Work day - update and need help

[RussGW270]

So neither engine is peeing. We have confirmed that there is not a hole at the outlet of the pee line, no water at the actual line going TO the outlet.

We removed the sides of the inlet below as someone suggested and that did not help.

Thoughts?

Russ

 

[RussGW270]

Ok, looks like the valves for the pumps are siezed open. They cannot be budged.

The two I have checked are in the battery area on the transom. They are solid locked.

Probably a pain to replace.

 

[DennisG01]

Try attaching the hose to the muff and actually run the engine.

What pumps are you referring to?

 

[RussGW270]

We attached the muffs directly to the engines by removing the side also ran water thru the wash out, I am thinking the pee lines needed to be warmed up or not.

The valves are the ones in the pictures below. Currently checking the others now.

 

[RussGW270]

Seems the livewell valves work well

 

[Halfhitch]

That's the seacock valve and remote operator. It has nothing to do with the cooling water for your engines. They get their water from the pump in the lower unit. Remove the engine cowl and follow the rubber hose back from the pee fitting, removing the rubber hose at each connection. Shooting garden hose water through all hoses, fittings and such till you get back to the point where that tattletale hose connects to the cooling system. It may simply be a little salt build-up in a fitting . I keep a piece of weed trimmer line about a foot long in the boat to push into the pee fitting when it pees funny.

 

[seasick]

Put the hose on the muffs, start the engine and if no pee stream after 30 to 45 seconds, you need to look further. If your water volume is too low, the motor may not pee.
If when running water is coming out of the prop HUB, then the pump is working. If not, the motor will overheat ( alarm sounds)

 

[RussGW270]

Okay, tot the valves working and saw the tags. Did not think they were to the engine, we moved on to valves. Will get to the engines later again.

All the valves appear to work, but a couple could use replacing. The ones in the cabin floor are good.

Lights work, shore power works. Electrical outlets do not appear to work nor the microwave or fridge.
Pictures for you all...heh

 

[RussGW270]

That's the seacock valve and remote operator. It has nothing to do with the cooling water for your engines. They get their water from the pump in the lower unit. Remove the engine cowl and follow the rubber hose back from the pee fitting, removing the rubber hose at each connection. Shooting garden hose water through all hoses, fittings and such till you get back to the point where that tattletale hose connects to the cooling system. It may simply be a little salt build-up in a fitting . I keep a piece of weed trimmer line about a foot long in the boat to push into the pee fitting when it pees funny.

We ran wire through till it went into the engine and the pee outlet was clogged, but not through the hose. Will try again after we remove it all the way up and verify the hose is not clogged at the other end. Seems strange that both have the issue, so not assuming a problem till I can disassemble the entire hose. Lower unit appears fine.

 

[DennisG01]

You don't need to remove the drive pickup grates to run it on a hose. Although it's fine if you do. Nothing needs to "warm-up" in order for the engine to start peeing. As mentioned, though, it sometimes take a bit. The most important thing is not whether it's peeing, though. If the water is being pumped in (evidenced by less water escaping around the muffs) and you don't overheat, you're good. Then you can track down where the clog is.

It's pretty darn rare for a seacock to be bad. What it looks like on the outside - often green in color - doesn't affect the inside. In fact, the green color is actually protecting the bronze.

 

[Doc Stressor]

If the engines have been sitting around for a while, it's possible that both water pumps are weak. On any new-to-you boat, you should replace at least the impellors so that you know where you are starting from for service. Change them every 2 years if you fish offshore and every year if you run through shallows and might pick up mud and grit.

If you have grit in your tell-tale hose, it often collects up in the metal fuel cooler. I have had to take everything apart in order to get my tell-tail to work after sucking up a bunch of mud running up my friend's canal during a super low tide.

You can often free up seacocks by lubricating them from the top. Take off the pump and you should see the stainless steel ball valve. If it is badly corroded it will need to be replaced. But most of the time you can free it up by shooting some corrosion X on top of the valve and letting it sit overnight. After working it a few times, take an artist's brush and paint in some waterproof marine grease (the stuff you use for lubricating the tilt and steering zerks) and continue to work the handle. Try to cover all sides of the valve. Then you should be good to go for at least a few years. You need to work those seacocks every few months or they will eventually seize up again.

 

[RussGW270]

Ok, raised the trailer fenders a couple inches so I feel better there. Opted to not put the new stripes on until I have the hull professionally cleaned. I got a lot of the old glue off but it looks horrible, so will have it sanded down and buffed and a few cuts and cracks (hairlines) repaired then add decals.

May be going to the lake next Saturday to drop her in the water and see how she does.

Added the TX numbers.

Left the friggin bolts for the wd hitch in my garage so did not hook that up.

So, my to do list is test the pumps in the lake, get the hull cleaned professionally, possibly re-sanded and painted, we will see, and add all the safety stuff to the storage.

She looks like almost ready, we will see.

Still want a pro to take a closer look. Wish to hell I knew a GW person around here that really knew this boat and would sit with me and look it over, but feeling a lot better now that I got to dig into her access ports.

I will post a more lengthy post tomorrow with the questions I had.

Russ

 

[seasick]

The microwave works on AC; the main switch on the AC panel has to be on (if it is, the meter should read 120 volts). There is probably a switch on the AC side for the microwave also but it may not say microwave. The stove also works on AC. There is also probably a switch for the stove.On the AC side of the panel, you have to turn on the breaker/switch for the outlets if there is one..

The main battery switches have to be on for the 12 volts to be sent to the DC accessory panel and the main breaker/switch on that panel has to be on. The fridge probably works on DC or possible DC or AC' On the main power panel, you have to switch the breaker on for DC and the breaker/switch for fridge.

In summary, the main switch and appropriate switches on the AC panel have to be live for the AC powered devices to work.

The battery switches (maybe only one but turn on both for now until you know how they are wired) have to be on and the main 12v switch on the panel as well as the appropriate switches for the 12v accessories have to be on.


Also note that the fridge if Isotherm or similar type, probably doesn't make a lot of noise when running and takes a good while to cool so be patient.

I probably made this sound more complicated than it is.

 

[RussGW270]

Sorry, been busy heh. Microwave works, fridge is on so seeing if it works. Electrical outlets working. Above the long white switches is a switch that we needed to flip.

 

[RussGW270]

Ok, last update today. We figured out a LOT of things today. Looking into the access ports allowed me to understand and talk through the things the boat does and needs. I am in no way an expert, heh....but I feel a lot more confident now that I know where things run and how.

That being said, I have a LOT more to learn so that if something occurs, I can react well.

The pumps and valves are my chief concern, staying afloat heh. The two aft valves were very very stiff. I will study the info on those and debate how or if they can be repaired or fixed to function more smoothly.

The toilet, I want to understand that better as it is not something you can go, “hrm, let me see if that overboard pump works....in my yard...” lol, so will study that also.

The engines will be tested more in-depth. Like I have stated, I have owned nothing but Mercs to date, so this is a whole new world for me. I have the e-reader for the engines, but I want to get the obvious things resolved...minor, but start from a standard. One engine is a txrb and the other is a txrc. The txrb is missing a cap for the e-connector and a shroud for the top of the engine (there is a plastic shroud that covers the flywheel on top. They both look clean, other than some rust and debris I plan to clean out of the bottom of the cowling. Engines ran fine, just need to check the water flow later when we drop it in.

Anyway, leaving the boat there till the top is in as he has a shop and a massive winch setup that can lift the top easy.

Next year, he will help me remove the engines to properly repair the transom cap and build a stainless custom one.

Anyway, thank you all for the awesome help and input.

Russ

 

[DennisG01]

Seacocks... yes, in the future, make sure to exercise them every so often. In 99% of the cases, opening and closing the seacock a number of times (adding lube as mentioned, if needed) does the trick and allows it to open/close more easily. What YOU will likely need to do, though, is forego the extension handle for this 'exercise' and go right to the handle. Awkward, I know, but you'll get much more leverage on it. Try... just your hand... a length of pipe over the handle... a ratchet wrench inserted into the end of the handle (remove the extension... the hole in the end of the handle is typically square to accept a wratchet wrench). But, exercise it a bunch of times before you disassemble it.

What type of head system do you have (there multiple styles)? Seawater or fresh water flush? Type of flushing system? Separate holding tank? Teh good news is that these systems have been around for a long time and you can usually find manuals online - often right at the manufacturer's website (of which there are only a couple).

 

[RussGW270]

The boat is in San Antonio, so cannot look at the boat to tell exactly what it is. Let me see if I can tell from the pictures.

Welp, the pic is all I know atm. Will look through the paperwork, but I am sure it is written generic vs exact model, but will check.

I looked very closely at the dash. Debating what to do and how to handle that. Right now there is a 10" Garmin 7610xsv on it. I looked under the dash and I think the max I could cut the sides back to is like 19.5" and I think, to get a 10" and a 8" chartplotter side by side, I would need at least 20.5", so that is out of the question unless I revamp the design of that thing. So, the "next best thing" will be hanging a chartplotter from the electronics box, but then the splash could be an issue for it.

I hate putting it inside, not very ergo-dynamic looking up and down a lot.. heh, but.. eh.. is what it is. Side-by-side would be ideal, but not worth the cost I think.

If I add the enclosure, that could protect the chartplotter, but that will not be till next year.

So many choices.. not near enough money...lol

Anyway, now it is wait till the top is delivered.. and that could ship any day now.

We currently have July 27th scheduled for the install. When it arrives, I will load it on the trailer and haul it down there to setup in the workshop, then lift it up, and back the boat under it.

BTW - Also debated mounting the chartplotter above the gauges on the dash, but then it would be totally open to the splash. If you do not have a chartplotter installed on your dash, where is yours installed, to keep it safe and easy to see?


R

 

[DennisG01]

Nothing wrong with it being out in the open - the units, themselves are sealed with rubber gaskets and the connections are watertight. Just rinse it off when you get home. You can get crazy and use something like Saltaway if you want. Obviously it's best to keep them out of the elements - but they are meant to be out there - plenty of boats running around with absolutely no protection for their electronics and they fare well. Rinse the screen well and only use a VERY soft cloth (lightly).

What pic are you referring to ("the pic is all I know")?

 

[Lsquared]

as for the engines peeing. I have the same issue, asked the mechanic about it and my broker, they both said the same thing. for some reason the spiders love that hole and get up in there. take a pipe cleaner and clean it out. or when i run the engine at a higher rpm it cleans it right out.

i attached some pics of my electronics on your other thread.

 

[Hookup1]

Tell-tales on my F150's are always flakey on the hose - flush line or earmuffs.
In the water they are fine. Sometime first time start of season one won't work.
I keep a piece of 400 lb mono handy and snake them out. May have to pull cowling and remove hose to snake cooler too.