Thanks to everybody for their replys. This is the info I received from GW. On the 208 with a pulpit a horizontal windlass can be installed. 1. remove the lifting eye bolt from the foredeck and the corresponding threaded bolt which is attached to a metal frame below the foredeck. 2. mount the windlass as far back on the pulpit as possible. 3. The foredeck and pulpit do not need additional support, it is already there. 4. The metal plate which the threaded bolt was attached to is directly below the windlass, make a metal come to place over the structure to insure the rode falls free. 5. Lewmar said no to the question of offsetting the windlass to fall to the left of the metal plate.
I'll see what happens.....
Thanks again
I have a 25 lb Manson supreme, came with the boat , a good all rounder works on sand and reef. I only anchor for livies.Dang it!!!! Ya'll costing me more money. I'm looking into a windlass install for myself now. I can see it's benefits especially since I'm pretty much by myself when it comes to boat operations and anchoring, even when the wife and some of my buddies are on board. Only have one guy I trust to help with anchoring, but he's not always with me. Catching bait in SC in the channel and sandbars in Florida, I can see the benefit.
For sand/mud anchoring,,, what anchor is needed/preferred? Delta plow or Fortress fluke?
Since my boat was pre-wired at the factory for the windlass option, I believe they ran #4 wire from the batteries up to the bus. They left the windlass harness inside the console coiled up and ziptied for future use.Thank you. Do you happen to know what gage wire feeds the buss bar. The installation manual states that the winlass needs #6 wire from the battery to the machine to keep the wire from overloading.
I mounted a Lewmar 14# DTX and it works great in sand/mud. If you go this route, I suggest you use the Lewmar 8-plait chain/rode. I found that their splice goes through the windlass easier than some of the other line that is out there.Dang it!!!! Ya'll costing me more money. I'm looking into a windlass install for myself now. I can see it's benefits especially since I'm pretty much by myself when it comes to boat operations and anchoring, even when the wife and some of my buddies are on board. Only have one guy I trust to help with anchoring, but he's not always with me. Catching bait in SC in the channel and sandbars in Florida, I can see the benefit.
For sand/mud anchoring,,, what anchor is needed/preferred? Delta plow or Fortress fluke?
I mounted a Lewmar 14# DTX and it works great in sand/mud. If you go this route, I suggest you use the Lewmar 8-plait chain/rode. I found that their splice goes through the windlass easier than some of the other line that is out there.
The gauge of the cables for the windlass depend on mostly two factors: The actual draw of the windlass ( not the same as the recommended breaker necessarily) and the total round trip length of the cables.Since my boat was pre-wired at the factory for the windlass option, I believe they ran #4 wire from the batteries up to the bus. They left the windlass harness inside the console coiled up and ziptied for future use.
I use Lewmar 8-plait 1/2" x 200' x 15' 1/4" chain. I attached the chain to the anchor with a stainless swivel.Thanks. I had already looked into the chain/rode from Lewmar and was going with it. Also like the looks of the DTX. What did you use to connect anchor to chain? Standard clevis? Rode length?
I use Lewmar 8-plait 1/2" x 200' x 15' 1/4" chain. I attached the chain to the anchor with a stainless swivel.
When I looked at the installation doc, bot the vertical and horizontal call for 6 gauge cable for a 40 foot total run. What doc did you see that said 8G for the horizontal?I just noticed that the cable requirements for the Lewmar verticle 700 differ from the Lewmar profish 700 horizontal. The v700 calls for 6 awg at 31' and the 700 horzontal cals for 8 awg for 41' to 66'.
That will prompt a telephone call to Lewmar tech support. Why ?
Thanks again
Seeing those cracks under the bow roller, your problems go deeper than just flexing.Hi,
Did you add the pulpit? I have a 1991 Seafarer and the previous owner mounted the windless and I am having issues with the bow flexing. He used small washers under the deck. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix my problem.
No, I bought the boat with the pulpit,I agree with Glaciebaze, your problem is more serious than flexing.Something must be done quickly, before it gets worseHi,
Did you add the pulpit? I have a 1991 Seafarer and the previous owner mounted the windless and I am having issues with the bow flexing. He used small washers under the deck. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix my problem.
1/2 in aluminum plate as large as you can get into the area would help.Hi,
Did you add the pulpit? I have a 1991 Seafarer and the previous owner mounted the windless and I am having issues with the bow flexing. He used small washers under the deck. I am trying to figure out the best way to fix my problem.