what happened? 2 stroke oil overflowed and in my exhaust?

[Noble Savage]

I tilted my 175 HP OX66 all the way up...and left the key turned onto accessory. About a day later I noticed the stinking thing had pumped probably a gallon of two stroke oil and had leaked onto the ground. The real surprise to me was that there is oil in my air intake on the lowest carburetor. I don't know how it got there, or what I have to do to make sure its clear to run again. Also, wondering if there is an outside chance I burned up the 2 stroke oil pump by leaving it on so long...probably not. Anyway, any guidance would be appreciated. I normally leave my outboard down, and the key off, so thishasn't been a problem before

 

[Ky Grady]

The oil came through your carbs. If you take the air box off, I'm sure all your carb throats will have oil in them. The oil puddled in the lowest part of the air box. When the motor was tilted up, the oil was actually running out of that lower opening. Look at the bolt head behind it, has oil on top of the head. Pull the air box off, clean it out, wipe out the carb throats. You will probably have to pull your carbs also as I'm pretty sure the bowls will be full of oil. I know back in the day when the VRO pumps went bad on the Johnson/Evinrude, they would fill the bowls with oil. The oiling system may be different from the Johnrude, but it's a oil injected motor.

 

[seasick]

am not 100% sure that the oil system is the same as a 150 SX motor but I suspect it is. In that case, the oil pump on the engine is mechanical not electric and only pumps when the motor is running. Th remote tank oil pump is electrical and pumps oil when needed into the engine main tank. The sensor in that tank signals the remote oil pump when the main tank gets low. Oil from the engine pump goes into the VST tank to be mixed with gas.
I wonder if your main oil tank is leaking, a common problem, from the sensor cap. Usually when it leaks only so much oil will leak since the level goes down until it is lower than the tank lip. If the ignition is left on, I guess it could continue to fill. The oil pump in the remote tank is easy to check. I would be more worried about other things that were p[powered up like the ECU, VST pump, low and high pressure etc.
I would just start the motor and see how it runs.
When I turn off everything on my boats after a day out, I press the horn switch. If it toots, I didn't turn everything off.
Good luck

 

[Noble Savage]

Thanks for the input. I will pull the air intake and take a look. I suspect the oil transmitted through a line of some sort. I’m also curious whether it might have leaked out the reservoir cap and dripped into the air intake. One way or another I will have to check that lower carb and hope for the best. Behold the beauty of the ox66...you can actually get a sense for what you are working with and other guys have been there before. Thanks again. I’ll update when I get more figured out

 

[seasick]

At this point, I would suggest you just start the motor. Before that, pull the cowling and have a quick look for oil on the top and side of the main tank and look for oil sitting in the lower cowl. Without turning on the ignition, tilt the motor down (vertical) and look at the level of oil in the main tank. It should be pretty close to the top of the tank. If it is a lot lower, that would indicate that the tank drained out when tilted up.
When you run the motor, it may smoke a lot and you may see an oil sheen on the water. Those are to be expected.
Keep an eye on the oil tank level to make sure it is being refilled. You can also use the manual override toggle switch ( maybe on the back of the motor, sometimes on the side) to make sure the remote oil tank pump is working. As you hold the toggle switch, the oil level in the main tank should rise. You may be able to hear the pump if you listen carefully as you switch the toggle switch on and off

 

[Seanic4256]

SYMPTOMS TO WATCH FOR

Common symptoms of trouble with Yamaha precision bend include a lack of oil transfer, overfilling of the main tank, and oil leaks while the outboard is tilted. Most of the time, these problems are due to operator error and are not the components fault.

Non-transfer of oil to the engine-mounted main tank can be as simple a problem as a neglected filter. Moisture gets into the remote tank from spray, rain, condensation, or from being located in the bilge where it can be splashed or submerged. The water forms a sticky emulsion in the bottom of the tank and plugs up the fine screen in the filter element.

An overflowing main tank sometimes results from someone twisting or incorrectly installing the rubber cap on the float assembly and screen element. The tubular screen has an offset nipple that fits into the bottom oil-outlet going to the metering pump, and can bind the float if moved out of place. The arrow marks on the cap and tank should be aligned.

Leaving the key on by mistake can also cause overflow problems. As the battery run drops below 9.5 volts, the oil-controller electronics go off line, and a ground path is formed which starts the electric pump turning very slowly. Eventually, the main oil tank overfills and spews excess oil out a vent tube into the air silencer box.

While the outboard is tilted, a leaking rubber cap on the main tank can result from improper assembly or from twisting out of place. A plastic tie-wrap snugged around the rubber lip usually cures the leak. The clear sight tube on the bottom of the tank can become brittle with age, and oil may seep between it and the nipple. Replace the tube if it feels stiff, and secure it with a tie-wrap.

I don’t think the excessive oil in the carb should prevent it from starting. Just go ahead and fire it up - the engine may “like” a little extra oil.

Sean

 

[Punch53]

The engine mounted oil tank has an overflow hose that connects to the bottom of the air box on the port side. That is probably where the oil came from.

 

[Noble Savage]

hey thanks for all the great advice. As you all said, it looked way worse than it was. Looks like the oil was transmitting through the small (1/8 inch) tubing off the backside of the engine mounted oil tank. Leaving the key on kept the pump running until it dumped a gallon of oil. Lol. I’ve included a photo to show just how ridiculously clean this ox66 175 is. I didn’t start it yesterday because I want to use gasket tack to make sure those gaskets seat correctly. I’m sure it’s ready to rock. Thanks again for the great advice and is it normal for a big two stroke like that to require pumping the throttle to start from cold.

 

[seasick]

So your motor is carbureted? I assumed it was injected (SX model) hmmmm.
Is it normal to have to pump the throttle on a cold start?
Maybe. That might be needed for the choke to engage, I am not all that familiar with your motor.
Do you squeeze the primer bulb first?

My simple answer is "If you find that you need to pump the throttle to start and it always works, then pump the throttle"

It is common on older carbed inboards to have to cycle the throttle a few times to allow the accelerator jet to inject some fuel into the intake.
If one cycle works on yours, I would suspect that the choke needed to be engaged.( although I though the choke was electric If you have to pump the throttle multiple times then its the pumping of gas that is needed.