Windlass

Rupo60

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I have a 2007 273 chase cc I am looking for the windlass control box / solenoid I can hear clicking when I use switch and windlass hesitates I can barely get head into anchor locker to even get a view if it’s in there so I’m hoping it’s somewhere else thx !!!
 

Rupo60

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Try following the wires from the switch at the helm to see where they go. I would not expect the relay to be in the anchor locker but I could be wrong.
. Thx I will look !
 

Fishtales

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I think it is a straight wire from the windlass breaker to the windlass and the solenoid in on the windlass. Might be easier to just pull the unit and investigate.
 

wspitler

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Most windlasses have a relay to handle (switch and reverse) the high current load. For the 330, that relay is located in the anchor locker and is totally separate from the windlass itself.s-l640.jpg
 
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Rupo60

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Most windlasses have a relay to handle (switch and reverse) the high current load. For the 330, that relay is located in the anchor locker and is totally separate from the windlass itself.View attachment 16768
I figure probably in locker but of course it will be almost impossible to get in there. I’ve had other lockers in other biats with much more room to work ‍♂️
 

Ky Grady

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Do you have an access panel in the front of the cuddy, never mind, I see you're a center console. My 228 does. And the relay should be close to the windlass, more than likely in the locker.

20200907_131433.jpg
 

seasick

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Ky,
What is that inline fuse feeding?
 

seasick

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Thanks Where do the main power feeds go to? Accessory bus or back to the batteries?
 

Rupo60

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I will be back on boat Monday see if I can get a good look in locker if so still not much room to change it out of course BE970E11-1B67-485D-8FAB-E8ADA2AE62AB.jpeg
 

seasick

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So does that mean that the windlass is operational even when the batteries are switched off? Is that feed overload protected and if so where? Just curious since MYOtherBoat is wired completely differently apparently ( fed from the accessory buss. It has a Lemar V700 windlass
 

wspitler

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On the 330, it would be except that the control circuits (dash and foot switches) are not powered when the batteries are off. There is power to the relay at all times, regardless of battery switch position, unless the dedicated windlass breaker is tripped. Can't say about other boats.
 

Ky Grady

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So does that mean that the windlass is operational even when the batteries are switched off? Is that feed overload protected and if so where? Just curious since MYOtherBoat is wired completely differently apparently ( fed from the accessory buss. It has a Lemar V700 windlass


If you look at my thread in Tips, Mods, Electronic,,, "228 Windlass install complete", I gave a fairly detailed explanation of the install.
 

Hookup1

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Let's back up. What is the make and model of the windlass? Figure out from that if you have a relay or not.

My old Horizon 700 was a direct from battery with no solenoid with the helm switch doing the reversing and no fuse that I ever found. In this case a bad panel switch could be your problem. But you say you hear clicking so you probably have a relay.

The larger windlass's use a relay with heavy wire from the battery to the relay to the windlass. Typically really and fuse are close to the windlass. They may have put the relay closer to the helm and your switch. If it clicks and doesn't work it could be the relay. I bought one on eBay for $17.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-Re...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Make sure your battery is good too.
 

Rupo60

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Batteries good. When it clicks the anchor will stop momentarily then it will continue working and no clicking so it is intermittent just thought I would try to solve before it stops working totally
 
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Hookup1

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Batteries good. When it clicks the anchor will stop momentarily then it will continue working and no clicking so it is intermittent just thought I would try to solve before it stops working totally

You must have a solenoid somewhere - there is nothing in the windlass to "click". Find out where the "click" is coming from - the solenoid or the windlass? I'm still suspicious of the battery. The initial surge may be dropping the battery voltage when the motor starts causing the solenoid to drop out. It then recovers picking the solenoid back up and powering a moving motor. Can you move windlass to another battery to test?
 
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Rupo60

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I’m going to get in there on day off Monday or Tuesday if the rain holds off I will check battery and try to find solenoid etc. plus run the windlass at dock to see if this happens again thx !
 

seasick

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The first test and one o the easier is to pop the switch and try activating the windlass by connecting the wire terminal on the back of the switch. Without knowing the switch model number, I can't say what wires need to be jumpered but figuring it out cant be difficult. Basically at a minimum there will be one wire with constant 12v on it. There will be two other wires to the relay. One will be the signal for up and one for down, If a jumper works all the time but the switch itself doesn't, the switch is probably bad. By the way, does the windlass have the same issues when raising anchor as when dropping it?
 

Hookup1

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The first test and one o the easier is to pop the switch and try activating the windlass by connecting the wire terminal on the back of the switch. Without knowing the switch model number, I can't say what wires need to be jumpered but figuring it out cant be difficult. Basically at a minimum there will be one wire with constant 12v on it. There will be two other wires to the relay. One will be the signal for up and one for down, If a jumper works all the time but the switch itself doesn't, the switch is probably bad. By the way, does the windlass have the same issues when raising anchor as when dropping it?

It probably just the battery. Jumping the switch requires two wires and an understanding of how polarity is reversed to power solenoid up or down. If no solenoid you need jumpers to carry full current - not likely he has them.