ROBERTH said:
No, that pin is a positive lock only, to preclude inadvertent dropping. It can not pull the chain tight, but the anchor doesn't move much in that big bracket.
I second "Secosouth" for their chain and 8-plait combination packages.
Brian
Which Anchor?
- Thread starter ROBERTH
- Start date
No, that pin is a positive lock only, to preclude inadvertent dropping. It can not pull the chain tight, but the anchor doesn't move much in that big bracket.
I second "Secosouth" for their chain and 8-plait combination packages.
Brian
Hey folks, been a while and been very busy working or fishing, so getting near time to look at the windlass project maybe next month for sure.
One open question I have left as I have been studying all the variables is about if the existing pulpit roller...original one from Grady pulpit can handle a 22# Lewmar anchor?
Bobp, is this the anchor you have and is it ok so far? I found that Lewmar has a double roller setup for the Delta 22# anchor. Problem will be that my existing SS roller assy is actually installed integral within the pulpit and not mounted flush on top of the pulpit.
I will be removing the pulpit and fixing some chipped out areas as well as fixing some of the areas where the Gelcoat has separated from the core, so I could fill in the area where the existing assembly is installed and mount the wider double roller assembly on top, or could even check into opening the width some of where the existing one is and regelcoat and intall the wider model.
But, if the existing one is adequate and not subject to damage due to weight of heavier anchor, It would be a lot less $$ and work to make these mods.
One open question I have left as I have been studying all the variables is about if the existing pulpit roller...original one from Grady pulpit can handle a 22# Lewmar anchor?
Bobp, is this the anchor you have and is it ok so far? I found that Lewmar has a double roller setup for the Delta 22# anchor. Problem will be that my existing SS roller assy is actually installed integral within the pulpit and not mounted flush on top of the pulpit.
I will be removing the pulpit and fixing some chipped out areas as well as fixing some of the areas where the Gelcoat has separated from the core, so I could fill in the area where the existing assembly is installed and mount the wider double roller assembly on top, or could even check into opening the width some of where the existing one is and regelcoat and intall the wider model.
But, if the existing one is adequate and not subject to damage due to weight of heavier anchor, It would be a lot less $$ and work to make these mods.
The original anchor roller on our 2002 Islander was for a fluke (i.e. Danforth) style anchor. The 22# Delta would not come up fully into that roller as the plow jammed against the underside of the pulpit. So, we went with a larger roller that was designed for that style of anchor.
Brian
Brian
Good point, so you were able to find just a larger roller and change out existing one? How hard to find a roller with same width but larger diameter?
I was thinking that the weight/stress of heavy 22# anchor might be too much for the single roller or bolt that is holding the roller, but maybe it is ok as is other than the diameter?
I was thinking that the weight/stress of heavy 22# anchor might be too much for the single roller or bolt that is holding the roller, but maybe it is ok as is other than the diameter?
RobertH, no I have the original galvanized fluke design and leave it in it's holder, not much use for an anchor most time spent drifting. Actually removed the powerwinch freefall and replicated the existing pupit in fiberglass, made it a bit deeper. It was checking on the surface and didn't want to be bothered any longer. I painted over the glass.
Added a middle cleat already had two cleats off the fordeck either side like newer Sailfish models, eliminated the chocks.
I see Grady is lately slotting pulpits and have the deltas come out the bottom. I found the vendor who offers the picture frame as I call it SS hardware to do it but since little anchor need not to mention the cost of the hardware but easy rectangular cut would do it otherwise.
You can try the setup as existing and see if it works out, if not can raise the roller assembly to up on top, or positioning it further out from end if that helps.
When in motion you need to tie off the anchor snug of any type just in case the boat gets airborne - don't know what seas you are in.
Added a middle cleat already had two cleats off the fordeck either side like newer Sailfish models, eliminated the chocks.
I see Grady is lately slotting pulpits and have the deltas come out the bottom. I found the vendor who offers the picture frame as I call it SS hardware to do it but since little anchor need not to mention the cost of the hardware but easy rectangular cut would do it otherwise.
You can try the setup as existing and see if it works out, if not can raise the roller assembly to up on top, or positioning it further out from end if that helps.
When in motion you need to tie off the anchor snug of any type just in case the boat gets airborne - don't know what seas you are in.
Thanks BobP!
With all the reading and discussing over the last year on this subject, many have convinced me the right anchor to use is the Lewmar 22# delta for the type of fishing I will be doing. I Was hoping to find out more info from anyone with experience on 22# delta and how it works with original roll assy. since I am getting ready to remove the pulpit and work it over with repairs and would be the right time to glass in the slot and mount a newer version that is slightly wider and with the double rollers. Would not want to have to remove the pulpit after finding out the existing roller was inadequate for handling this 22# anchor.
I have already added 2 cleats to bow on each side of the pulpit, but near edge of rail like I see configured on many others here. Those I will use to tied off when anchored if rough. Assume I can stay anchored and not tie off to cleat when it is relatively calm, but have heard some warn not to do this as it could cause damage to windlass, trying to hold anchor and not tie off.
One thing that seems to be difficult is to drop anchor and then have to reach out and grab the rope and pull off to side and cleat off, but guess using a gaff to grab the line is the way to do this. I have to wonder how many folks actually do this vs use the windlass to hold position.....
I want to start doing more bottom fishing next year and need a windlass to pull anchor as we had a couple of incidents this past year trying to pull anchor in rougher seas. I think it is worth every penny to put one on and not have to try and not fall or break something while hanging on for dear life.
With all the reading and discussing over the last year on this subject, many have convinced me the right anchor to use is the Lewmar 22# delta for the type of fishing I will be doing. I Was hoping to find out more info from anyone with experience on 22# delta and how it works with original roll assy. since I am getting ready to remove the pulpit and work it over with repairs and would be the right time to glass in the slot and mount a newer version that is slightly wider and with the double rollers. Would not want to have to remove the pulpit after finding out the existing roller was inadequate for handling this 22# anchor.
I have already added 2 cleats to bow on each side of the pulpit, but near edge of rail like I see configured on many others here. Those I will use to tied off when anchored if rough. Assume I can stay anchored and not tie off to cleat when it is relatively calm, but have heard some warn not to do this as it could cause damage to windlass, trying to hold anchor and not tie off.
One thing that seems to be difficult is to drop anchor and then have to reach out and grab the rope and pull off to side and cleat off, but guess using a gaff to grab the line is the way to do this. I have to wonder how many folks actually do this vs use the windlass to hold position.....
I want to start doing more bottom fishing next year and need a windlass to pull anchor as we had a couple of incidents this past year trying to pull anchor in rougher seas. I think it is worth every penny to put one on and not have to try and not fall or break something while hanging on for dear life.
ROBERTH said:
Look at this photo. The cleat just to the port side of the windlass was the original centerline cleat. We use that to tie off the rode, instead of 'riding to the windlass'. I will leave that cleat in that position, even with installing the new windlass further aft.
Here is the windlass I just purchased. Best price I could find and the anchor should be sellable. http://www.hodgesmarine.com/Lewmar-Profish-700-Free-Fall-Windlass-W-Rocker-p/lew6656211107-310.htm
You could step up on level on the windlass and get the 22# anchor thrown in. http://www.hodgesmarine.com/Lewmar-...With-22lb-Delta-Ancho-p/lew6656411108-102.htm
Brian
You could step up on level on the windlass and get the 22# anchor thrown in. http://www.hodgesmarine.com/Lewmar-...With-22lb-Delta-Ancho-p/lew6656411108-102.htm
Brian
Hey Billfish, What windlass are you using on your Gulfstream? Any pics of the setup? I have a 91 Gulfstream and want toadd a windlass. Did you have to add bow cleats after removing the one on the pulpit?
Hey RobertH, how was it to add the cleats on the bow? Did you back them up underneath with anything?
You are going to wear the rode out at the gypsy holding the boat with it - but many do. If you want to tie off, just kick the boat up to slaken line a bit and grab it to tie off on cleat, then boat will fal back snugging up.
In wind and seas better to stay low up on bow and crawl on all 4s.
I would not stand up myself unless calm.
In wind and seas better to stay low up on bow and crawl on all 4s.
I would not stand up myself unless calm.
Fishman, I use oversized 1/4" Alum. Backing Plates for almost everything where possible. Will be ordering a large piece for the windlass after I take some measurements.
ocnslr, thanks for the links! I think the 1000 model will pull too many amps for existing wiring that Grady installed so think I have to say with the 700 model due to that situation. Great deal though for sure. Might consider the 14# with the 700 since it comes with it and see how well it works. If not happy, then can get a 22#.
I like the position of the cleat as well! Don't have to use the chocks with that setup.
I was rethinking what I said ealier in what I was talking about in regards to the slack in line and pull with gaff to get to cleat on side. This is where I was going to bypass the pull on tip of pulpit and just put direct pull from cleat to anchor. I had heard folks snap off their pulpit when trying to free the anchor.
I guess that if you pull forward carefully not to run over line, then use windlass to pull but not force the anchor free, would be ok in most all cases, but if anchor appears to be stuck, then need to cleat off and then break free and resume normal pull from pulpit roller. Will have to learn the feel and behavior for sure in this area. I wonder how well you will know if putting too much stress on teh pulpit?
ocnslr, thanks for the links! I think the 1000 model will pull too many amps for existing wiring that Grady installed so think I have to say with the 700 model due to that situation. Great deal though for sure. Might consider the 14# with the 700 since it comes with it and see how well it works. If not happy, then can get a 22#.
I like the position of the cleat as well! Don't have to use the chocks with that setup.
I was rethinking what I said ealier in what I was talking about in regards to the slack in line and pull with gaff to get to cleat on side. This is where I was going to bypass the pull on tip of pulpit and just put direct pull from cleat to anchor. I had heard folks snap off their pulpit when trying to free the anchor.
I guess that if you pull forward carefully not to run over line, then use windlass to pull but not force the anchor free, would be ok in most all cases, but if anchor appears to be stuck, then need to cleat off and then break free and resume normal pull from pulpit roller. Will have to learn the feel and behavior for sure in this area. I wonder how well you will know if putting too much stress on teh pulpit?