I am I am new to the group however not new to Grady. Had a 92 Marlin for 10 years, bought a 45 foot sea ray sedan bridge for three years and I’m back in a Grady white 2012 sportsman 180. With my previous boat experiences I have gotten used to several deep fishing holes in the 60 - 100 feet plus range, has anyone tried to install a windless with a 200 line capacity on the sportsman 180. I’m too old to be yanking in 100 feet of rope and chain.
Windless on a 180 sportsman?
- Thread starter SweetBabyGrady
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The "capacity" has nothing to do with a windlass. Capacity is all about the rope locker. Measure the locker where you would anticipate cutting the hole for the windlass. How deep is it? I suspect it's not going to be anywhere near deep enough - but that's only a guess.
On the other hand, an anchor for that size boat is only going to weigh about 5lbs.
If you need your anchor to take hold in 100 foot depths, you will need a lot more than 200 feet of rode. As also mentioned, I doubt you will have enough anchor locker capacity for all that line. There is a heck of a difference in suitability for deep sea fishing between a 30 or 45 foot boat and the 180.
Recoil Rob
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Do you have a windless? I would not think so. The locker isn't deep enough to allow the line to lay down without jamming the windlass.
Recoil Rob
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Rob, what we are talking about is that the amount of rope a locker can handle without a windlass has no correlation to what it can handle with a windlass - which is the OP's concern.
Recoil Rob
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I know, I was just giving some info about how much line you can get in the locker, being a 180 owner. FWIW
This doesn’t answer your original question, but the answer to the underlying problem may be to install a “spot lock” trolling motor, rather than a windlass. Rhodan or Minnkota Terova seems to be the preferred choice. I don’t know anyone who is still dropping anchor when they have a choice, especially in deeper water, where the trolling motor noise does not bother the fish. And so much easier to end up right over your spot, than trying to judge scope and drift.
SweetBabyGrady:
Sorry to be so late to this party, but if you are still interested I can offer observations from many years experience anchoring in 60' to 100' of water. First, anchoring with a windlass is SLOW. I don't care what type or brand windlass you choose, launching and recovering takes considerable time. Lewmar's larger Profish or whatever they call it these days has proven the fastest. This is a durable windlass provided 1) you DO NOT hold the down switch too long and back the clutch out too far, 2) once anchored you always tie-off to a cleat or use a stop to prevent the thrust bearing from being crushed, and 3) you do not allow a knock in the rode to pass through the gypsy and break the guides and tension arm. If you always do these three things, you should get several good years service from your, I almost forgot, expensive windlass.
Several members suggested that you might not have adequate space in your locker for the required anchor rode (on a typical decent weather day, I use 300' or so when anchoring in 100'). The real concern isn't total locker capacity but instead usable locker capacity. Someone above mentioned, and I can't stress enough the importance, but windlass anchor rode MUST ALWAYS fall freely downward. This fall freely downward requirements means that the locker needs to be deep. And the windlass needs to be situated directly over the deep portion of the locker. For example, even as large as the locker is in the pre 2008 GW 330 Express (it will easily hold 700' or more of 5/8" 8-plait anchor rode), the windlass is mounted much too far forward and rode tends to pile on the sloped part of the locker and knock up (I think GW improved situation after 2008 by moving windlass aft a bit). I can't imagine an 18' boat having both adequate volume and depth in the bow to hold enough rode to anchor in 100'. If for some reason you do have enough volume and depth for the required rode, you will still need a roller pulpit and self-launching type anchor. I didn't bother this late at night doing the math, but we are talking another 200 lbs of dead weight right on your bow.
I have had best results with soft 8-plait rope. Everything else I tried knocks up even worse and is useless. Don't forget, unless you are a rope splicing magician, you will need to purchase expensive pre-spliced anchor/chain rodes and you will need to find the correct gypsy for the rope diameter/type and chain diameter/gauge. Assuming you tie-off the bitter end so as not to lose the rode, you will not be able to toss an anchor ball and end of rope overboard in an emergency. So be prepared to cut your line if needed to save your life, I have been there!
There are other options for a boat your size. Someone mentioned a spot-lock type trolling motor. You should be able to get by with a shorter length and lower powered version. There are several to choose from now, including a recent entry from Power Pole (great customer service by the way,) and I hear even Garmin might be in the market now. You will most likely need 24 V power supply (considerable extra weight unless you spend upwards of $1,000 or more on Li batteries). And unless you purchase the self launching/recovery models, I think MK has one, you will still need to deploy and recover the trolling motor (and especially remember to recover it before speeding away!). Finally, and I think this is the best option for your boat, you could use an anchor ball and puller. You can learn this technique after a few tries. Yes you will still recover rope by hand but you will not be lifting any significant weight. Well almost finally, I suppose you could drag a Fortress-type anchor and stern anchor but I think that is unsafe in large boats and borderline DUMB in an 18' boat.
Recoil Rob
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I have looked into the new Garmin for the 180. On my 180 I will have to remove bow rail to mount it. The bow of the 180 is 36" above the WL (this drawing is from GW).
Garmin says that 36" requires their 75" Kraken, $4100 for the white, saltwater version. Add about $1000 for a Lithium 24V battery and we are well over $5000 without the install and cables.
Sure seems handy though...just waiting on reports since they just started shipping them in October and they only have 2 service centers in the US.
Garmin says that 36" requires their 75" Kraken, $4100 for the white, saltwater version. Add about $1000 for a Lithium 24V battery and we are well over $5000 without the install and cables.
Sure seems handy though...just waiting on reports since they just started shipping them in October and they only have 2 service centers in the US.
I have seen several photos, none with much detail, where owners have hinged a portion of their rail to allow installation of trolling motors. You might be able to do something similar.
Before purchase, you should confirm that the trolling motor you choose doesn't need an external 3-axis-type heading sensor for full-function capability. I don't know the answer, but all the boats I have fished that have trolling motors, also have satellite heading sensors for their radar and sounders. I assume, but don't know, the trolling motors use heading data from those devices for improved performance.
Have you tried using an anchor ball to pull you anchor? If not, you might give it a try. You should be able to purchase ball, stainless steel slide-ring/clip, and short connecting rope for under $100 (pre-COVID inflation guess). It really is quick and easy on boats of your size.
Before purchase, you should confirm that the trolling motor you choose doesn't need an external 3-axis-type heading sensor for full-function capability. I don't know the answer, but all the boats I have fished that have trolling motors, also have satellite heading sensors for their radar and sounders. I assume, but don't know, the trolling motors use heading data from those devices for improved performance.
Have you tried using an anchor ball to pull you anchor? If not, you might give it a try. You should be able to purchase ball, stainless steel slide-ring/clip, and short connecting rope for under $100 (pre-COVID inflation guess). It really is quick and easy on boats of your size.
Sardinia306Canyon
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The Kraken makes sense only if you have other Garmin gear, if you use other brand electronics you probably should choose a other brand.
I would love to have a TM and as I am a Garminist it would be a Kraken, but in this moment I am in the market for a new boat so not sure that I find a TM strong enough to hold it in place. I checked a Albemarle 31 with a Rhoda and owner said that he burned the first but second works well as long no strong current or wind,
but on your boat a TM would work very well.
I suggest you to forget the windlass on your small boat, just get used to use a anchor ball,
they work great, are cheap and you will not have to lift up heavy anchors and chains if that is a issue.
Just make sure that you have about 25-30 ft of chain and a shackle with inside hex bolt to avoid that shackle get stuck on the anchor ball ring.
You need the chain to hang downwards and lock the anchor in the Ring once arrived.
It's really super easy to use, did that for years also300-400 ft deep.
Chris
I would love to have a TM and as I am a Garminist it would be a Kraken, but in this moment I am in the market for a new boat so not sure that I find a TM strong enough to hold it in place. I checked a Albemarle 31 with a Rhoda and owner said that he burned the first but second works well as long no strong current or wind,
but on your boat a TM would work very well.
I suggest you to forget the windlass on your small boat, just get used to use a anchor ball,
they work great, are cheap and you will not have to lift up heavy anchors and chains if that is a issue.
Just make sure that you have about 25-30 ft of chain and a shackle with inside hex bolt to avoid that shackle get stuck on the anchor ball ring.
You need the chain to hang downwards and lock the anchor in the Ring once arrived.
It's really super easy to use, did that for years also300-400 ft deep.
Chris
Sardinia306Canyon
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FYI, TM's on Bigger Boats...I haven't fished it, but I know of a 47' CC cat boat with two RD's and I hear it holds. A friend recently took delivery of a 33-ish CC cat also with 2 RD's and he says it holds very well. I have also heard of single RD's on larger boats and in stiff wind/current conditions they are able to hold with one engine in gear. All the guys I fish with on these go-fast CC, leave all three or four engines running ,even overnight, so battery draw doesn't appear to be of major concern. One 40+ boat I fished didn't have TM but the Yami HM held very well. I am worried that my 330 Express has too much topside profile for TM to hold in stiff wind but I have seen at least one set up. My old 250's will eventually corrode away and I will need to repower and I will likely go with digital controls and have spot-hold capability.
Sardinia306Canyon
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Actually I have two boats on the shopping list, a 306 Bimini/Canyon and a Carolina Classic 35, a TM would work well on the 306 Bimini/Canyon but I fear no way with the CC 35 as its a fat and heavy boat. Yes, I would like to have a TM to keep long days of idling with the engines on, shifting in and out and also mainly for the silence of a TM and that is the reason that SpotLock or similar systems are not for me, not because they don't work, because it would drive me nuts that the engines continuously shift ad turn, I prefer to do that by my self.
I deep drop very deep, 200-4000 ft deep and there is no way to do that with more than 10 knots of wind or 1 knot of current, but a TM would make conditions like that much more comfortable and should hold the boat in position and particularly keep the bow in the wind to make the depth sounder read better.
However, when I bought a new boat I will see if it's possible to reasonable use a TM and decide then if I buy one.
Chris
I deep drop very deep, 200-4000 ft deep and there is no way to do that with more than 10 knots of wind or 1 knot of current, but a TM would make conditions like that much more comfortable and should hold the boat in position and particularly keep the bow in the wind to make the depth sounder read better.
However, when I bought a new boat I will see if it's possible to reasonable use a TM and decide then if I buy one.
Chris
I have cut seals and destroyed lower units running home without oil but, I have never actually worn a lower unit out. I am worried that constant spot/hold shifting can't be good for life of lower units? And yes the noise is very annoying, more so when nothing is biting!