Yamaha F225 dry exhaust
- Thread starter mmiela
- Start date
We had our midsections and oil pumps done late this past winter when we purchased the boat with just less than 500hrs. The photos from the engine mechanical inspection were a bit more advanced than yours, with more speckle density.
I think the two biggest things we learned in our research of this issue is that 1) you can only tell if you're afflicted or not by taking a photo from the lower unit. It doesn't give you the whole picture and 2) the degree of affliction in the lower part of the exhaust passages can be misleading, relative to the rate of corrosion that might be occurring further up into the muffler, and at the mating surfaces of the power head.
Prudence before purchase we had the heads pulled off to confirm the mating surfaces and passages at the power head were intact and not impacted, and then we immediately had the offending parts removed by a Yamaha tech. I believe confidently that this bit of work, while expensive, is critical to the long term reliability and re-sale-ability of the boat (so long as it carries a pair of F225).
Guessing based on someone else's lay person opinion probably isn't advisable, but I'd suggest you have at least a season or two that you can use to set aside the appropriate funds, and shop for reliable service tech.
Bob.
I think the two biggest things we learned in our research of this issue is that 1) you can only tell if you're afflicted or not by taking a photo from the lower unit. It doesn't give you the whole picture and 2) the degree of affliction in the lower part of the exhaust passages can be misleading, relative to the rate of corrosion that might be occurring further up into the muffler, and at the mating surfaces of the power head.
Prudence before purchase we had the heads pulled off to confirm the mating surfaces and passages at the power head were intact and not impacted, and then we immediately had the offending parts removed by a Yamaha tech. I believe confidently that this bit of work, while expensive, is critical to the long term reliability and re-sale-ability of the boat (so long as it carries a pair of F225).
Guessing based on someone else's lay person opinion probably isn't advisable, but I'd suggest you have at least a season or two that you can use to set aside the appropriate funds, and shop for reliable service tech.
Bob.
Attachments
-
IMG_1541 copy.jpg -
IMG_1542 copy.jpg -
IMG_1093 copy.jpg -
IMG_1090 copy.jpg
I have been talking to a Yamaha dealer that I trust, he suggest that I do this over the winter and it isn't a matter of if it fails but when. While mine doesn't look all that bad I would rather do it while it hopefully is still only the exhaust and not creeping into the power head. 2k is better than 10 or even a complete repower. I will replace the oil pump as well since the head will be off.
Fishtales
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2005
- Messages
- 8,031
- Reaction score
- 1,286
- Points
- 113
did the same thing this past winter. one thing I learned is the corrosion looks worse in the scope pics than it actually is when torn down. mine were starting, but probably could have held off for 2 years or so. at that point, I just bit the bullet and did it. good idea to do the internal zincs, oil pump, speedy crank and a few other things that the mechanic will recommend when in that deep. both motors have been great since the work - no issues at all.
Something else to look for when you're doing the winter work. Yamaha, with their great materials engineering capabilities, has the copper tstat in contact with the aluminum block. In salt water, that means the block loses and gets corroded away. In my case, the hole squirted salt water into the intake causing internal corrosion and engine failure. New powerhead was needed. While working the engine, the Yam certified mechanic, who was quite good, found the dry corrosion in both engines, which was fixed.
Be sure to check the tstat housing to see if there's corrosion. My problem was on the stbd engine and I checked the port engine and there was definitely corrosion but not as bad as the stbd. I cleaned it thoroughly and applied Alumbond to the block, inside and out (to prevent the squirting into the intake) as well onto the tstat "arms" to prevent direct copper-aluminum contact.
I bought the boat with 170 hrs on it and this happened at 300 total hours. I have no idea if the previous owner flushed, but since I have owned the boat, it's flushed regularly, usually with salt-away. I attribute this to a piss-poor design. Something to definitely check whenever you're doing the tsats.
Be sure to check the tstat housing to see if there's corrosion. My problem was on the stbd engine and I checked the port engine and there was definitely corrosion but not as bad as the stbd. I cleaned it thoroughly and applied Alumbond to the block, inside and out (to prevent the squirting into the intake) as well onto the tstat "arms" to prevent direct copper-aluminum contact.
I bought the boat with 170 hrs on it and this happened at 300 total hours. I have no idea if the previous owner flushed, but since I have owned the boat, it's flushed regularly, usually with salt-away. I attribute this to a piss-poor design. Something to definitely check whenever you're doing the tsats.
