Search results for query: hatch caulk

Hey guys, I was wondering if there are any tips to doing this. Yesterday I got rid of the old caulk and thought I’d pull the hatch over my freshawater tank on my 208 Adventure and found two small wet spots. I have a heat lamp on the areas as we speak to make sure it’s dried out. I went to...

There are other places where water can get in. It could be that 'cover' but it could be a pin hole in the metal or a leak where the bracket bolts through the transom. If you ca get the boat out of the water, one test would be to remove the cover and fill the bracket with water and fill it all...

...importantly hose leaks (spray bottle soapie water). There were none. Water gets into fuel compartment via deck hatch condensation, deck hatch caulking, deck hatch screw holes and deck hatch access ports (biggest contributor). New access ports installed with 3M 4000. Deck edges and screw...

I have followed several threads on repair of leaking or damaged windows on cuddys (cuddies?). I will be attempting my own version, gradually over time. My scenario: - ‘93 Adventure 208 - leaking port side Cuddy window - prior owner(s) have already caulked the &$@“& out IC every seam, channel...

I think that the recommendation by Dennis assumes removing the hatch and resealing not just trying to caulk the rim or seal from the inside. Also confirm that the leak is in the mounting of the hatch and not the operable window it self

Thank you Dennis for the disassemble/assemble tips. I've decided to pull out the deck plate. My new pump is a Rule with detachable basket. I always buy a new bilge pump when I buy a boat... a little quirk of mine maybe, but you never know how long the existing one has been in the boat. I...

First, bilge pumps should generally last a few decades - as long as you buy a good one to start with... and there are plenty of "good" ones. Removing the screwed down hatch actually isn't that big of a deal - it just looks like a daunting task because of the size of it. But, really, all it...

some lessons I learned doing main deck hatch on GW Islander. Had moisture being wicked into original plywood deck as hatch would bleed when removed and stood on edge, weighed a ton, and was getting softer. Those caulk gaps are magnets for water. Initial lab was to go with Coosa board for light...

Polyester is just fine - that's the most common resin used in mass production boat building. Epoxy is heavier and costlier and while it's stronger, it really offers no strength benefit in this scenario. That said... poly is smelly and harder to work with. I stopped using poly years ago. Your...

I know what you mean. Don't get me wrong, you want it secure, for sure. But I think with how much flex a boat endures, making that hatch super secure with just a bunch of small screws to hold it will likely cause them to loosen up in short time - possibly even elongate the holes some. Heck, I...

X3 on the GE almond. A couple of tips. No need to fill the entire depth of the gap on panels you are in/out of each season.. It will make it harder to get out in the future. You want to ensure some rubber strips are installed between the hatch and liner to avoid any noise and that the caulk...

Cut the silicone caulk with a razor knife around the perimeter, take deck plate off to help lift it out. Do what you need to do under there, and use the GE silicon clear all around after your done screwing it down. I took someone's idea of using masking tape on both sides of the seam before...

Gonna have to be more specific as to where the deck is making the popping sounds. Best thing... take a picture and mark on the picture where it makes the sounds. It could be two pieces of fiberglass flexing against each other (hatch/deck) or it could be delaminated glass. "Fixes" will range...

Learned this years ago. Used in on the cockpit hatch and the bridge hatch.

A couple thoughts that might help... -- Use a trim removal tool to start to pry up the hatch in areas, giving better access to those areas that need cutting, still. A trim removal tool is basically a plastic pry bar. Some are stiffer/stonger than others. -- A metal pry could be used - a thin...

I would absolutely buy a 2008 or later. I have a 2005 330 Express. I'm 6'2", and I find that the upper windshield frame is directly in my line of sight. It SUCKS! I'm constantly either slouching down to look through the windshield or stretching upward to look through the Eisenglass. I do this...

those compression numbers sound solid. you are right on the edge of a boat big enough/ costly enough to justify a survey i think. your call. by void space do you mean the centre bilge coffin areas (below the main deck) covered by large hatches? grady divides this bilge into compartments...

Although some boat manufacturer's have hatches made to their specs, they don't make them themselves. There is most likely some printing/identification on the hatch, itself, and that should be the info you need to purchase a new one. If you're referring to the bedding compound that's breaking...

The forward berth on the 305 would easily accommodate a couple of average sized people. I sleep like a baby on the boat with the A/C on. The lack of windows does make the cabin feel a little like a cave, that being said we are basically in the cabin to sleep or make a sandwich plus no one ever...

GE Silicone for me.....and a caulk removal tool because I have to remove at least one hatch every spring.