What bottom paint are you using this year

[NiceBass 272]

This will be my first season with my new to me 1999 272. My previous boat was a 230 Mako stored on stands so it was very easy to paint. I sued cheap ablative from west marine which was often hit or miss still had some growth and barnacle development. The boat is on a mooring where there is not a lot of water flown and lots of algae.

So what paint are folks using looking for a more reliable paint and my second question is for those of you with bunk trailers do you paint under the bunks if so how

Thanks.

 

[DennisG01]

I use Hydrocoat Eco so that I can also use it on the engine bracket. It stays in the water (Maine) for about 5 to 6 months. Jack the boat up off the trailer to reach under the bunks.

However, the best thing you can do is to NOT make your choice based on any of our recommendations. You need to find out what works best for YOUR area. Check with experienced locals.

 

[NiceBass 272]

I use Hydrocoat Eco so that I can also use it on the engine bracket. It stays in the water (Maine) for about 5 to 6 months. Jack the boat up off the trailer to reach under the bunks.

However, the best thing you can do is to NOT make your choice based on any of our recommendations. You need to find out what works best for YOUR area. Check with experienced locals.

Thanks for the info will check it out I am out of Falmouth on the Cape and in the water too for 5-6 months. Jacking up the boat seems like a process especially a 272 sailfish

 

[DennisG01]

Jacking up the boat seems like a process especially a 272 sailfish

Nah, it's not that bad. Some idea as jacking up a smaller boat. A 27-footer isn't all that big that you would need to do anything different.

 

[seasick]

I use Pettit Hydrocoat, not the ECO and not SR, just Hydrocoat. I have used it for 5 years or more. It can not be used on metal like the engine.
Two things to note:
It needs to be stirred a lot and for a decent amount of time, at least 4 minutes, use a paddle with a drill and also stir while using. Use a roller ( not foam) with a low nap, 1/4 or 3/16 inch) and do not apply it two thick. Two coats minimum for the hull and I apply 3 coats on the water line.

 

[SkunkBoat]

This recent thread has a lot of info Bottom Paint Questions
Some info on jacking the boat. You'd be surprised how easy with jack stands.

I've been using West Marine CPP ablative (made by Pettit). Its a 24% copper content.
I'm right at the inlet and the barnacles are tough. I paint a coat every year. I'm going to try West Marine PCA this time. Its 47.5% copper. I'm going to see if it is worth the extra $100 /gallon. i hope to catch the sale on that.
I use Trilux33 spray on the outboard bracket and trim housing that is below the water line. DO NOT spray the zinc anode.

 

[drbatts]

I have been using just the regular hydrocoat for the last 8 or so seasons. works well for me. I do a touch up and the waterline every year.

 

[seasick]

This recent thread has a lot of info Bottom Paint Questions
Some info on jacking the boat. You'd be surprised how easy with jack stands.

I've been using West Marine CPP ablative (made by Pettit). Its a 24% copper content.
I'm right at the inlet and the barnacles are tough. I paint a coat every year. I'm going to try West Marine PCA this time. Its 47.5% copper. I'm going to see if it is worth the extra $100 /gallon. i hope to catch the sale on that.
I use Trilux33 spray on the outboard bracket and trim housing that is below the water line. DO NOT spray the zinc anode.

Did you use the clear Trilux aerosol? That stuff never worked for me. I might try the Pettit HRT ECO spray this year on one of the boats ( it won't match the motor color either).
On my older Yami motor , I have been using gray alumacoat. It slows barnacle growth but I still get them. They are a bit easier to scrape off. It doesn't match the lower unit but I only spray the mounting bracket from the anode to an inch or so above the water line. For me that works much better than the Trilux33. Maybe I just need to apply more coats of Trilux.
Interesting fact is that Pettit recommends that you use a whole can of the HRT per motor.

Update after brain fog: The HRT spray comes in black too and my other boat has black motors! It took hours for that to dawn on me

 

[Legend]

I have been using Hyrdocoat for many years now and have very little growth after 6 months in the water. Its water based, goes on easy and I find we don't get the build up we used get with the albative paints. Clean up is easy since it is water based. I'm in Mass on the South Shore.

 

[rmatt]

I have also used Hydrocoat for years. No issues.

 

[Fishtales]

Hyrdocoat.

 

[sailUSVI]

What if you have never had any bottom paint applied...what are the pros and cons?

 

[Byram]

Hydrocoat

 

[seasick]

What if you have never had any bottom paint applied...what are the pros and cons?

Pros and cons are simple:
If your boat will stay in the water for extended periods of time and depending on what waters it is in, it will develop growth
Barnacles and the like can be a major task to remove and removal can result in damage to the fiberglass.
Bottom pain requires regular maintenance every season , sometimes you may get two seasons.

For boating waters areas where bottom paint is not the norm, bottom paint may negatively affect the resale value.

So if you operate in an area or a way where growth will be a problem , you probably need bottom paint.
If you operate in a way or area that doesn't require bottom paint, don't paint. That included areas where growth could be an issue but the boat is not in the water for extended periods as is the case with daily launching and hauling, lifts at the dock, etc.
The first paint job is labor intensive since the hull may need dewaxing as well as sanding and barrier coat. ( annual painting is also labor intensive)
Bottom painting can be expensive. Paints range from about $60 per gallon to almost $400 per gallon. Labor varies depending on what has to be done

Once you bottom paint it is very difficult if not impossible to go back to an unpainted hull

 

[sailUSVI]

Excellent info, thank you!

I’ll be tied up at my slip in south Portland, Maine for 5 months or so every summer. The last ( bigger) boat we had there would grow some barnacles and quite a bit of underwater grass as I call it. It did have an ablative bottom paint on it and reapplied every couple years.

I just hated the thought of applying bottom paint to a hull that’s never been painted and is in excellent condition

 

[DennisG01]

Excellent info, thank you!

I’ll be tied up at my slip in south Portland, Maine for 5 months or so every summer. The last ( bigger) boat we had there would grow some barnacles and quite a bit of underwater grass as I call it. It did have an ablative bottom paint on it and reapplied every couple years.

Even with bottom paint, it's possible to still get some growth - especially if the boat just sits. The solution? Go boating, more!

 

[PointedRose]

Trinidad SR is known as the best in SF. My dad is not as picky at his cottage on cape cod and will use whatever west marine brand.

not too difficult to Jack the boat up a little on the trailer to get under the bunks but maybe do some good YouTube research before risking your rig!

It works with a roller trailer, but what my dad has done over the years is tie off the stern of the boat to a tree, and pull the trailer forward about 3 inches. The boat rolls a little, stays balanced on the trailer, and can get paint to where the rollers usually sit.

agree with others that you need to shake/mix/stir the paint for several minutes before applying. It clumps in the bottom of the can.

Pettit | Trinidad SR

 

[seasick]

Trinidad SR is known as the best in SF. My dad is not as picky at his cottage on cape cod and will use whatever west marine brand.

not too difficult to Jack the boat up a little on the trailer to get under the bunks but maybe do some good YouTube research before risking your rig!

It works with a roller trailer, but what my dad has done over the years is tie off the stern of the boat to a tree, and pull the trailer forward about 3 inches. The boat rolls a little, stays balanced on the trailer, and can get paint to where the rollers usually sit.

agree with others that you need to shake/mix/stir the paint for several minutes before applying. It clumps in the bottom of the can.

Pettit | Trinidad SR

I used to also pull my boat forward by tying off the stern to a telephone pole. I do it differently now but you need a boat stand or two. Using a bottle or floor jack, jack up the trailer frame near the aft of the hull. When the jack maxes out, put a boat stand under the aft part of the hull and snug it up. Do the same for the other side.
Now add some blocking under the jack and lift again, tighten up the boat stand, release the jack and do the other side. Repeat as necessary until the rollers are far enough below the hull to allow you to sand or paint. I know some folks who actually take the load off of the rollers and then remove the roller assemblies. That is a bit more work ( loosen the bolts first to make sure you can remove them) but it offers a lot more room to work. The same approach works for the front; jack the trailer frame, use a keel stand or cribbing, repeat the lifts as neccessary.

 

[Recoil Rob]

For years I used Hydrocoat on my Amesbury 16 dory. This will be the first year I am splashing my 2004 180 Sportsman which had never been painted. I painted it last fall, prep, 2 coats Pettit Protect barrier coat, one coat of green Hydrocoat I had leftover from the dory, and the 2 coats of Hydrocoat SR. I'm in Norwalk and did get a bit of slime in years past so I figured I'll give it a try. If it doesn't work I can always go pack to regular Hydrocoat, it's compatible.

BTW, I splurged for a set of the trailer jacks that are sold by JD, they were great to have, worth the investment especially as I had to work on the trailer crossmembers and bunks. Good to 10000lbs.

 

[DennisG01]

Just a quick heads up for anyone lifting their boat... you can jack up the boat directly under the keel if you wanted to. Concrete blocks can be stacked, 2x2 till the last row) to support the boat at the aft chine corners and one set under the bow.