Anyone know the weight (wighout engine) of a 1985 Fisherman 204? I am looking at trailers and I would like to know how much the boat weighs!
Thanks!
Rod
Thanks!
Rod
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Weight of Fisherman 204
- Thread starter gradyrod
- Start date
CJBROWN
GreatGrady Captain
Get a 6000 gvw aluminum trailer, tandem 14's, disc brakes.
Can't be that much different that my 208.
Your total towing weight will be about 4200-4500lbs depending on how much fuel.
Can't be that much different that my 208.
Your total towing weight will be about 4200-4500lbs depending on how much fuel.
not THAT much!!
Thanks for the fast comeback--however, I have a center console boat which I believe is not nearly as heavy as your model.
Anyone have a cc fisherman 204 with a known weight?
Rod
Thanks for the fast comeback--however, I have a center console boat which I believe is not nearly as heavy as your model.
Anyone have a cc fisherman 204 with a known weight?
Rod
GW VOYAGER
GreatGrady Captain
I would still opt. for the heavy duty trailer. Better to have to much than to little when pulling your investment. Just my opinion.
GW VOYAGER
GreatGrady Captain
The boat weighs 1995lbs.
Go to Grady White click catalogs click 1985 and scroll down to your Grady
and you can get all the info you need.
Go to Grady White click catalogs click 1985 and scroll down to your Grady
and you can get all the info you need.
CJBROWN
GreatGrady Captain
Yes, I'm surprised, indeed it's a thousand pounds less, hull only.
Don't forget to add for motor, oil, gear, batteries, fuel, at least another thousand pounds, plus the trailer. The GVW less the carrying weight is the trailer weight - the aluminum trailers are light!
I have a Roadking RWSS-19-21TB: http://roadkingtrailers.com/RWSS.htm
It has the tandem 14" wheels, with a 6K lb gvw.
The next size down with tandem axles has the 13" wheels, drops the GVW to 5400 which would be fine, but I would rather have 15" wheels under mine, the 14's are minimum, I just don't like the smaller wheels under a boat trailer. You would probably save $200 is all, if that. It's like splitting hairs. Trailer tires aren't all that great anyway, and the smaller wheels spin faster. I've already replace all four tires on mine, they are the Carlysle SportTracs. All of those trailers have the same frame and springs in similar gross weights, the higher capacities come with the bigger tires.
A single axle would also work, I just like a tandem under these boats. The RWSS-19-21B has the 15" wheels, single axle, with a 4300gvw and net carrying of 3550. That would probably work for your boat as well, and cost several hundred less.
Other brands may vary. :wink:
If you have the bucks to splurge, go for one with torsion axles and Kodiak brakes. The Tie-Down stuff is just so-so. And the leaf springs rust out, but they're cheap. I've got 3 years on mine and the springs are pretty rusty. I figure within a year or two will need to replace the springs and the brakes. That's about $600. And mine gets rinsed religiously after dunking in the saltwater.
The model I have should come in well under $4000 all in.
Trailers are like trucks, consider leaving a 20% carrying margin. Running them right at capacity leaves nothing to spare as it ages. They can and do break if you don't keep a really close eye on everything.
The side guides and bunks work great. I have yet to see a ramp that a launch or retrieve took longer than a minute or two. I'm usually in or out and gone while everyone is still dinking around trying to launch or load their boat.
Don't forget to add for motor, oil, gear, batteries, fuel, at least another thousand pounds, plus the trailer. The GVW less the carrying weight is the trailer weight - the aluminum trailers are light!
I have a Roadking RWSS-19-21TB: http://roadkingtrailers.com/RWSS.htm
It has the tandem 14" wheels, with a 6K lb gvw.
The next size down with tandem axles has the 13" wheels, drops the GVW to 5400 which would be fine, but I would rather have 15" wheels under mine, the 14's are minimum, I just don't like the smaller wheels under a boat trailer. You would probably save $200 is all, if that. It's like splitting hairs. Trailer tires aren't all that great anyway, and the smaller wheels spin faster. I've already replace all four tires on mine, they are the Carlysle SportTracs. All of those trailers have the same frame and springs in similar gross weights, the higher capacities come with the bigger tires.
A single axle would also work, I just like a tandem under these boats. The RWSS-19-21B has the 15" wheels, single axle, with a 4300gvw and net carrying of 3550. That would probably work for your boat as well, and cost several hundred less.
Other brands may vary. :wink:
If you have the bucks to splurge, go for one with torsion axles and Kodiak brakes. The Tie-Down stuff is just so-so. And the leaf springs rust out, but they're cheap. I've got 3 years on mine and the springs are pretty rusty. I figure within a year or two will need to replace the springs and the brakes. That's about $600. And mine gets rinsed religiously after dunking in the saltwater.
The model I have should come in well under $4000 all in.
Trailers are like trucks, consider leaving a 20% carrying margin. Running them right at capacity leaves nothing to spare as it ages. They can and do break if you don't keep a really close eye on everything.
The side guides and bunks work great. I have yet to see a ramp that a launch or retrieve took longer than a minute or two. I'm usually in or out and gone while everyone is still dinking around trying to launch or load their boat.
winter storage on the trailer
Guys-
I perhaps should have stated that the reason I am looking for the weight is that a buddy has given me a traier, a Load Rite 2700 pounder. The only use for it would be to haul the boat, and bring it exactly one mile to be stored for the winter. We tested the trailer and the boat seemed to fit well. We hauled the boat into the lot and then relaunched (and I took the boat back to my marina.)
I figure the price is right and I won't be going far, so I just wanted to know the weight of the boat to see if it exceeded the 2700 pounds. Looks like I will just squeak in, since the boat weighs about 2000 and the motor weighs about 350, gas tank is empty and nothing else is on board.
Is it smart to block the stern area of the boat while sitting on the trailer for the winter? The boat does overhang the trailer by a few feet, so I figured I could block the rear corners, or the keel at the transom.
Thanks again all for great info!
Rod
1985 Fisherman 204
1997 Johnson 175 Oceanrunner
Guys-
I perhaps should have stated that the reason I am looking for the weight is that a buddy has given me a traier, a Load Rite 2700 pounder. The only use for it would be to haul the boat, and bring it exactly one mile to be stored for the winter. We tested the trailer and the boat seemed to fit well. We hauled the boat into the lot and then relaunched (and I took the boat back to my marina.)
I figure the price is right and I won't be going far, so I just wanted to know the weight of the boat to see if it exceeded the 2700 pounds. Looks like I will just squeak in, since the boat weighs about 2000 and the motor weighs about 350, gas tank is empty and nothing else is on board.
Is it smart to block the stern area of the boat while sitting on the trailer for the winter? The boat does overhang the trailer by a few feet, so I figured I could block the rear corners, or the keel at the transom.
Thanks again all for great info!
Rod
1985 Fisherman 204
1997 Johnson 175 Oceanrunner
For short haul, the trailer is OK but probably a little undersized. You didn't say if it was bunk or roller. If roller, it is important to make sure you have enough rollers. 20 is minimum for that boat, more are better. Although the Grady hulls are strong, you risk hull dents and damage if there are too few rollers ( and make sure that are all in contact with the hull).
As to blocking, some block the frame of the trailer to take the weight off of the tires, some like me don't. I do block the tongue ( I have seen too many jacks freeze up or break when called on in the spring) and I check the boat and trailer frequently when in storage.
As to blocking, some block the frame of the trailer to take the weight off of the tires, some like me don't. I do block the tongue ( I have seen too many jacks freeze up or break when called on in the spring) and I check the boat and trailer frequently when in storage.
Bunk type
Thanks Seasick for the info! I know it is a little undersized, but I feel for winter storage and a very short distance to the yard it will be ok.
Today I bought new keel rollers and shafts, new swivel jack, and new bunk plates. I am confident trailer will work for me.
Yes, I plan to block the tongue of the trailer on a cinder block and this should be fine for the winter!
Rod
Thanks Seasick for the info! I know it is a little undersized, but I feel for winter storage and a very short distance to the yard it will be ok.
Today I bought new keel rollers and shafts, new swivel jack, and new bunk plates. I am confident trailer will work for me.
Yes, I plan to block the tongue of the trailer on a cinder block and this should be fine for the winter!
Rod
gw204
Well-Known Member
If your case I would probably go ahead and convert that trailer to bunks. Most bunk trailer manufacturers set their trailers up so the bunks extend well past the end of the frame to support the aft portion of the hull. You could easily do the same and then move the axle back to get the proper tongue weight.
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
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No one mentioned brakes? Of did I miss it?
Drive slow the distance w/o trailer brakes, don't even think of highways, and very slow on wet ground rainy day.
.
Also, if you are going to block the stern, why not just do a three point block? Port and starboard stern, and under forward keel ?
Then you can roll the trailer out from the boat hull in the spring and apply bottom paint, a lesson we all learn after trying to paint it on a trailer.
Drop the trailer tongue to the ground to raise the stern, block it, then floor jack the forward keel up high - set for proper drainage.
Drive slow the distance w/o trailer brakes, don't even think of highways, and very slow on wet ground rainy day.
.
Also, if you are going to block the stern, why not just do a three point block? Port and starboard stern, and under forward keel ?
Then you can roll the trailer out from the boat hull in the spring and apply bottom paint, a lesson we all learn after trying to paint it on a trailer.
Drop the trailer tongue to the ground to raise the stern, block it, then floor jack the forward keel up high - set for proper drainage.
What a great idea!
Bob-
Thanks for that tip on blocking and painting! I figured I'd have to paint the boat sitting on the trailer the best I could. Your method sounds great!
Question: How do you paint the areas that are blocked ? Do you have to reblock using a different area of the bottom?
Rod
Bob-
Thanks for that tip on blocking and painting! I figured I'd have to paint the boat sitting on the trailer the best I could. Your method sounds great!
Question: How do you paint the areas that are blocked ? Do you have to reblock using a different area of the bottom?
Rod
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS
GreatGrady Captain
Re: What a great idea!
At the beggining of the next season when you slide the trailer under the boat, you unblock the boat and paint those three spots.
Ditto on the brakes, to me IS a must.
gradyrod said:Bob-
Thanks for that tip on blocking and painting! I figured I'd have to paint the boat sitting on the trailer the best I could. Your method sounds great!
Question: How do you paint the areas that are blocked ? Do you have to reblock using a different area of the bottom?
Rod
At the beggining of the next season when you slide the trailer under the boat, you unblock the boat and paint those three spots.
Ditto on the brakes, to me IS a must.
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
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NEM covered it -
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More tips -
You can use Depot/Lowes store concrete blocks and some wood, no need for fancy screw jacks to block the boat. Start with two blocks wide at the base. I'd stay with two blocks wide until last block, then I would go single - or you can stay double. Shim the blocks so they make good flush contact across face, I bought a bundle of cedar siding years ago for this purpose, also at the Depot.
Make sure te blocks don't wobble when you place them, they will crack if not firmly placed.
Because the trailer has axle(s) and cross members, when you go to slide the trailer out, you will find the forward keel block to interfere, so just need to rejack to reposition the keel block after the interference, do this until the trailer slides out all the way, same going back. I jack the boat high enough so I can push/pull the trailer by hand.
If you have the boat out now or very soon, and are using multiseason paint, you can save time in the spring by painting it now, just do it before the temp drops below 50 deg F. overnight.
A buddy of mine does on his Silverton since he gets a discount for early launch, and its too cold and or damp in early spring to paint it. No humidity out there now.
I used to trailer my own 204C for the annual marina moves.
------------------------------------------------------
More tips -
You can use Depot/Lowes store concrete blocks and some wood, no need for fancy screw jacks to block the boat. Start with two blocks wide at the base. I'd stay with two blocks wide until last block, then I would go single - or you can stay double. Shim the blocks so they make good flush contact across face, I bought a bundle of cedar siding years ago for this purpose, also at the Depot.
Make sure te blocks don't wobble when you place them, they will crack if not firmly placed.
Because the trailer has axle(s) and cross members, when you go to slide the trailer out, you will find the forward keel block to interfere, so just need to rejack to reposition the keel block after the interference, do this until the trailer slides out all the way, same going back. I jack the boat high enough so I can push/pull the trailer by hand.
If you have the boat out now or very soon, and are using multiseason paint, you can save time in the spring by painting it now, just do it before the temp drops below 50 deg F. overnight.
A buddy of mine does on his Silverton since he gets a discount for early launch, and its too cold and or damp in early spring to paint it. No humidity out there now.
I used to trailer my own 204C for the annual marina moves.