I have a 1999 HPDI 200 Yami. The trim position indicator on the gauge does not work. The previous owner said he purchased from a dealer the replacement part, whatever that was, and after installation still could not get it adjusted properly. Where does the gauge on the dash get its trim position info from the engine? There must something in or around the trim cylinders that measures the position of the engine.
Yamaha trim indicator
- Thread starter rcrudder
- Start date
Underneath the lower pan below the powerhead lives the trim sender, it is a plastic device that has a spring-loaded "finger" that moves up and down with the engines movement. Trim and tilt the motor up, the motor puts pressure on the finger and rotates it, opposite when trimming/tilting down...
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Cowling on...
Tilt the motor up...look at the tilt rod dead center and move your hand to the right...you will feel a plastic piece (black in color) with an arm that swings up and down. Turn the key on, and with a helper, move the arm and have the helper watch the gauge. If the trim readings change, then you are probably missing the $15 trim sender "cam" which is what the arm contacts and pivots against. If the gauge doesn't read, then the sender is likely bad. (about $150 part or so).
The good news is both the cam and sender are not difficult to replace. The cam is accessed from inside the boat with the motor tilted down. It mounts to the tilt tube and one screw holds it in place. The sender can also be replaced...two screws hold it in place (again - accessed from inside the boat). The wiring harness goes up into the motor pan through a grommet, then is underneath the front of the powerhead and around to a plug on the starboard side of the motor. Follow the wiring on the existing sender...unplug it...pull the wiring out...mount the new sender...run the wire and plug it in.
Tilt the motor up...look at the tilt rod dead center and move your hand to the right...you will feel a plastic piece (black in color) with an arm that swings up and down. Turn the key on, and with a helper, move the arm and have the helper watch the gauge. If the trim readings change, then you are probably missing the $15 trim sender "cam" which is what the arm contacts and pivots against. If the gauge doesn't read, then the sender is likely bad. (about $150 part or so).
The good news is both the cam and sender are not difficult to replace. The cam is accessed from inside the boat with the motor tilted down. It mounts to the tilt tube and one screw holds it in place. The sender can also be replaced...two screws hold it in place (again - accessed from inside the boat). The wiring harness goes up into the motor pan through a grommet, then is underneath the front of the powerhead and around to a plug on the starboard side of the motor. Follow the wiring on the existing sender...unplug it...pull the wiring out...mount the new sender...run the wire and plug it in.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
The pic in my signature was taken at Port Royale (formerly Lan Mar) on Lanier.
In addition to Lanier, we regularly go to Oconee, Sinclair, Allatoona as well as both the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of FL.
In addition to Lanier, we regularly go to Oconee, Sinclair, Allatoona as well as both the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of FL.
Does this fix also apply to a Johnson motor trim indicator? I seems to work but out of calibration.
Seabob4 and Parthery,
I have returned from the coast and my boat. I purchased the 15.00 replacement part and the mechanic assured me that the plastic arm was probably broken and to replace it with the metal unit. Imagine my dissappointment when I found that the plastic arm was not broken but in place and free from any salt or other corrosion.
The cam, the 150.00 part, moved freely also with no salt or corrosive build-up. I got an assistant to move the cam while I looked at the guage and there was no movement.
This is the important part. When the ignition key is initially turned to "on" the guage test properly with all six or so trim bars indicating. After a few seconds the bars reduce to one bar at the bottom. No matter where the motor is trimmed or where the assistant moves the cam, the one bar at the bottom of the guage remains. Here is the question, "Is everyone sure, positive, without doubt that this is the sender that is bad and not the wiring or guage?" I really don't want to toss 150.00 into that great hole in the water. Thanks for the help.
Bob
I have returned from the coast and my boat. I purchased the 15.00 replacement part and the mechanic assured me that the plastic arm was probably broken and to replace it with the metal unit. Imagine my dissappointment when I found that the plastic arm was not broken but in place and free from any salt or other corrosion.
The cam, the 150.00 part, moved freely also with no salt or corrosive build-up. I got an assistant to move the cam while I looked at the guage and there was no movement.
This is the important part. When the ignition key is initially turned to "on" the guage test properly with all six or so trim bars indicating. After a few seconds the bars reduce to one bar at the bottom. No matter where the motor is trimmed or where the assistant moves the cam, the one bar at the bottom of the guage remains. Here is the question, "Is everyone sure, positive, without doubt that this is the sender that is bad and not the wiring or guage?" I really don't want to toss 150.00 into that great hole in the water. Thanks for the help.
Bob
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
You could check the plug to make sure its connected tightly...follow the harness up into the pan and around to the starboard side of the motor...it plugs into the harness underneath the throttle/shift cables. Unplug the plug...clean the connections...and plug it back in. If it still doesn't work, then its likely the sender. Salt water is not kind to them.
I did that and sprayed it with Corrosion Block. It did not help. It will really be a pain to pull it out and take to a dealer or have the dealer on the water take a look and pay the price.
Still no luck on the trim indicator. I will check the continuity of the sender when I have a helper. Meanwhile, the fuel indicator will show full at most times. It only shows a slight indication of fuel quantity used when in truth it is almost empty. Any suggestions?
On a more positive note, I had a Garmin 740s installed in the console, not a flush mount. It has an internal antenna. I also had an Airmar P-66 depth and temp transom mounted transducer installed. It works great and with no hole in the hull as with a thru-hull installation. Grady White factory recommended that I not put a hole in the hull. A GW dealer said the same thing, but he would install the thru-hull if I insisted.
I had the marina shop do the installation in Pamama City where the boat is stored. The nearest GW dealer is about 70 miles away.
On a more positive note, I had a Garmin 740s installed in the console, not a flush mount. It has an internal antenna. I also had an Airmar P-66 depth and temp transom mounted transducer installed. It works great and with no hole in the hull as with a thru-hull installation. Grady White factory recommended that I not put a hole in the hull. A GW dealer said the same thing, but he would install the thru-hull if I insisted.
I had the marina shop do the installation in Pamama City where the boat is stored. The nearest GW dealer is about 70 miles away.
As for the fuel sender, check the ground at the sender. There should be a tab with a wire (Ground) attached to the tab. Clean and check. If that does not solve the problem, Contact http://www.wemausa.com/tank_sensors/tan ... ensors.htm and be sure to measure the old unit for length. Mine was 14 inches. The unit comes with screws that are METRIC. Be sure to check the thread in the tank or use your old screws or by new ones the same length. Be careful when mounting the new unit that it is lined up on ALL the screw holes. You can use a drill to loosen the screws. DO NOT use any electric drills or screwdrivers around the tank once the seal is broken. It's only 5 screws -- It's safer to use a manual for this job.
The initial 6 bar indication when powered on is the guage self check. It doesn't mean that the trim sender is working or not.
The trim sensor has a four pin connector. If you unplug the connector, you can test the resistance.
Using the connector from the sensor, measure resistance between the following pins:
Pink to Black, 580 ohms to 870 ohms
Orange to Black, 800 to 1200 ohms.
As you move the lever the readings should change across the above ranges.
Using the connector from the sensor, measure resistance between the following pins:
Pink to Black, 580 ohms to 870 ohms
Orange to Black, 800 to 1200 ohms.
As you move the lever the readings should change across the above ranges.
The movable part with arm (potentiometer) about tilt tube gets seized, just exercise it, take your time, it is slow to fully free up to full range motion. It is spring loaded and when fully cleared with move on its own. I used a silicone spray or (not WD40) soaked it good.
Just bend down low enough to look at tube. I used my finger to move the arm, may have been easier in tilt position to get to, don't recall.
Has not seized again in season since silicone spraying. Do it every season. I may be uses the 6-46 (sp?) spray.
Johnson's have a similar setup, the Johnsons/Evinrudes has a ratchet clicking selector type adjustment to adjust by hand, in similar location as Yamaha.
Yamaha to adjust -must loosen a screw and rotate it.
Just bend down low enough to look at tube. I used my finger to move the arm, may have been easier in tilt position to get to, don't recall.
Has not seized again in season since silicone spraying. Do it every season. I may be uses the 6-46 (sp?) spray.
Johnson's have a similar setup, the Johnsons/Evinrudes has a ratchet clicking selector type adjustment to adjust by hand, in similar location as Yamaha.
Yamaha to adjust -must loosen a screw and rotate it.