winterizing grady (mid-atlantic area)

[grady33]

Thought I’d double check to make sure I’m winterizing my Grady correctly and not missing anything. Boat is a Grady 272 with twin Yam 225's EFI's and here is what I do -

• Remove everything off boat (inc cushions around stern) and store inside.
• Empty Fresh Water system (inc hot water tank) and add several gallons of Pink nontoxic Antifreeze. Run through all outlets including the windshield wiper. (easy to forget).
• Pump out holding tank and add antifreeze. (is there anything I can add to keep the unit from ceasing up?)
• Change lower unit oil (something I did in the Spring). Can this wait till then?
• Add fuel stabilizer (tanks are kept full). I use about two of the Ethanol Sta-Bill 32 oz for roughly 200 gallons. Know it probably is more than needed but what the heck – it says more won’t hurt.
• Remove spark plugs and fog both engines. Crank engines quickly a few times and then replace plugs. New plugs go in after I run in the Spring.
• Spray engine with CRC but not around the o2 sensor. (Will clean o2 sensor and VST filters in spring after running a bit).
• Remove props and grease fittings and store inside.
• Clean & wax everything.

Boat is kept on lift during winter months. Am I missing anything?

Thanks,

 

[BobP]

Good list -

Leave open the SW washdown cockpit faucet, and leave open the thru hull valve, run SW pump for 2-3 seconds.

Check motor and tab anodes, replace accordingly.

As far as lower unit goes, presuming no heavy water contamination in gearbox, doesn't matter if waiting until spring.

Check battery water level and add water accordingly and then fully charge, and then disconnect leads if no reason for power, unless you can periodically charge them.

If you have A/C, have to prepare it also.

 

[grady33]

Thanks for the additions!

 

[cdwood]

Heard or read something about acid in the lower unit oil being a good reason to change it at the end of the season. Anybody know more about this?

 

[Stonewall]

Don't know about the acid, but I would loosen the bottom screw on the lower unit and let out a little fluid. If it is nice and dark its OK. If its milky then there is water in the oil and it will freeze and could crack your lower units over the winter. Always check them.

 

[Jas]

Good list, thanks.

I also pull stern drain plug, open the deck hatches and then rinse out around the gas tanks with fresh water. Doesn't have to be done for winterization but good to do when you have boat tilted and the drain plug out.

 

[Hookup1]

Winterizing

You need to by-pass the water heater to winterize the hot water side (or fill it completly with pink antifreeze - not recommended). Then drain the water heater completly.

They fill from the bottom and exit the top.

 

[jjbskisail]

It is recommended by YAMAHA that the oil reservoir tanks be stored full so that moisture from condensation does not collect in the tank(s).

 

[reelserious]

Don't forget the shower sump, fuel water separators and fuel filters..

 

[Parthery]

Covering the boat? Make sure that the cover is reinforced and has support at major areas where snow and ice can pool. Also, can your lift handle the extra weight that it will incur during a blizzard?

A good cleaning and coat of wax now can make spring cleaning that much easier.

 

[Wally World]

I have never winterized a Hot Water Heater, first year with new boat. I have a 2002 330 Express. Any help or info would be appreciated. What tools or tricks to do this will I need?

 

[DennisG01]

I have never winterized a Hot Water Heater, first year with new boat. I have a 2002 330 Express. Any help or info would be appreciated. What tools or tricks to do this will I need?

Since this thread is a few years old, I'll just go right to this post.

First, don't pump AF through it - it can only cause problems next year. All you need to do is drain it via the drain valve. BUT, you'll need to bypass it so that when you pump AF through your cold water line, it doesn't go into the HWH. This can be as simple as removing the cold and hot lines from the heater and tieing them together. Or you could install a bypass kit for future winters.

I'm coming from a Sea Ray background, so I'm taking a little liberty here and assume it's probably hooked up basically the same, meaning using PEX-type (plastic) lines. A short length of garden hose (with clamps) will fit nicely over the lines if the fittings are quick-disconnect. If they're screw-on fittings, get two male 90* pipe-to-barb fittings from Home Depot and also a 1' length of clear vinyl hose to connect the two barbs (no clamps needed if it fits tight enough).

Now, is your heater hooked up to the engine or does it only make hot water via shore power? If it's hooked up to the engine, remove the hoses (I usually do it from the engine side) and drain them (you can blow through them by mouth) and then backfill with AF. To be totally honest, I don't know if this is even an option with outboards (engine heating).