What size brass drain tube for Grady Adventure

[imjus4u2nv]

I need to replace one of the brass drain tubes in my 1995 Adventure - anyone know the diameter and length brass pipe I need? I am checked out the varies threads on this repair, and thinking of enlarging the hole and using some epoxy to seal - has anyone gone this route and did you have any issues enlarging hole (looks tough given the clearance between the flange inside the well and the well floor).

Don't have the boat local at the moment and want to order parts to make the repair.

Also looking for a flange tool if someone is looking to sell (also posted in the for sale/wanted section).

 

[Fishtales]

I'm thinking these are all the same on the GWs. You could measure the ID with a digital vernier/caliper. To get the ID. Assuming you get it out clean, you can measure the OD as well as the hole.
In parallel, shoot GW an email via the Customer Service link on their website. They should be able to provide the part. Another is to talk to your local dealer, they may have the part number (if you want to buy from GW) or potentially have industry part number so you can obtain locally.

 

[SkunkBoat]

If you are going to widen and epoxy the holes, you don't need the brass tubes.
Just color the epoxy or finish it with some paint. Put some scupper flaps on the outside.

They only use the brass tubes to save time....drill hole, hammer in tube, flare end, done... they don't seal very well

Just like the aluminum transom cap...to save production time...
When they connect the cap to the hull, the rub rail hides the seam except at the transom. If they glassed and sanded and tried to match the gelcoat it would take two days...

 

[DennisG01]

I agree. There's is absolutely nothing special to a brass tube and no reason to NOT get rid of it in favor of resin/glass.

The garboard drain on my Grady was actually a brass tube. When I rebuilt the floor I also drilled that brass tube out, glassed the hole and then re-drilled for a proper garboard drain plug (screw in). There was no way I was going to let my boat sit on a mooring with just a silly, expanding rubber plug to keep it from sinking!

 

[freddy063]

I agree, I would forget the brass tubes and just get fiberglass ones and flair them in

 

[Willy-C]

If you are still interested, I can send two sets of brass drain tools (1.00” and 1.25”) for you to use. I used them on my 19’ Grady.
All I ask is to send them back in a reasonable time.

 

[Willy-C]

Hey ImJustForYouToEnvy.........you want to use these tools or doing something else?

 

[imjus4u2nv]

Hey ImJustForYouToEnvy.........you want to use these tools or doing something else?

I would really appreciate it and really nice offer. I will send you a PM (just moved so been crazy week, sorry delay).

 

[Willy-C]

Ok, I’ll get them in the mail early this week....

 

[Willy-C]

A few pics of my transome reseal

 

[Willy-C]

Parts on the way. Forgot to mention in the PM I included some left over brass tubing I used (bought from McMasterCarr).

You may find you’ll end up changing all the brass tubes once you see how easy it is to do.

Good Luck

 

[imjus4u2nv]

Willy-c, thanks so much, hoping mine come out as good as yours.

 

[Willy-C]

When I did mine a few years ago I went a few steps further. Reading about the dreaded rotten GW transom syndrome I unbolted my 150hp Yammy, lifted up a few inches with a gantry crane, removed and resealed all hardware penetrating the transom, including kicker bracket and swim platform. It was a huge relief everything was dry underneath. Hopefully yours will be too.

IIRC some wet/rotted transom problems could be traced to leaking scupper or splash well drains.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

So I gave this a go today - I recieved tools from willy-c (thanks again) including an extra 1 1/4 inch pipe flared on one end. I got the old tube out using a flat head screw driver and hammer - about 10 minutes later and I was seeing a dry core - what a relief. I mocked up the tube and added a 1/4 of an inch (I think this was too much and will redo with 1/8). I cut the pipe with a cutter slowly (did a practice cut first and learned of didnt go slowly the pipe caved in a little and the tool wont fit).
I heated the non flared end of the pipe and cooled in water - I should have heated the pre flared end also, because when I tightened everything the new flare was not perfectly tight to the hull and the old flare split - i think main reason was too much extra pipe and will only cut an extra 1/8th of an inch when new pipe arrives (size 1 1/4" x 3"). Took the new pipe out and cleaned up the 4200. Will post pics of emd product - stay tuned.

 

[Willy-C]

Does the tube need to be heated and cooled? I have read somewhere annealing (heating and allowing tube to cool naturally) helps but quenching the tubing may make the end brittle. I didn’t heat the tubing on my installation but maybe because I used the tubing from McMaster Carr. I may have used a tubing cutter to scribe a faint square line but I did use a hacksaw to cut because of deformation issues.

Edit: I reread your post and didn’t realize it was the preflared side that split.

 

[Bayhouse]

Hey Willy-C, I need to replace those tubes on my 330, would you be willing to let me use the tools after imjus4u2nv?

 

[Willy-C]

Hey Willy-C, I need to replace those tubes on my 330, would you be willing to let me use the tools after imjus4u2nv?

PM Imjus, have them sent to you when he’s done.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

Will do.

 

[Bayhouse]

Message sent, thanks WIlly-C!

 

[Bayhouse]

Willy-C or imjus4u2nv, can you let me know what part # you ordered from McMcaster? I know the tubes on my 330 are 1-1/4 x 3-1/2 but i'm not sure about wall thickness. GW customer service gave me the name of the supplier, but their web site is dead.

Thanks!