Hi all I have a 1999 XO-66 yamaha 200 2 stroke feul injection ... I was wondering do i have to take off the air cover and fog the throttle body being there is no carbs.. A friend of mine told me ,just take out the spark plugs and fog the cylinders. thanks
winterizing 2 stroke yamaha
- Thread starter cool change
- Start date
Doc Stressor
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
- Messages
- 1,186
- Reaction score
- 295
- Points
- 83
- Location
- Homosassa, FL
- Model
- Seafarer
I remove the air cover and spray fogging oil in - usually do it with two cans... sort of a "double fire" method with one can working on the top three holes, and the other can doing the bottom three so I get better coverage. I think it's still important to coat all of the internal, METAL, passageways and such with the fogging oil.
the reason he said do not fog the engine is because you dont want to gunk up the fuel injectors.. just spray the cylinders Is that correct ? This is my first fuel injection motor,and i also thought you had to fog the engine..im a little confused so any advise is appreciated :hmm thank u..
There is some truth to that, but not in relation to the OX66. Something like newer F-series with a single throttle bore, yes. But it's still not about the injectors. I'm not completely clear on this, but it's something about the fluid collecting in a certain spot and possibly causing a hydrolock or bent rods.
FYI, after you spray in the front while it's running, you can still go ahead and spray the fluid (or a teaspoon or two of regular oil) directly into the cylinders through the plug holes. And then rotate the flywheel by hand a few revs or bump the engine with the key (kill switch off). That will add extra protection for the cylinders and rings to keep them from sticking.
FYI, after you spray in the front while it's running, you can still go ahead and spray the fluid (or a teaspoon or two of regular oil) directly into the cylinders through the plug holes. And then rotate the flywheel by hand a few revs or bump the engine with the key (kill switch off). That will add extra protection for the cylinders and rings to keep them from sticking.
I ran one of those motors for years, new to 1500 hours.
Just fog the cylinders, no need to fog the air intake.
Run stabilized fuel through it while you are flushing
Drain the VST
Also, if you want- clean the O2 sensor (or in the spring)
Fuel filters
LU oil,
Grease fittings
Prop shaft- check for fishing line, re-grease.
Very light coating of oil on power head (wd 40 or similar) and connections
White spray grease on battery connections, shift and throttle cables and slides
I always did water pump every second season.
Just fog the cylinders, no need to fog the air intake.
Run stabilized fuel through it while you are flushing
Drain the VST
Also, if you want- clean the O2 sensor (or in the spring)
Fuel filters
LU oil,
Grease fittings
Prop shaft- check for fishing line, re-grease.
Very light coating of oil on power head (wd 40 or similar) and connections
White spray grease on battery connections, shift and throttle cables and slides
I always did water pump every second season.
thank u harpoon... that is what a friend said also no need to fog throotle body intake, just fog cylinders... also should i change water seperator and fuel filter now or in the spring.. my red ring in the fuel cup is about a quarter way up.. thank u
cool change said:
If you look at the fuel filter, there is a lip that the red ring rests on. It is a bit above the bottom. Normally, there should be very little to no water in that filter bowl. If the ring is floating above the lip, there is water and that may mean that there is water in your gas.
I too, drain the VST tank since any gunk that is on the bottom will quickly get sucked into the VST screen when you start up next season. In the spring be sure to use the primer bulb to pre fill the vst tank. That motor does not like to run dry.
I also drain the fuel bowl for the same reason and to inspect the filter element. I change those every few seasons depending on what I see when I winterize.
I fog the cylinders but one trick is to pull all the plugs, spray the cylinders and then manually rotate the flywheel one turn. That makes the pistons that were up, now down and vice versa. Than fog all cylinders again. That insures that the oil gets on all the cylinder walls. Then I rotate a turn and a half and reinstall the plugs.
In the spring, I start the motor on the old plugs and run till warm so that the fogging oils gets burned off. If plugs get gummed up, it will be the old plugs. I can easily get two or more seasons out of plugs assuming the motor ran to spec. When you remove the plugs for fogging, keep them in order and take a look at how they are. They should be grey, not gummed up, and not burnt. If all are a bit off, that is not a bad thing necessarily but if one is a lot worse than the others, something is amiss.
thank u harpoon your experience is very helpful... my red ring is above the lip, if that is water is that a major concern.. also should i dump it out and put fresh fuel in or just leave it empty for the winter and in the spring put a new filter in
What's the reasoning behind NOT wanting to further/better protect the metal components on the intake side of things? Isn't it generally agreed that it's a good idea to coat the exterior of the engine block with an anti-corrosion sealant/protectant such as Boeshield T9, CRC or, at a minimum, WD40? The outside of the engine block is painted, the inside is bare aluminum........
Forget about WD40. It is not a protectorant nor is it a lubricant per se.DennisG01 said:
If your power-head has a lot of salt buildup, it is a good idea to wash it. A gentle spray of water is in order since a strong spray may force water into things that you don't want to get wet. I will use a mild scrubbing brush if needed to remove salt buildup and/or rust . Thoroughly dry off everything especially if you are going to spray an inhibitor.
Although sometime I spray Boeshield or CRC, the trick is to use it sparingly. Too much can make your power head look like a caramel candy and a sticky one at that.
The main thing I was getting at was in regards to the intake area/metal/protecting it, but I agree COMPLETELY with what you said about WD-40 - I was only using that as an example. It would, however, be better than nothing.
That's good way to put it... "Caramel apple". I like that analogy.
Merc (like I'm sure other manufaturer's) has their own version of T9 and I just recently sprayed some on a piece of metal. I came back a week later and it was waxy feeling, but totally dry to the touch. It felt like a candle. I was able to scrape it off with finger nail, but other than that it was completely "unsticky". I don't know if the heat of the engine will change it, or not, but I may try that on one side of the engine and continue with T9 on the other. Luckily, though, there's no sand where my boat is and it's always moored offshore so the dust/sand/stuff doesn't really get to my engine.
That's good way to put it... "Caramel apple". I like that analogy.
Merc (like I'm sure other manufaturer's) has their own version of T9 and I just recently sprayed some on a piece of metal. I came back a week later and it was waxy feeling, but totally dry to the touch. It felt like a candle. I was able to scrape it off with finger nail, but other than that it was completely "unsticky". I don't know if the heat of the engine will change it, or not, but I may try that on one side of the engine and continue with T9 on the other. Luckily, though, there's no sand where my boat is and it's always moored offshore so the dust/sand/stuff doesn't really get to my engine.I see what ur saying and it makes cents, but I didn't fog my throotle body just my cylinders ,my question was should I dump the gas out of my water separator, and my fuel filter and leave it emtey for the winter or put gas back in the filters thank u
As stated, I recommend you drain the VST tank. I do not drain the separator. I do empty the fuel filter (motor mounted one)cool change said:
Of course if you find water in the VST fluid or the fuel filter, then you need to check the tank for water and chuck the separator. Changing them without checking the tank may lead to them refilling with water.
To be clear, I don't think it's "the end of the world" if you don't fog the intake area. Just that it's an extra (extremely easy and cheap, too) step that can be taken to even further protect your investment.
Cool, you can't go wrong by dumping the fuel. But I have found that as long as I properly treat the fuel (and I usually treat a little heavier than "prescribed") I have had absolutely zero fuel issues. I run fuel treatments (Startron and RF Plus) all the time, not just at winterizing time. This is not just for my Grady... This is for roughly two dozen boats/engines between myself, my family and friends, and some that I work on (side job). It also takes into account every mower, weedwhacker, snowblower, chainsaw, etc that I and my family have.
With this OX66, I started by removing the VST tank to inspect it. It has always been spotless. I now will only drain it, to double check, into a clear jar to check fuel quality and for contaminants. If anything is suspect, then I'll remove it.
While I don't believe the boat-mounted fuel filter "needs" to be changed every year, I would recommend doing that every year since you can't check it for contaminants. Dump the filter into a clean jar for that. Those filters are cheap enough that it's not worth putting the old one back on. However, I have since installed a vacuum gauge on the filter head and will now only change it when it's needed.
If you haven't removed the VST tank and checked it's filter condition, I would recommend doing that. At least that way you know, for sure, how it's doing and have a "baseline".
Cool, you can't go wrong by dumping the fuel. But I have found that as long as I properly treat the fuel (and I usually treat a little heavier than "prescribed") I have had absolutely zero fuel issues. I run fuel treatments (Startron and RF Plus) all the time, not just at winterizing time. This is not just for my Grady... This is for roughly two dozen boats/engines between myself, my family and friends, and some that I work on (side job). It also takes into account every mower, weedwhacker, snowblower, chainsaw, etc that I and my family have.
With this OX66, I started by removing the VST tank to inspect it. It has always been spotless. I now will only drain it, to double check, into a clear jar to check fuel quality and for contaminants. If anything is suspect, then I'll remove it.
While I don't believe the boat-mounted fuel filter "needs" to be changed every year, I would recommend doing that every year since you can't check it for contaminants. Dump the filter into a clean jar for that. Those filters are cheap enough that it's not worth putting the old one back on. However, I have since installed a vacuum gauge on the filter head and will now only change it when it's needed.
If you haven't removed the VST tank and checked it's filter condition, I would recommend doing that. At least that way you know, for sure, how it's doing and have a "baseline".
DennisG01 said:
Dennis,
I agree with your recommendations but might add that if one plans on inspecting the VST filter and doesn't know when it was serviced last, he or she should but a new VST cap gasket (o-ring) and screen. If you are going through all the work, you might as well swap the parts. After you find out how much the screen and the o-ring cost, one may be more agreeable to a longer service interval
seasick said:Dennis,
I agree with your recommendations but might add that if one plans on inspecting the VST filter and doesn't know when it was serviced last, he or she should but a new VST cap gasket (o-ring) and screen. If you are going through all the work, you might as well swap the parts. After you find out how much the screen and the o-ring cost, one may be more agreeable to a longer service interval
Agree!
Gman25
GreatGrady Captain
FWIW i was told not to drain the VTS tank. Maybe reach out to yamaha to get the latest recommendation