Weight Distribution Hitch

[Meanwhile]

I'm curious if anyone uses a WDH on a heavier boat. I tow my Marlin on a triple axle aluminum trailer only twice a year. The road over the coast range is prone to slides so the roadbed has frequent repairs, making for a roller coaster ride.

While looking at hitches for a new travel trailer I was thinking of adding an attachment on the single tongue trailer that would allow use of the same WDH as I'll buy for the travel trailer. It will require moving the electric/hydraulic brake pump, perhaps to a raised platform.

So anyone use a WDH?

Tow vehicle: Dodge 1 ton crew cab diesel.

 

[family affair]

I don't use one, but if you do make sure your trailer is designed for that type of load. Most are not.

 

[magicalbill]

I have no experience towing with a travel trailer, so I'm staying out of that.

I checked my figures to make sure I'm giving you accurate info.

I also have a 1-ton Dodge dually, circa 2007. I don't know the year of your vehicle, but, believe it or not, mine came equipped from the factory with a Class III 5000 Capacity hitch assembly.

This is beyond preposterous. You know and I know our trucks will haul over double that, yet it came from the factory that way. I can only guess that since it's an '07, it was built in the Recession and Dodge was cutting corners.

I'd be willing to bet your Dodge has the same Class III hitch. If it does, it's vital that when you change it out for a Weight Distributing Hitch, you size it correctly for your Marlin & tri-axle trailer. Your Marlin, trailer, fuel & onboard gear will come in between 13-14K, maybe a tad over 14. This translates to needing a Class V hitch, which should be rated at 17K & 2550 lb tongue weight. You'll also need a correspondingly heavy-duty 2- 5/16th hitch ball; they rate them to 17K for certain, and likely 18K.

Your only as safe as your weakest link in the Chain. Obviously, you've been pulling with your current hitch assembly and been ok, but since your wanting to swap out, why not up the grade and make it safe?

There is the possibility your hitch assembly is sized correctly for your Marlin, but I don't trust Dodge. I could go on-and-on about why.

Good Luck In Any Case.

Magic.

 

[Lt.Mike]

My boat isn’t big enough to use it but my camper has a weight distributing hitch. Huge improvement in trailering as it pretty much eliminates that rocking horse action.
If your boats big enough to do that on the road I’d get the WD hitch.

 

[Meanwhile]

My truck has a class 4 hitch. You get that with the tow package, at least in a 2004.5 truck (midyear model change).

I'll add a class 5 hitch near May when I pull her out of the shop. I'm buying a heavy WDH so I can use the same system, with the adaptor for the pole trailer hitch (single hitch v. A frame style).

Probably use this type, no chains.

https://www.etrailer.com/p-RP58393.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Curt/C17501.html

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

You would need to have electric over hydraulic brakes for using a WD hitch. it stiffens the connection between the tow vehicle and trailer . your rv trailer has electric brakes where most boat trailers are hydraulic and the piston in the master cylinder is a surge activated system . this means the trailer must be able to move forward against the surge brake piston. I suspect you knew this . I use a WD hitch for my camper .

 

[Meanwhile]

There are WDH that can be used with surge brakes.

I have E/H brakes.

 

[Ridge Runner]

I ja

My truck has a class 4 hitch. You get that with the tow package, at least in a 2004.5 truck (midyear model change).

I'll add a class 5 hitch near May when I pull her out of the shop. I'm buying a heavy WDH so I can use the same system, with the adaptor for the pole trailer hitch (single hitch v. A frame style).

Probably use this type, no chains.

https://www.etrailer.com/p-RP58393.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Curt/C17501.html

I have that hitch for my heavier trailers. I don't see how it will work, 3 reasons. Single beam layout of boat trailers is not compatible. The friction of the sway bars will inhibit your surge breaks. Finally, I have seen these things break the frame on trailers. I would never put that stress on an aluminum boat trailer...

 

[doug228]

It really is annoying that boat trailer don't cater to WDHs better. I tow my 7000lb travel trailer with WD with my half ton with no issues (11000lb WDH towing capacity). Problem is, the non WDH rating of my truck is only 5500 lbs....my seafarer scaled at 6450lbs...

It sure towed nicer than my travel trailer, even with out WDH. I've been looking into WDH but gave up as ill likely be upgrading trucks so I can haul a camper and the boat.

I can see all the obvious challenges, luckily most of use with boats this size are electric/hydraulic brakes. Just need a beefier trailer tongue...

 

[Harpoon]

I also tow a Grady Marlin (F250) on triple axle aluminum. I find it to be very stable and have very little wobble. 3 axles of surge brakes really help stop it well also.
I don't see any need for the WDH.

 

[RussGW270]

Well, I have to agree with folks here. While you CAN use a WD hitch, very few work well/easy with a reverse solenoid and the reach of the WD hitch arms are barely able to make it past the solenoid and latch to the frame of the trailer enough to support solid turning. Now, I installed an e10,000 and it appeared to work, but was just too much a pain in the back end.

That being said, I think... for me.. the only real way to distribute the weight well would be to have a professional possibly manufacture something custom or at the very least, set it up right and verify with scales etc.

Till then, my brakes stop well so, left it off after the initial trial.

R

 

[family affair]

It really is annoying that boat trailer don't cater to WDHs better. I tow my 7000lb travel trailer with WD with my half ton with no issues (11000lb WDH towing capacity). Problem is, the non WDH rating of my truck is only 5500 lbs....my seafarer scaled at 6450lbs...

It sure towed nicer than my travel trailer, even with out WDH. I've been looking into WDH but gave up as ill likely be upgrading trucks so I can haul a camper and the boat.

I can see all the obvious challenges, luckily most of use with boats this size are electric/hydraulic brakes. Just need a beefier trailer tongue...

Most truck manufacturers derive their numbers for tongue weight based on SAE J2807. The numbers for tongue weight with a non wdh are often extremely conservative as a CYA for the manufacturer. Let's face it, most guys pulling a trailer have no idea what their tongue weight is or bother to look up how to properly set up a trailer, so truck manufacturers create these really conservative numbers to protect the consumer and themselves. Because tongue weight can vary so dramatically with TT's due to loading and the profiles of the trailer make them susceptible to sway, a WDH is a must. Most boats don't have the same issues. Long story short, target 5-7% tongue weight with a healthy boat trailer and forgo the PIA of a WDH.

 

[doug228]

Most truck manufacturers derive their numbers for tongue weight based on SAE J2807. The numbers for tongue weight with a non wdh are often extremely conservative as a CYA for the manufacturer. Let's face it, most guys pulling a trailer have no idea what their tongue weight is or bother to look up how to properly set up a trailer, so truck manufacturers create these really conservative numbers to protect the consumer and themselves. Because tongue weight can vary so dramatically with TT's due to loading and the profiles of the trailer make them susceptible to sway, a WDH is a must. Most boats don't have the same issues. Long story short, target 5-7% tongue weight with a healthy boat trailer and forgo the PIA of a WDH.

Thats been the plan so far...it tows great and i dont plan on any cross country tours. Need to dial in the tongue weight though. When i picked it up there was none...scary, no sure how the last guy enjoyed that. I moved the jack post forward a few inches and back down the nearest boat launch and winched it up. I really should pony up and buy a tongue scale...i have 4 or 5 trailers i tow and while none have problems i like know things are dialed right in.

 

[Meanwhile]

First step, get rid of surge brakes, go to E/H brakes.

Second step, know the actual weights involved.

Then make an informed decision.

 

[Meanwhile]

I ja

I have that hitch for my heavier trailers. I don't see how it will work, 3 reasons. Single beam layout of boat trailers is not compatible. The friction of the sway bars will inhibit your surge breaks. Finally, I have seen these things break the frame on trailers. I would never put that stress on an aluminum boat trailer...

I'd be curious on any details of the aluminum trailers breaking due to the use of WDH.

Of course mine has E/H brakes, but they claim hitches will work with those surge brakes for those that risk having them.

And of course adaptors are required for single pole trailers.

I went with the Equalizer hitch for the travel trailer. I'll install it this weekend so I can compare the 50 mile tow before to after. IF it makes the front end of the diesel not as light and takes out some of the bounces crossing RR tracks I'll try one on the boat using the Equalizer adaptor.

What amazes me is the high torque listed for the ball. I had no idea. It requires 430 ft lbs. which is about a 4.5' torque wrench.

 

[doug228]

Nah, 41 inches is plenty of torque wrench for 430 ftbs. Its not a suprise its a 1" thread and 430 is a pretty standard torque for a grade 5 1" bolt.

Curious to see how your comparison goes .

 

[Meanwhile]

I towed the 36' travel trailer to the coast and back with the Equalizer WDH. What a difference. Night and day. So much better control with the WDH. Easy to put on and take off.

Here is a post made on the discussion of WDH off the Washington forum on Bloody Decks:
" I put weight distribution by Equal-I-Zer on my trailer. I'm right 12k trailer weight loaded. Tow vehicle is a crewcab F350. I've towed without the weight distribution for one summer: 750 miles when I picked up the boat from Haines to Anchorage, then the rest of the summer between Anchorage and Whittier or Seward. Lots of bumps and whoopdies on those roads. Then I installed the weight distribution and towed it down the Cassiar when I moved back here, and have since had it up and down Vancouver Island to Winter Harbour about 8 times. WAY better ride and comfort with the weight distribution; I can't recommend it highly enough. Make some measurements and have your builder leave room for a "pole tongue adapter" from which to hang the spring bars.

I had the pole tongue adapter made because I didn't like the commercially available ones."