Has anyone done this ? I figured while I’m at it might as well move the flusher from the motor to the boat to make it easier to flush. I added a 3/8 brass barb to extend the hose. Bought 3/8 reinforced hose ran it thru the rigging tubes and over to the battery side. There’s a place under the lid to mount the hose connection. I went with 2 individual instead of one with a y on it. I spent about a hundred dollars but it will make flushing motors so much easier. I’ll take some pics tomorrow and post up.
Moving motor flusher
- Thread starter ocdansar
- Start date
Where the flushing hose is screwed to the OEM male fitting on the motor, is that just a dead-end connection?
not to blow up your shark tank dreams, but 1. saw that rigged on a 30+ Scout at an early 2000's boat show. everything external mounted to the transom and B. that's how they come from the factory now. 
gonna save some monkeying around when flushing, that's all that matters. good job, ron
gonna save some monkeying around when flushing, that's all that matters. good job, ron
Seriously shark tank. I saw it on born again boating on YouTube . I have no plans of marketing anything. I just thought I would share a project .not to blow up your shark tank dreams, but 1. saw that rigged on a 30+ Scout at an early 2000's boat show. everything external mounted to the transom and B. that's how they come from the factory now.
gonna save some monkeying around when flushing, that's all that matters. good job, ron
I like the idea, but I don't think I have room in my rigging tube to run a hose, especially where it goes through the grommet into the cowling. But external is easily doable when leaving the boat in the slip, a double male adapter on the engine hose, and a braided washing machine hose to the transom. The same connections I use on my bait tank fill.
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on a serious side, you may want to swap out the brass for bronze or a synthetic if you boat saltwater. i was going to do the external setup on the 330; it was getting to be too much bopping around back there. ron
I have used this hookup on my 2009 F250 and it works fine on the external flush line. I have one problem and maybe someone has a hint. The motor hose connection leaks on the back side at the coupling. The coupling to engine hose is tight but it still leaks at the back of the female engine hose connection (no leak at front) as if engine hose is not seated inside the female coupling. Any ideas?
I don't think so. I have replaced gasket and the leak does not occur when attached to the engine blank off. is it possible that the adapter is not pushing the engine tube to the back of the female connector? I think they are the same other than engine is plastic and the other is brass.
OK, I'm not following what you're saying. But I can't think that it can be anything other than what I mentioned.
Clark, what you are asking is possible. Maybe the adapter is pipe thread, instead of a hose barb, and it is not going in far enough to seat the fitting to the hose. Does it leak with just a hose attached?
My washer falls out if I am not careful,
My washer falls out if I am not careful,
The engine flush tube has a 'garden' like thread or hose barb. The thread is similar to regular NPT fittings but not exactly identical. Hose fittings don't the same taper as pipe fittings do.
In addition, pipe fittings don't have the smooth rounded over end edge and therefore the rubber washers may not seat correctly or actually can be cut.
One approach to plumbing the flush port is to get a male garden barb hose to garden hose repair kit. They come in male, female or hose to hose. You may find a male hose end piece that can has a brass barbed end and uses a hose clamp. That will work with any type of tubing assuming the ID is correct.
As I mentioned, I prefer plastic over metal since eventually the metal will corrode. If the connections are outside of the cowling, you will see a leak but if the tubing is routed under the cowling and leaks, it can cause a lot of motor corrosion since you may not know there is a leak. Another option is to remove the hose fitting on the flush tube and couple another hose piece or even remove the original flush hose and run new tubing all the way.
In addition, pipe fittings don't have the smooth rounded over end edge and therefore the rubber washers may not seat correctly or actually can be cut.
One approach to plumbing the flush port is to get a male garden barb hose to garden hose repair kit. They come in male, female or hose to hose. You may find a male hose end piece that can has a brass barbed end and uses a hose clamp. That will work with any type of tubing assuming the ID is correct.
As I mentioned, I prefer plastic over metal since eventually the metal will corrode. If the connections are outside of the cowling, you will see a leak but if the tubing is routed under the cowling and leaks, it can cause a lot of motor corrosion since you may not know there is a leak. Another option is to remove the hose fitting on the flush tube and couple another hose piece or even remove the original flush hose and run new tubing all the way.
Thanks Seasick, I think you understand what I am dealing with. My connections are outside of the cowling. I may have to completely replace the hose. I used a braided stainless washing machine hose with a male coupling to attach the two connections. The coupling must not extend into the engine female fitting far enough to push the tubing to the back of the fitting to keep it from leak leaking.
Clark, did you buy a hose barb adapter in the garden hose section, or just a threaded pipe nipple? The first link shows a connector with both, to attach a hose to a pipe. You can see the difference in threads. The second shows the proper hose-to-hose connector. If you have the right connector, try replacing the washer with a new one, or even double stacking the washer.