it is the newer 4 strokes, then 1.5for both
the original water pump will always out last the oem replacements, do not ask me why they do this, but they do!
yes the kit is also a must if you over heat
when you over heat you need to replace that seal mentioned and the thermostats and poppets
yep
the key is just get out there and use the boat!!
running in the drive way is ok for 2 strokes, 4 strokes it is really bad because of no load on the motor and you can not flash the moisture out of the hot oil!
NEW ENGLAND :shock:
Im moving south! warmer weather, im sick of cold, LOL
FL was nice to visit, but i will never move there
i'm also $80hr and travel to your boat at .50 a mile no driving time also!!!
I gove tons of free info out, but some stuff it is just to hard to explain 8)
hotajax said:
MY 1.5 Hrs per lower unit includes
chase all threads, cept drain and fill plugs
i use yamabond on the bolts on water pump
look at the exhaust gasket there
#14 and #15, some are one piece
this will cause an overheat
http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage ... 0,outboard
lube up
-drive shaft splines, onlt the sides NOT THE TOP!
-lower unit gear lube
-steering
shift splines
-shift cable slot
-prop shaft with new nut and cotter pin
also also do a look over the motor for any thing visual (saltwater is a MUST!)
more work
poppet on some .5, others 1hr
t stats are .5 each for first 1, .25 next
unless it is the newer 4 strokes, then 1.5for both
Strikezone said:
the original water pump will always out last the oem replacements, do not ask me why they do this, but they do!
fishingFINattic said:
yes the kit is also a must if you over heat
when you over heat you need to replace that seal mentioned and the thermostats and poppets
Brad1 said:
yep
the key is just get out there and use the boat!!
running in the drive way is ok for 2 strokes, 4 strokes it is really bad because of no load on the motor and you can not flash the moisture out of the hot oil!
richie rich said:
NEW ENGLAND :shock:
Im moving south! warmer weather, im sick of cold, LOL
FL was nice to visit, but i will never move there
i'm also $80hr and travel to your boat at .50 a mile no driving time also!!!
I gove tons of free info out, but some stuff it is just to hard to explain 8)