Wiring radar to fuse panel

[quantase]

I’m planning to install the Garmin fantom and a heading sensor. I’m new to wiring on boats, but not in homes. I see on my panel (bluesea system -12) that each slot is taken up besides on the side near the negative. I’m wondering where to hook up the radar power cord (with the inline 7.5A fuse) to. I’ve attached a pic for people to view and offer guidance. I would also like to put the radar on a toggle switch at the helm as well so that I can turn it off and on and not have the radar on continuous, so any guidance in doing that with pics would be helpful! Thanks!

 

[Hookup1]

I just installed my GMR18 Fathom. I cut the power cord to the correct length and wired directly into the fuse block (ring terminals). If there are no open fuses on your fuse block splice the inline fuse back on and use ring connectors to go directly to the large power and ground.

If you are using a SteadyCast heading sensor that connects to the NEMA2000 buss which supplies power as well as data connections. Same for the GPS24xd.

 

[SkunkBoat]

The radar does not need a switch. The menu on your Garmin mfd will have a Xmit on/off. The default state is Standby.
If you have no power to your radar the Garmin network will not know you have a radar. So if you use a switch you won't see any radar menus unless you have the power switch on.

You should have a switch on the Main feed to your under-dash fuse panel. That would turn EVERYTHING off. That could be the Battery switch in your setup. Ideally you would have a switchable on/off/breaker.

You can run the power cables (with 7.5A inline fuse on positive) directly to the main feed (Red and Black)of the fuse panel.
I am assuming that large red wire comes directly from the breaker near the battery?
follow that back.
Sometimes (in older Gradys) the fuse panel under the dash is fed from a pair of + and - terminal buses which are fed from the breaker at the battery. You could go directly to that also.

Some might be tempted to feed the radar power from the fuse panel in the E-box. Often the E-box fuse panel was fed with 10 guage wire.
I would recomend running the cable down to where the main feed comes in under the dash. (That appears to be what your photo shows)


PS
I really don't like that carpet under the fuse panel. Several times I have seen a fuse panel melted behind a fuse that had corroded blades.

 

[Fishtales]

You could put a 2nd small fuse panel next to the existing and jumper the power to it from the feed of the existing (use ring connectors as done with your existing). Then you'd have plenty of extra fuses for expansion.

 

[seasick]

I’m planning to install the Garmin fantom and a heading sensor. I’m new to wiring on boats, but not in homes. I see on my panel (bluesea system -12) that each slot is taken up besides on the side near the negative. I’m wondering where to hook up the radar power cord (with the inline 7.5A fuse) to. I’ve attached a pic for people to view and offer guidance. I would also like to put the radar on a toggle switch at the helm as well so that I can turn it off and on and not have the radar on continuous, so any guidance in doing that with pics would be helpful! Thanks!

Do you have and spare switch positions ( perhaps labelled AUX and not connected to anything?)

 

[quantase]

On my switch panel I do have some Aux switches that are there for expansion; however, in the fuse panel, each of the slots are filled. I do like the idea of maybe adding a 2nd fuse panel beside it like the existing fuse panel for future expansion. Does anyone see any issues with me placing jumpers (10AWG) on top from the existing negative and the positive terminals to the corresponding new fuse panel terminals? Then use one slot (along with inline 7.5A fuse) for the Garmin fantom 24x?

I guess another option could be to place the positive connector from the radar on top of the occupied positive lead (10AWG) and the negative connector from the radar to one of the empty negative slots on the left of the fuse panel. I don’t usually like to place two connectors in the same slot, but would like to hear from others. Thanks!

 

[Hookup1]

I would do that - put the radar with inline fuse on the large red and large black.

You could add the fuse block too and wire the same way. 10awg wire is good for 30 amps. If you have the access and expect to add more electronics put the fuse block in.

On my boat I have a fuse block under the helm, one in the overhead electronics box and one in the console glove box/electronics box.

 

[seasick]

On my switch panel I do have some Aux switches that are there for expansion; however, in the fuse panel, each of the slots are filled. I do like the idea of maybe adding a 2nd fuse panel beside it like the existing fuse panel for future expansion. Does anyone see any issues with me placing jumpers (10AWG) on top from the existing negative and the positive terminals to the corresponding new fuse panel terminals? Then use one slot (along with inline 7.5A fuse) for the Garmin fantom 24x?

I guess another option could be to place the positive connector from the radar on top of the occupied positive lead (10AWG) and the negative connector from the radar to one of the empty negative slots on the left of the fuse panel. I don’t usually like to place two connectors in the same slot, but would like to hear from others. Thanks!

Do your switches have corresponding breakers?
Do you know if the AUX positions actually power anything?
If one is free, it could be used.
If I read your possible plan correctly, you are asking about daisy chaining a secondary fuse block off of the main feed of the primary fuse block. That will work but bear in mind that your total amp draw on all circuits cant be more than about 89% or so of the rating for the accessory breaker (red button maybe) at the battery switch location. In addition if the feed from that breaker aft is 10 gauge, you probably don't need 10g between the primary and secondary fuse blocks but it won't hurt.

You did mention that you would like to be able turn turn on and off the radar. If you do the second fuse panel, you would need to add a switch somewhere.
I would spend a little time determining if one of the AUX positions is free and trace its power source ( maybe one of the fuses or maybe a separated breaker )

 

[DennisG01]

Since you have unused aux switches on your dash, they are most likely using one of the fused slots in your breakers panel. Well, actually, they HAVE to be. Either that or there is a secondary fuse panel somewhere else that they are getting power from. Figure out what fuse is feeding one of your unused aux switches (check for power at switch with/without fuse in place) and simply remove that lead and put your radar lead there, instead. Your owner's manual may have info on what fuse does what, as well.

This all making an assumption about your aux switches since we don't know what boat you have. If your switches have resettable breakers at the helm then that negates this line of thinking .

FYI... you should really know what each fuse goes to. If you don't have your manual, make your own fuse diagram/list

There would be nothing wrong, however, with pulling power directly from the power post on the fuse panel.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I can't fully answer the OPs question without seeing how everything is fed from the battery. I will say, you could go directly to the terminals that have the 6 gauge wire with your inline fuse. If you do, put the radar's terminals on top of the 6 gauge, not under it.

I looked at the 2022 OM for a 235. It has a typical Helm "accessory switch panel" with breakers and switches for the typical things (Nav lights, horn, wiper, FW, Livewell, Washdown, manual Fwd & Aft bilge, etc.)

It also has a "fuse block" which the OP has pictured. This would have things like VHF, Sonar, Chartplotter/MFD, NMEA2k power, radar, Accy12v/USB, stereo, cabin lights (and other lights that have their own built in switches), trim tab power, possibly Head pump/control/macerator, and a feed to the upper e-box fuse panel if it has one.

Unfortunately, the new Grady manual does not show any kind of wiring layout. It states there is 6 gauge feed to the Accessory Panel(helm switch panel) comes from a 40A or 50A red button breaker near the battery.
It does not describe the feed to the fuse block. The OPs picture looks like 6 gauge to the fuse block. Where does it come from? Also, is the Accessory switch panel (the power to all of the breakers) truly fed with 6 gauge wire?

It appears that there are no longer terminal blocks as we are used to seeing in older Gradys. My older Grady used 6 gauge to terminal blocks.
From there, a single 10 gauge feeds all breakers of the switch panel and 10 gauge to feed the under-dash fuse block and 10 gauge up to the e-box. Heavy current draws like refridge, and Groco Head control had inline fuse/breaker fed from the terminal block(which had the 6 gauge main feed). IMO, the short 10 gauge feeds to panels weren't ideal and the long one to the upper e-box was always problematic. That 10 gauge wire is responsible for the bulk of voltage drop because all of the current draw of the panel goes thru that wire. The more you turn on, the higher the drop.

 

[quantase]

I looked at my manual, and it does not give a wire diagram. I will need to do one myself. From hearing from others here, it sounds like these are the following options that will be effective without much power drop or hazardous. Is this right?

1) that if I do put a second fuse panel, then use 6 AWG jumpers (instead of 10AWG) to positive and negative terminals on the existing fuse panel to supply power to radar and I'll have future expansion.

2) connect radar power cable with the 7.5A inline fuse (planning to upgrade the 7.5A inline fuse to a regular ATO size fuse instead of the mini) onto existing positive and negative terminals of fuse panel.

3) after seeing and making my own wire diagram, any Aux switches on helm panel that are not being used (but hooked up on the existing fuse panel), place positive lead with inline fuse to the positive 6AWG terminal and the negative lead to one of the "unused" slots.

Thanks.

 

[DennisG01]

I looked at my manual, and it does not give a wire diagram. I will need to do one myself. From hearing from others here, it sounds like these are the following options that will be effective without much power drop or hazardous. Is this right?

1) that if I do put a second fuse panel, then use 6 AWG jumpers (instead of 10AWG) to positive and negative terminals on the existing fuse panel to supply power to radar and I'll have future expansion.

10g will be MORE than adequate for a number of electronic items in the future. That said, it doesn't hurt to go bigger. But 6g is definitely overkill. Get good quality marine wire (tinned) like Ancor.

2) connect radar power cable with the 7.5A inline fuse (planning to upgrade the 7.5A inline fuse to a regular ATO size fuse instead of the mini) onto existing positive and negative terminals of fuse panel.

A fuse is a fuse - they'll all work

3) after seeing and making my own wire diagram, any Aux switches on helm panel that are not being used (but hooked up on the existing fuse panel), place positive lead with inline fuse to the positive 6AWG terminal and the negative lead to one of the "unused" slots.

No. You'll remove the spade connector from the aux's fuse and put your radar's spade connector on there, instead, along with a 7.5 amp fuse. Radar's negative goes to the negative bus - you have empty screws, but it's OK to stack if you need to down the line. OR... use the existing aux switch as your "master" on/off for the radar... although it's kind of redundant since the radar has it's own on/off.

You mentioned you have experience with wiring so I'm purposefully not going into too much detail to avoid "talking" too much

Thanks.

 

[SkunkBoat]

1 yes--- The fact that it is already fed by 6 gauge is good. The fact that is full is not. That Blue Seas panel is not linkable to another one so you would have to use jumper wires to a new panel. I would use 6 gauge if I had it. If you are going a few inches next to it, 10 gauge would be ok. Keep high currect circuits on the one fed by 6. I would spread some of the existing loads to the new panel. If you go with a new panel then cut off the inline fuse and connect the radar to a fuse slot on the panel.
Looking at the picture, I am wondering if they are feeding your switch panel breakers with the red 10 gauge wire on the white 25A fuse. I am assuming your helm switch panel has breakers. or...Do you have a panel in a hardtop?


2 yes changing to ATO size means you only need ATO spares...good idea...
3 The spare accy switch is already fed from its own breaker. if you want the radar switched, you could remove the inline fuse and connect to the switched terminal of the spare switch. You need to replace the breaker with a 7.5A breaker. The negative of the radar goes to the negative bus of all of the switches (wherever that might be) But again, I would not switch the radar. I have that same radar.I don't switch each electronic device separately. I use a main switch to cut all House 12V when leaving the boat.

 

[DennisG01]

2 yes changing to ATO size means you only need ATO spares...good idea...

Good point!

 

[wspitler]

Here is another point to consider. I have had several Garmin systems. When the radar is not powered and you power up the MFD’s and sonar, the MFD’s do not see radar therefore it is not a choice on your menu. I don’t know if powering the radar on will make the MFD recognize the radar if they have already been initialized. I seem to remember that they will not, which may require you to power down your MFD and reboot them to recognize the radar. I have been considering providing a switch to my radar so that at night I can turn it off. I note that the Fantom radar’s always make noise whether transmitting or not, therefore they must draw some amount of power in standby. For me to test my theory would require me digging behind the electronics panel so if anyone has a definitive answer I’d like to be educated.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Here is another point to consider. I have had several Garmin systems. When the radar is not powered and you power up the MFD’s and sonar, the MFD’s do not see radar therefore it is not a choice on your menu. I don’t know if powering the radar on will make the MFD recognize the radar if they have already been initialized. I seem to remember that they will not, which may require you to power down your MFD and reboot them to recognize the radar. I have been considering providing a switch to my radar so that at night I can turn it off. I note that the Fantom radar’s always make noise whether transmitting or not, therefore they must draw some amount of power in standby. For me to test my theory would require me digging behind the electronics panel so if anyone has a definitive answer I’d like to be educated.

I tried to make that point earlier in the thread. No point in switching the individual power to garmin network devices. The same happens with blackbox sonar.
Certainly ALL or most of the Garmin networked stuff is using some power while it is "Off" since is possible to turn it all on/off from one device. Definitely should kill House 12v to everything when not on the boat.

Its funny you say it makes noise in standby. I hadn't noticed or paid much attention to that. I only Xmit when I'm running in the dark or fog. You think its spinning all the time? probably is...I can't verify that right now. I had to take mine off the top to miss wires while hauling it to my driveway. I have not had any problem running Garmin stuff, VHF, AIS and lights while drifting all night on parallel batteries, motors off.
You can switch to 24 RPM vs 48 RPM to "save power".

On similar subject, the sonars default to the last choice of transmit on/off. When you pull your boat, don't forget to turn off the sonar(s) if you are going to play around with your chartplotter or radar.
Running transducers in the air for hours is not good for them. I wish Garmin didn't hide that setting so many menus in...

 

[wspitler]

I tried to make that point earlier in the thread. No point in switching the individual power to garmin network devices. The same happens with blackbox sonar.
Certainly ALL or most of the Garmin networked stuff is using some power while it is "Off" since is possible to turn it all on/off from one device. Definitely should kill House 12v to everything when not on the boat.

Its funny you say it makes noise in standby. I hadn't noticed or paid much attention to that. I only Xmit when I'm running in the dark or fog. You think its spinning all the time? probably is...I can't verify that right now. I had to take mine off the top to miss wires while hauling it to my driveway. I have not had any problem running Garmin stuff, VHF, AIS and lights while drifting all night on parallel batteries, motors off.
You can switch to 24 RPM vs 48 RPM to "save power".

On similar subject, the sonars default to the last choice of transmit on/off. When you pull your boat, don't forget to turn off the sonar(s) if you are going to play around with your chartplotter or radar.
Running transducers in the air for hours is not good for them. I wish Garmin didn't hide that setting so many menus in...

The noise it makes does not sound like spinning and when you go to transmit I seem to remember the MFD says “spinning up.” I only noticed it when I went up on the bow adrift and could hear it as I passed by the hardtop. I don’t remember my older GMR 18 making noise when in standby. I do remember it making a spinning up noise when you went to transmit and I don’t seem to recall that happening with my Fantom radar. These new solid state radars with no magnetrons may not actually spin, but it would seem they would have to. Good point on the sonar transmission out of the water to the transducer. I make a point of turning my sonar transmit off on both of my transducers before I get to the boatlift. I wonder if some of the failure rates that are talked about online with these newer transducers are a result of running them out of the water. unknowingly.

 

[SkunkBoat]

"when you go to transmit I seem to remember the MFD says “spinning up.” "

I was gonna say that.... but then I had a senior moment where I didn't want to say the wrong thing.

It definitely runs the network circuitry whenever there is power on the cord. Same as all the GPSxxxx MFDs and Black boxes.


"when I went up on the bow adrift and could hear it as I passed by the hardtop" hehehe you know you should not be there if its in Xmit

 

[wspitler]

I was gonna say that.... but then I had a senior moment where I didn't want to say the wrong thing.

It definitely runs the network circuitry whenever there is power on the cord. Same as all the GPSxxxx MFDs and Black boxes.


"when I went up on the bow adrift and could hear it as I passed by the hardtop" hehehe you know you should not be there if its in Xmit

Yes, well aware of that danger and the fact that it was “buzzing” had me concerned enough to go back and make certain it was in standby, which it was. Great system so far. Dual 1243xsv Fantom and GT-56 ducer

 

[quantase]

Thanks for mentioning the transducer. I am assuming the transducer is powered off whenever the boat is turned off and/or the battery selector is turned to the off position. I need to find how to turn it off and on in the menus on my 1243xsv just in case.