I have not painted the molding in question but do have some knowledge in this area. Be careful, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC and the like do not accept paint or for that fact adhesives well due to their surface chemistry. These materials do not have favorable molecular structures to allow firm bonding to the paint, PE, PP & PVC are too stable. To overcome this issue plastic materials are treated with what is called a corona discharge (a huge electrical flux field) which pulls oxygen molecules from the surface of the plastic in order to create bonding sites for the paint or adhesive to grab onto at a molecular level. (Have you ever noticed that paint spilled on a plastic drop cloth does not stick, this is untreated plastic. On the other hand the printing on your local grocery store’s plastic bag is accomplished by first treating the plastic with the corona discharge and then printing it.)
The paints that claim to bond to plastics must have a chemical means to accomplish this bonding. My suggestion is to test a sample and then put it through a few heating and cooling cycles consistent with your local environmental extremes (warming oven to frig and back) to make sure it does not crack. (Plastics have a relatively large coefficient of thermal expansion at a low temperature range) Then test its adhesion to the molding by scratching it lightly at first and then more aggressively to see how well it holds. My guess is that it will crack and will not hold up at the level you are going to want resulting is a bigger problem than you started with, but that is a guess. Good luck.
The paints that claim to bond to plastics must have a chemical means to accomplish this bonding. My suggestion is to test a sample and then put it through a few heating and cooling cycles consistent with your local environmental extremes (warming oven to frig and back) to make sure it does not crack. (Plastics have a relatively large coefficient of thermal expansion at a low temperature range) Then test its adhesion to the molding by scratching it lightly at first and then more aggressively to see how well it holds. My guess is that it will crack and will not hold up at the level you are going to want resulting is a bigger problem than you started with, but that is a guess. Good luck.
I had the same thoughts about painting the duratrim, and then after thinking about it more i abandoned the idea, due to the fact it will probably chip easily and look like crap.
What i am doing is taking some mahogany stock and replicating the trim.
you can get the mahogany at the lumber store, usually your local guy, not sure if home depot or lowes would have.
I got the 2"x4"x8' stock and will resaw on my friends band saw.
But after i got those i found out they had mahongany strips, 3/8"x 1 5/16"x8'
those would require less work, but too late for me.
I am also going to seal them and coat with Awl grip clear, I got this idea from ScottC at vectorled, it will look as good as varnish with out the maintenence. i imagine it will hold up better too, i.e. UV rays, and abrasion.
What i am doing is taking some mahogany stock and replicating the trim.
you can get the mahogany at the lumber store, usually your local guy, not sure if home depot or lowes would have.
I got the 2"x4"x8' stock and will resaw on my friends band saw.
But after i got those i found out they had mahongany strips, 3/8"x 1 5/16"x8'
those would require less work, but too late for me.
I am also going to seal them and coat with Awl grip clear, I got this idea from ScottC at vectorled, it will look as good as varnish with out the maintenence. i imagine it will hold up better too, i.e. UV rays, and abrasion.
megabytes said:
I agree, but that is only if they are slightly faded, mine were past that due to the UV's beatong them up.
I did try that trick, it didn't work for me.
Tbone, make sure you post some pics of that Mahogany installed. I bet that is going to look great!
I've seen it done in black and IMHO it looks terrible. I would stick with a wood grain or try to match the gelcoat.
Seafoam starboard matches very well. I used it all over my old boat.
Seafoam starboard matches very well. I used it all over my old boat.
How about oiling the wood instead of painting? The pait is going to chip and look like ____. For areas that get abuse, get a board of Ipe, one deck plank should do the whole job. It's practically idestructable but hard to cut.
I used WD-40 with good results. I loke Brians Starboard job, it looks professional and matches nicely.
Brian, did it come it thinner strips already or did you have to mill it out of board.
Brian, did it come it thinner strips already or did you have to mill it out of board.
Tashmoo said:
Would it work if I treated myself to a Corona discharge and then applied the paint? :lol:
jehines3 said:
It does come in varying thicknesses. I had purchased a full sheet of 3/4" so I'de have the right thickness for the hatch and locker doors. The parts I needed to be thinner I just ripped down on my tablesaw. Watch your fingers....
Don't ask me how I know that. :cry:Just curious....when did GW change over to plastic trim? I didn't know they had done that, as I've just pulled all the wood trim to clean it up (for the third time )
Rick
)Rick
I did this a couple of years ago and used mostly 1/4" thick Seafoam Staboard on my 91 Dolphin. I redid the coaming bolsters at the same time.
Before
After
Before
After