Windlass Installation

[Bill Davis]

I have a 2002 Adventure 208 w/ pulpit and I would like to install a windlass. Any suggestions, ideas, etc
Thanks

 

[seasick]

It can be done with some effort. The ones I have seen split the anchor line locker lid in half. The left half is reinforced, permanently bolted and bonded to the opening. It is used to mount the windlass. The right half of the original lid is modified so as to be hinged and allow access to the rode locker. If you just split the lid without building a channel to divert water, rain and splash will run into the locker.
The locker is not super deep so the amount of line that will fall may be limited. The type of anchor roller in or on the pulpit may affect performance. A hinged roller ( front end is movable) can work better for deployment.
The hard part can be the electric. The power may have to run above the cabin liner. If a windlass was an original option, wires may be there. Some/many of the winlass options require a fairly large current draw and therefore larger cables. If you have wires in place, look up what current they can carry and select a windlass with that in mind. Depending on your total accessory load, your present wiring from the battery to the helm, may not be adequate to support the current needed. In that case, you will need to run both positive and negative new cables back to the battery compartment. You will also need to install a suitable breaker in the battery compartment.
You will need to install a few other pieces of hardware to lock the anchor chain when not in use etc.

 

[Bill Davis]

Thanks, quite a bit to digest. I assume the pulpit reinforces the deck, and my though was to attach the windlass to the pulpit. The info on the shallow anchor locker for the rode, I did not think about. I appreciate your info.

 

[seasick]

The windlass can be on the pulpit as long as it extends far enough back so that line can drop straight down into the rode locker. I don't know what your pulpit looks like but there isn't a lot of area forward of the anchor locker on that hull and you need a sturdy base to bolt on the windlass and make sure the whole thing is strong enough to 'hold' anchor in snotty seas.
I posted a story a long while ago about a fellow who came up with a somewhat ingenious way to deploy and retrieve an anchor on a 208 without having to go forward or have a windlass.
OK it is a bit Macgiverish but it worked.
He installed an anchor roller on the bow of course and then installed a pulley on the face of the cabin bump out. He installed a second pulley on the starboard across from the center line of the first pulley.
He ran the anchor line through the two pulleys and then along the walk around side. He tied of the line on the mid cleat. To deploy the anchor, he would until the line and let it out. To retrieve it, he would do the opposite. Yes, he was manually operating the anchor line but he didn't have to go forward to the bow. One downside is that he had to stow the line along the side walkway or could stow it in the starboard helm locker. Was it pretty? Not exactly but it worked fine. I think about it every time I have to go to the bow on my 208 in rolling seas

 

[Summertop511]

I have a 2005 seafarer with the windlass on the pulpit. Now it’s a shallow drop into the anchor locker. Newer models the windlass is on the rope locker door. I found 8 plait rope to work best. Also cut down the inside bow eye down so rope can slide passed it and tie the end to a 2x or something. Or a big knot on the end. Also 150 ft is probably a good amount these lockers can hold

 

[Pighunter]

Can you mount a windlass without having a pulpit on a 228?

 

[seasick]

This is a two part answer. You do not necessarily need a pulpit for a windlass. An anchor roller will work fine. Look at the Lewmar site for anchor rollers.
The second factor is whether you have enough space to mount the windlass. I suspect that you would on a 228 especially if it was originally a factory option for that hull. Check the Grady archived brochures.

 

[wrxhoon]

This is how it is mounted on my 228, as you can see you don't need a pulpit to mount it in the same place as mine. The problem will be when you retrieve the anchor you will make a mess on the gelcoat, you have to have something to keep it away so it doesn't hit the hull.
I don't know where you can mount it on the 208.

 

[Parthery]

You can do it without a pulpit. My 225 has it mounted directly in front of the anchor locker door. I’ll pull the cover off and take some pics tonight.

 

[seasick]

I am not sure there is the same amount of deck space forward of the locker on a 208 hull as opposed to a 225 or 228. Unfortunately my 208 is not nearby to check

 

[Rustygaff]

I installed a windlass 2 years ago. I ended up purchasing the split hatch from GW. Since GW offered the windlass from the factory as an option, the wiring harness from the console to the bow was already there. It was a lot of work but it works well and a back saver. Good luck

 

[Sparkdog118]

Is your winlass wired through the main house breaker also or is it wired separate from the house circuit?

 

[Bill Davis]

Thanks to everybody for their replys. This is the info I received from GW. On the 208 with a pulpit a horizontal windlass can be installed. 1. remove the lifting eye bolt from the foredeck and the corresponding threaded bolt which is attached to a metal frame below the foredeck. 2. mount the windlass as far back on the pulpit as possible. 3. The foredeck and pulpit do not need additional support, it is already there. 4. The metal plate which the threaded bolt was attached to is directly below the windlass, make a metal come to place over the structure to insure the rode falls free. 5. Lewmar said no to the question of offsetting the windlass to fall to the left of the metal plate.

I'll see what happens.....

Thanks again

 

[Rustygaff]

Is your winlass wired through the main house breaker also or is it wired separate from the house circuit?

I grabbed power off the distribution bus bar located inside the console which also feeds the fuse block. I then ran the hot lead from the bus to the Lewmar breaker which I located at the helm area. You can see the breaker mounted just below the binnacle near the 12V power outlet in my pics. I think the power distribution bus is fed directly from the main battery switch with #4 wire so there is plenty of amperage.

 

[Sparkdog118]

Thank you. Do you happen to know what gage wire feeds the buss bar. The installation manual states that the winlass needs #6 wire from the battery to the machine to keep the wire from overloading.

 

[Bill Davis]

Again thanks to all for the info/ Mr. WREXHOON, thanks for the pictures, that is the mounting i hope to achieve. My neighbor, a mechanical engineer w/ a 30" GW had an issue with removing the lifting bolt as it provides support for the pulpit. Although GW said the deck is fortified, I think I might enhance it with some angle iron on the pulpit thru bolts. Although my boating is mainly fishing in the inland waters of Eastern Carolina, and I shy away from bad weather, I want to make sure the foredeck structure handles the load of the windlass. I am looking at the Lewmar pro fish 700. My next inspection will be the access pipe to see if it has room for two 8 AWG cables.

I have belonged to a Mainship and a Carver forum in the past.......this GW forum tops those two by leaps and bounds. The forum is as good as the members.

THANKS !!

 

[seasick]

Angle aluminum if needed not angle iron.

 

[Sparkdog118]

The manual calls for #6 wire if you have a wire longer than 33 ft from the battery to the machine. This includes all wire distance from the battery to the breaker, breaker to the solenoid, and solenoid to the machine. That could add up really quick with all bends and curves that the wire travels. Here is a copy of the installation manual.

https://newcontent.westmarine.com/documents/pdfs/OwnersManuals/ANCHORS_DOCKS_MOORINGS/V700%20manual%2065001022-iss8-Eng.pdf

 

[wrxhoon]

My next inspection will be the access pipe to see if it has room for two 8 AWG cables.

I don't know about your boat but I didn't have any problem on my 228. We had a guy at the club with a 208 and a windlass but he moved interstate a couple years ago so I can't help you but I think you should be fine. I bought my boat with the windlass fitted as you see in the pictures. The previous owner had it fitted and they didn't bother putting the cables in the pipe, the just fixed them under the gunnel . I'm a bit fussy so I put them through the pipe when I fitted all the electronics as soon as I got the boat home.

 

[Ky Grady]

Dang it!!!! Ya'll costing me more money. I'm looking into a windlass install for myself now. I can see it's benefits especially since I'm pretty much by myself when it comes to boat operations and anchoring, even when the wife and some of my buddies are on board. Only have one guy I trust to help with anchoring, but he's not always with me. Catching bait in SC in the channel and sandbars in Florida, I can see the benefit.

For sand/mud anchoring,,, what anchor is needed/preferred? Delta plow or Fortress fluke?