Yamaha Trim Gauge Doesn't Work

[DennisG01]

The digital display for the engine trim (little LCD bars that range from 1-5) is acting funky. When trimming the engine through it's full range, the only thing going on with the display is that it "looks" (even if engine is all the way down) like the engine is all the way up and the LCD bar at the top (#5) just blinks. HOWEVER, if I tilt the engine up fully, put the key in the "run" position w/o starting the engine, then manually push the trim sensor through it's range, the gauge works perfectly. I then visually watched as I lowered the engine and the engine does engage the trim sensor arm. I manually operated the trim sensor a number of times and every time the gauge displays the appropriate LCD bars according to where I am holding the sensor arm.

So... if the engine pushes the trim sensor arm the gauge continues to think the engine is up (and the top most LCD bar blinks). If I push the trim sensor arm, the gauge responds just fine. :bang

 

[wspitler]

Those sensors are bad about sticking. Spray it out with some low viscosity lube (CRC 222, LPS1), or maybe plastic safe contact cleaner and work it numerous times. I had to replace one of mine as I could not get it to follow the motor high enough. It should follow the motor quite high. Good Luck. You can find replacement sensors on line if you can't get it to follow reliably.

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks, Bill. It sounds like your issue may be a bit different than mine, though. In my case, it travels through it's "arc" just fine. It's just that when the engine pushes it down, it doesn't register on the gauge. When I push it down with my finger, it registers just fine on the gauge. For the life of me, I can not figure out why it makes a difference!

 

[Parthery]

It's one of two things...either the tip of the arm is broken off and no longer making contact with the motor arm, or the cam which the tip is supposed to touch is missing.

I'm not sure what year your motor is...some have the cam....some don't. If yours has the cam and it's missing, it's a $15 part. If you need a new sender because the tip broke off, it's a $150 part.

 

[DennisG01]

I physically watched the engine push the arm down and the arm is intact - it has a small, round cylindrical section that sticks out perpendicular to the main arm body and runs parallel to the transom (this is the piece that the engine actually contacts). I'll have to watch the engine all the way down to see if maybe the arm is slipping off. This should be a 2-second diagnosis and instead it's a head-scratcher!

 

[Parthery]

I don't think your motor has a cam for the sender....the 3.1 225s and 250s use a different bracket from the 150-200 (2.6) block. Mine doesn't have one either. Also, the 2000 "bracket 2" breakdown on the Yamaha parts fiche shows the sender, but doesn't show a cam.

I'll look at mine tonight and see if there is a tip on it...I'll post a pic if I can get a clear one.

 

[DennisG01]

I could be getting terminology mixed up, but mine looks like the one in this link: http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/up ... nsor_1.jpg

It's "#1" here: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamah ... parts.html

The silly thing is just a simple potentiometer. Looking in my service manual, the "check" for a failing trim sender is simply reading ohms at the quick connect inside the cowling - nothing else. But I know it's electrically sound since it works when I push it manually. The engine pushing it down "should" function just like me pushing it.

 

[wspitler]

Maybe the engine is pushing it at a slightly different angle and the variable potentiometer is being slightly twisted. As you probably know the Command Link has a software adjustment procedure as well, but that shouldn't matter.

 

[seasick]

I could be getting terminology mixed up, but mine looks like the one in this link: http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/up ... nsor_1.jpg

It's "#1" here: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamah ... parts.html

The silly thing is just a simple potentiometer. Looking in my service manual, the "check" for a failing trim sender is simply reading ohms at the quick connect inside the cowling - nothing else. But I know it's electrically sound since it works when I push it manually. The engine pushing it down "should" function just like me pushing it.

On some models of motors, the can that moves the sensor, gets loose and slips. If you push the sensor lever by hand all works OK but when you tilt the motor the cam slips on its shaft.