Well, that was a burst bubble....

[RussGW270]

Just got the quote for the fiberglass work on the boat.

I have a few items that need to be removed (pictures attached). They tell me that to drill it all out, they have to remove the windshield to get it all done...


I asked them to remove about 6 leftover items that need the screws drilled out and holes patched. I also asked them to repair a few nicks in the fiberglass.

I asked them to remove all the adhesive as well on the hull.. that is not included in the bid...


$4,522 total.

freaking unreal.. small holes and they have to remove all that. I get it... should be professional work, and I was expecting like 2500-ish.. but 2k more..

not sure it is worth doing right now. I think I would rather patch that crap, see where the new top bolts in, and then get them fixed, but I keep thinking they will charge me more saying they have to remove the dang top....heh

I also told them they juct cannot remove those stickers... They have to save them. I cannot replace them. Waiting to hear back and then have to decide whether to pay it.. heh

Thoughts?

R

 

[Parthery]

If it were me, I'd have the holes / scratches where the gelcoat is down to the glass fixed.

Anywhere else - I'd remove the hardware, clean it up, reinstall the screw with a finishing washer and go boating.

As much as we all want our boats to look like KY Grady's 228, patching extra screws from long removed hardware is more of a winter project for me....save your money. $4500 is ridiculous.

And there won't be anyway to save that graphic....if you remove it, plan on replacing it.

 

[RussGW270]

they are going to have to drill those screws out as they will not come out. Also, they may be right where the new hard top is going to go.

I was "okay" with the idea of $2,500-ish.. would have balked ad been "okay" if it hit $3,000.....just need to figure out if I am okay with the $4,500.

I also told them I want/need the old glue done while they have it.

Sucks about the stickers....freaking hate that they cannot be bought any longer.

Wait.. you may be on to something.....

Remove the parts.. seal them with some ... what.. 4200? clean them up, seal them with something that can get me through till winter. Focus on the transom, the cuts and nicks and after the top goes on, I ..hrm.. there's the "rub".... what will they jack up if I add the top?

Need to ask them.

R

 

[Ky Grady]

Thanks Parthery, but mine is far from a show piece, but I will say, it's far better than it was when I got her.

I had fiberglass shock also when I wanted all my blemishes fixed. I chose to do the worst and leave the rest. Pulpit was all chipped up and the hardtop was full of dead antennas and and unused mounts. Striped the top of all the trash and had holes filled, pulpit fixed also. Biggest repair I had done was fill holes and blend the gelcoat the best they could from me removing the overboard discharge and vent from the toilet plumbing. Cuddy always smelled like a toilet so I gutted it. Much better. 5 gal bucket is easier and it's for the occasional female, guys hang it over.

 

[RussGW270]

Yea, just thought about it. If the new hard top goes on, right next to those pre-existing holes... the top could get ripped right off.

No way around fixing them.

I can do the hull cleaning myself when it gets back....the important part will be fixing the body parts.

Just have to sell the wife on this.

R

 

[RussGW270]

So.. my justification is:

1 - I was going to hook up the 3-ton a/c unit in my workshop. I expected to spend $500 on that... not doing it yet.. heh
2 - I expected to spend like $1000 on the engines... will put that off a few months since I found out they were done less than 20 hours ago (PO)
3 - I was going to buy a 8" Garmin chartplotter for the radar.. call it easy $1,000

See? I am working my excuse for my wife.... lol..

Let's see.. we have a huge garage sale in a week and a half.. we could make $300 easy

The cost of repairing the hard top and damage from when it is ripped off would be well over $6,000 if we do not do this repair..

Yea, that one will get 'r dun.. lol

R

 

[2 Little Time]

I bought new hull side decals for our Express 33 from Discontinue Decals recently. They look good but are flat vinyl. This is a good approach for those decals that are no longer available from Grady or as OEM old stock.

 

[RussGW270]

Yea, just do not make the 270 ones, but will come up with something later. Hull adds value, not a sticker. Just means a few other aspects have to wait. Was going to add the teak vinyl flooring to the cabin, will wait on all that. Not a huge deal, just is what it is heh.

 

[Fishtales]

If it were me, I'd have the holes / scratches where the gelcoat is down to the glass fixed.

Anywhere else - I'd remove the hardware, clean it up, reinstall the screw with a finishing washer and go boating.

As much as we all want our boats to look like KY Grady's 228, patching extra screws from long removed hardware is more of a winter project for me....save your money. $4500 is ridiculous.

And there won't be anyway to save that graphic....if you remove it, plan on replacing it.

I'm with him. First of all, you can't screw it up. Worse case you bring him in after trying and pay the same. It is a boat. It will get used and scratched occasionally. Use it, learn it and when you have time patch it up. Regardless, install the top first and do all the glass work (unless it needs to be done before the top goes on - which should be almost nothing) last. My 2 pennies.

 

[RussGW270]

Guys, the radar arch and bimini are where the hard top will be installed. If I do not patch those holes right, the hard top I paid over twice that for, could get ripped off the hull.
My smartest move is to patch the holes so the top has a secure mounting structure.

Not fun, but the repairs while they suck, outweigh the cost.

Would rather not pay it, but all it means is I put off a few other things for a few months, heh

 

[Parthery]

Your hardtop won't get ripped off unless you hit something. Proper installation will include aluminum backing plates behind the fiberglass. Washers and locking nuts spread the load.

If your installer isn't using backing plates, find someone else.

 

[RussGW270]

Well, the installer is me..soo...lol.

The hard top is ordered from wmw marine. They are making it and shipping it to my home. Even with backing plates, if the fiberglass has holes in it from a previous installation of whatever, it is not as strong as if it was a solid wall or hull.

Either way, already told them to repair it and the shell shock has passed heh. All it means is I pay off the price difference and then buy the Magma grill and have the a/c installed in the workshop, not a huge deal.

I had also planned to remove the sticker residue myself anyway, so, again, not a huge deal, but I will feel better once the added cost is paid off.

Russ

 

[Parthery]

In that case, don't fire yourself

 

[RussGW270]

Lol! Anen, brotha!

 

[trapper]

Russ, Pick a hole any hole. maybe one that is not too obvious and do your best to fix.... fill, sand, gelcoat sand out and polish. With a little time and effort you will now find, not only has this become YOUR boat but you can show off your new skill set on the site. We love DIY"s Cheers, trapper

 

[RussGW270]

I have way too many projects right now to take this one on. I am not worried about the cost, just was not expecting it. Throws my plans off a tad for other things, but just means I can focus on the other stuff.

I’ll work on the other issues with the boat, but leave this to those guys for now.

 

[ocnslr]

Your hardtop won't get ripped off unless you hit something. Proper installation will include aluminum backing plates behind the fiberglass. Washers and locking nuts spread the load.

If your installer isn't using backing plates, find someone else.

THIS ^^^^

I know you want it to look perfect, but that is just far too much $$$ for appearance. IMHO.

 

[RussGW270]

First off, this is not about looking perfect. I appreciate the advice, but I am not a noob at this either. I looked at where the frame for the top will mount to the boat and it will be in close proximity to the same areas as the current parts.

As such, if we drill holes in an area that already has holes, then the structural needs, even with a backer plate, will not be as strong as if it were repaired first.

So, I may not be following the decisions you all would follow, but I am pretty sure I am doing something good for the boat and I can guarantee that making these repairs is not based upon looks, otherwise I would have told them not to remove the stickers.
Not trying to offend anyone, but if adding the framework of the top to a cockpit with a dozen pre-existing holes was harmless, I am pretty sure GW would have drilled them and said, “pick whatever holes ya like” heh.

I am taking the path I feel is best. Some may take a different one, but neither is wrong.

Correction: MY way is right...yours is wrong....lol....joking.

Russ

 

[ltid8732]

First off find a new fiberglass man. I am having the sliding side windows and the two front cabin windows removed and glassed in and I am in the 2k range for the work, i had 1 quote of 3500 both places highly recommended . I would recommend shopping around, there has to be a better deal. you will feel better in the long run knowing it is done right the first time

 

[RussGW270]

I appreciate it guys, but just called everyone around me and there is nothing. I have shopped around. Nothing else around here worth going to.