I've owned two Grady's that needed transom rebuilds in the past. One was a 1984 model that was purchased new and a 1996 purchased used when only a year old and both were well maintained and cared for. I believe GW switched to a non-rot wood in 1998 or thereabouts and eventually to a composite sometime in later years. I currently have a 2011 and to my knowledge, it's wood transom is fine and I hope it remains that way. Just out of curiosity and for peace of mind, what is the newest boat that has experienced wood transom issues that any of you might be aware of?
What is the newest GW that has experienced wood transom issues?
- Thread starter wlewis
- Start date
Mustang65fbk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2020
- Messages
- 2,595
- Reaction score
- 688
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Seattle area
- Model
- Seafarer
I looked into this topic awhile ago and I believe IIRC that they started the transition from standard marine grad plywood over to Greenwood XL in the 1997 models. It's supposed to resist rot, although I've seen people on here as well as other sites that have had 1997 and newer boats where they've had to replace parts of, or the entire transom. I've even heard of some guys with early 2000's boats that have had issues but it's generally always very confusing or not black and white as to what caused the issues and/or if it was a lack of care on their end, lack of maintenance or so forth. I've seen some claim that their boat had a factory defect that caused the issue, of which I'm sure that is always a possibility, but I don't think it's the case when everyone is claiming that every single time and like they're completely innocent in the matter. I bought my 2004 GW 228 Seafarer last October and she was/is very solid with no soft spots or moisture in the hull or anything like that. I think the biggest part of owning any boat, as well as anything else, is how well it was treated before you boat it or if it was neglected quite badly. If someone stores their boat in an indoor garage or facility, is consistently taking care of it and doing all of the required maintenance then it's going to last a lot longer than someone who leaves their boat in the water year round and doesn't do any sort of maintenance or upkeep. I believe that around 2015, or so? was the year that GW switched over to using no wood at all in the structural parts of their boats.
I believe the "Lifetime warranty" on the Greenwood XL wood is only on the wood itself and warranted through Greenwood and does not include labor nor other materials. Hopefully, GW would kick in.
Mustang65fbk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2020
- Messages
- 2,595
- Reaction score
- 688
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 38
- Location
- Seattle area
- Model
- Seafarer
I believe I heard that it was transferable but yes, I think it's only for the materials and not the labor or so forth.
My owner‘s manual states the 5 year hull warranty is transferable, but no mention of the lifetime Wood warranty. I believe the wood warranty was only stated in the sales brochure published at time the boat was produced.
The wood is only warranted through the wood manufacturer. Nothing else.
Boats newer than 1998 use Greenwood for structural components helping significantly reduce the chance for rot issues.
From what I have seen, most of the issues on boats built after 1998 can be attributed to Grady's half-ass joining of the cap/transom area and infamous aluminum angle/bang plate. Moisture makes it's way in through the screws holding down the angle and the caulked seem between the cap and transom. The moisture causes swelling and delamination when it freezes. Part of the swelling is also from the reaction from the chemical in the Green board and the embedded aluminum transom brace (not the bang plate).
Another source of water intrusion are the flared splash well drains. These are flared fittings that crack as they age or from being overstressed during installation. To make things worse, Grady was too lazy to properly seal the holes these fittings pass through. Like above: moisture + chemicals corrosive to aluminum = ugly.
Boats newer than 1998 use Greenwood for structural components helping significantly reduce the chance for rot issues.
From what I have seen, most of the issues on boats built after 1998 can be attributed to Grady's half-ass joining of the cap/transom area and infamous aluminum angle/bang plate. Moisture makes it's way in through the screws holding down the angle and the caulked seem between the cap and transom. The moisture causes swelling and delamination when it freezes. Part of the swelling is also from the reaction from the chemical in the Green board and the embedded aluminum transom brace (not the bang plate).
Another source of water intrusion are the flared splash well drains. These are flared fittings that crack as they age or from being overstressed during installation. To make things worse, Grady was too lazy to properly seal the holes these fittings pass through. Like above: moisture + chemicals corrosive to aluminum = ugly.
usmm1234
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2019
- Messages
- 456
- Reaction score
- 148
- Points
- 43
- Location
- Myrtle Beach SC
- Model
- Express 330
Greenwood is a great product. Fountain used it too. Structurally, it is superior to the composites. They only stopped using it for marketing purposes. I have an 2002 330:Express , and my transom is as solid as a rock. You do need to inspect and or replace your motor well drains With lots of 5200.
Yes. There are several on here. I'm sure they will chime in soon.
If the transom is well sealed, issues won't happen. However, it can be tough to determine when an issue is occuring without pulling engines and the bang plate.
Fishtales
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2005
- Messages
- 8,073
- Reaction score
- 1,299
- Points
- 113
I've lived this and I don't think it is a maintenance issue. Fairing compound, followed by caulk on the transom hull liner joint and then a bang plate that is screwed to fasten bang plate that covers the joint isn't good. The bang plate is impossible to remove to allow inspection nor replace without taking the motors off to inspect or correct isn't good. In my book it is poor design and material selection more than anything else. Greenwood and the composite materials are better than plywood but water is likely to get in this joint at some point unless the joint is fully glassed. If water gets in and you are in an area that has low temp conditions, you may get bulges and delamination. I'm glad I caught it early and took action to address. If not, I could have had a major repair and all the fun associated with one.
It would be interesting to know what percentage of rotted transoms are on boats with transom mounted engines, and bang plates, compared to boats with brackets and full transoms.
Fishtales
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2005
- Messages
- 8,073
- Reaction score
- 1,299
- Points
- 113
What it is...
What it should be...
What it should be...
Dhirsh
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
- Messages
- 92
- Reaction score
- 43
- Points
- 18
- Age
- 57
- Model
- Canyon 336
100% correct. An extra 5 hours of build labor and $100 in materials would have solved the issue completely . I Just sold my 2013 Grady 33, but not before I had a survey indicating moisture In the transom .That cost me plenty on the eventual selling price and it was always rack stored with no bottom paint. They build a great boat but like many boats out there its just 5% or so from living up to its reputation. The transom is so over built it will probably outlast me, but it wont outlast a half ass surveyor with a Chip on his shoulder and a moisture meter that he barely knows how to use. Sorry for the rant, but at the price point Grady should be fully glassed and sealed at the transom back in 2010 or earlier. No excuse.
“It would be interesting to know what percentage of rotted transoms are on boats with transom mounted engines, and bang plates, compared to boats with brackets and full transoms.”
Great question.
Great question.