What is the right trailer for a new Freedom 235

BobbyMac

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I have a new Freedom 235.
One option I’d like to explore is keeping it on a bunk trailer during the off-season.
It will not travel more than 3 miles going back and forth.
Plus, if an emergency arises (Hurricane) it can be quickly taken out, and put back in cheaply.
What is a good brand? What size? Specifications? Approximate cost.
My location is Cape Cod.
 

BobbyMac

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I would prefer a bunk style vs. rollers
 

seasick

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Ask the dealer you got the boat from for a recommendation. They should know best. But make sure what they recommend makes sense. They may give you what they can get and not exactly what you need.
In general the steps to size a trailer are:

Calculate the weight. Bare hull for the 235 is about 4100 lbs. Add to that about 600 lbs for a motor, gas half tank about 300 lbs and gear, maybe another 200 lps, maybe more maybe less. That puts you at about 5200 pounds. Add the trailer weight, varies but figure 1200 pounds as a ballparlk and 10% spare, your looking at a trailer with approximately a 7,000 pound rating.
First of all, do you have or will you have access to a vehicle that that tow capacity?
In terms of what type to get, aluminum frame bunk style, stainless surge disk brakes are recommended if you will dunk in salt or brackish water. For your needs a dual axel trailer will be fine.
The second most important factor is the 'size' You shouldn't size by overall boat length or overall trailer length. You need to get the transom to bow eye measurement for the boat and get a trailer that can carry the weight as well as have a similar length from the winch to the end of the bunks. The manufacturer of the trailer will list that spec (it will be a range that can be adjusted about + or- a foot.
There are many options you can add and they all add up. You decide if you need them. One option is all stainless hardware (bolts, etc, another might be fancy wheels, guides, etc).

Now for the trick part. Trailers were and still may be in short supply. Used ones are also hard to come by and in addition it is often very hard to judge condition especially for steel frames. You may decide on a specific brand but it may not be available in your area and you really want a trailer shop or marina adjust the trailer for your hull. So its not a question of what one you want but maybe what one you can get.
Price?? Hard to say since it is a supply and demand situation but I would think that $5,000 is as good a starting point as any.

Brands? The only advice I have is that some makes as much better made than others. I don't like to bash brands online but do your homework and you will see what ones get high marks and which one's don't.
 

BobbyMac

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Seasick,
Great advice. Thanks.
For towing: my son has a brand new Tundra…..a beast!!!
 

DennisG01

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Bobby, your best bet is probably to just look around at local places that offer trailers. If there's an issue with the trailer, you'll want to be able to get efficient help. I'm also going to make an assumption that you're not going to be setting up the trailer yourself? A good shop can do this for you and make sure to get it right so that loading is easy, the trailer properly supports the boat and also that weight distribution on the trailer is correct for trailering and storage. Load Rite is a pretty common trailer - not high end, but solid and reliable - there are also lot's of dealers in the NE for LR. A good trailer shop should be able to get the correct trailer size/weight rating for you, as well.
 
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glacierbaze

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One thing that you want to avoid is someone taking a short trailer frame and extending the bunks 3 feet beyond the rear of the frame. I see that all the time. You want the frame of the trailer to extend as far back towards the transom as possible.
 

seasick

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One thing that you want to avoid is someone taking a short trailer frame and extending the bunks 3 feet beyond the rear of the frame. I see that all the time. You want the frame of the trailer to extend as far back towards the transom as possible.
In theory if your bow eye to transom length is in the range specified for your trailer, that situation should not occur.
 

DennisG01

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One thing that you want to avoid is someone taking a short trailer frame and extending the bunks 3 feet beyond the rear of the frame. I see that all the time. You want the frame of the trailer to extend as far back towards the transom as possible.
Generally speaking, yes. But there are trailer manufacturers that build their trailers that way - as long as the trailer is designed as such (which would mean the weight is equal on both axles) it's totally fine. I've owned some like that and know of plenty of friends/family members/customers with trailers like that. Some of these are 20 years old.
 

seasick

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Dennis, I have seen examples of what you are describing but I think most of those were trailers for lighter weight hulls. I see similar examples of roller trailers where the rollers extend pretty far past the trailer frame
The important question is whether the trailer was designed like that ( as you mention) or whether some enterprising boater needed a longer trailer and was creative with the bunks.
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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My advice is to get the best trailer you can afford and don't go cheap. Tandem axle trailer would be ideal with Kodiak stainless brakes . I would go with 15 inch wheels with 6 lug hubs. Your right on the edge there of needing a 7,500 pound trailer and the next size up.
 

Fishtales

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I'd shoot a note to GW Cust Service and see if they have any recommendations in addition to the dealer network. It is a fairly popular boat, so there should be info out there.
 

DennisG01

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Dennis, I have seen examples of what you are describing but I think most of those were trailers for lighter weight hulls. I see similar examples of roller trailers where the rollers extend pretty far past the trailer frame
The important question is whether the trailer was designed like that ( as you mention) or whether some enterprising boater needed a longer trailer and was creative with the bunks.
Trailers with the extended support can actually be made with quite a high GVWR - easily twice what Bobby needs. All they really do is move the axles further back. The weight is still being carried by the crossmembers at the proper ratio. But, sure, an owner could try and be as "creative" as he wants to! A decent manufacturer, though, won't get "creative" :)


Bobby, in the end, it's just a hull that needs a trailer under it. I don't mean this in a negative way, but there's nothing special about that hull that makes this any more or less difficult than any other pleasure craft hull. It doesn't have to be overly complicated.