Search results for query: hatch caulk

Thanks for the pics. I have the same guts below the deck as you, but was confused about where the oil tanks were until you told me that you didn't need them anymore. You guys were right, the thru-hull seacock is directly below the pie hole, and the pump is to the port side mounted on a...

Fishone: After a hard rain water in the bildge is almost automatic (on any boat). My T 225 bildge was dry as a bone but after a hard rain last week I had water in the bildge even though I have styrofoam cups in the cup holders to keep water from draining into the bildge. (Forward and aft cup...

Bob, did you bleed the system with ATF or Seastar fluid? Lot of guys use ATF, which will work, but is a lot more viscous than Seastar fluid and will cause the stiffness you're experiencing. I've found that a complete flush with fresh fluid gave a better feel of the wheel. I use aviation...

Gad, another thing to check. Just bought my 1997 Sailfish and am checking everything Waiting for my mechanic to fix all the things he found and then get it bottom painted, some new electronics and hopefully get it in the water so it can resume it's intended purpose in life. My main concern...

Re-bed the hinges AND the fuel tank hatch screws. When I had the marine surveyor inspect my 98 272 there were higher moister readings around the screw holes. The surveyor did mention that Grady White has never bedded those fasteners which has led to premature cored deck de-lamination. I did...

That's nice, wonder how much water is getting into the hatch glass. I was thinking the same thing, but would like to think Grady beaded those hinges with some good caulk. Somebody mentioned the hardtop legs, I haven't checked that yet either. It's a bit of water, don't see how that much water...

Thanks you for the post.

thanks guys, I really have not been back to the boat to do a closer inspection. And from what I have read it is time anyhow for a new tank, but I am remaining optimistic to possibly salvage the tank for another year if replacing it could be put off. When I got the boat a month ago I wondered...

The floor of the motor well is solid fiberglass, not cored. I tried spraying water between the hatch frame and the fiberglass but no water appeared in the bilge. When water does start appearing, ("o" ring goes bad) I might consider caulk but at least now I can properly repair/replace the float...

Caulk that hatch...especially if you installed it in a wood-cored panel.

Silicon caulk can be spread with your finger and isopropyl alcohol. Water is not the best liquid for the task. Of course you could wet a rag with the alcohol but it evaporates quickly.

Had a soft spot in the forward hatch. Pulled both hatches and sealed with outdoor window stuff. That's what I used in the past and it has held up great. Have tried many tools in the past to smooth out the caulk. Best thing I've used is a wet rag. Water seems to work the best for cleanup...

Yes, filling the seams will be necessary upon replacing the fuel compartment hatch cover. Carefully removing the old caulk from the mating surfaces is labor intensive, but will ensure a waterproof seal. I use ordinary silicone to facilitate hatch removal in the future. There may be some rubber...

Per another thread I posted today, we popped our sagging floor hatch over the weekend to get a replacement fabricated. It had been sealed in place really, really well, with an unidentifiable clear caulking. For all I know, it could have been factory. Anyway, when we get the replacement hatch...

This is a common problem. Boat sits nose heavy in the water and all the water will collect in the front bilge. Given you don't have anything in the water system leaking, this is what I found in mine. Had my boat for a year now (2007 marlin) and it was bad at first. Here is what if found. Cup...

Sounds better than a utility knife...

If you bury a loop of 300# or 400# mono down in the crevice before you caulk it, then you will have something to use to "break the seal" the next time you need to lift that hatch.

Happy New Year all! No idea on the brand for the hinges, I had a glass shop do this work, I could probably find out thru a call to Bob at New England Fiberglass in Norwalk. Also, the wood across the top was indeed glassed over, just in case. I was very concerned about playing with the...

Please post details on measurements and anything else that you find. I recently removed the forward floor hatch on my '93 Seafarer with the intent to add an aux tank. My plan is to add the aux tank then hook it to my new motor, allowing me to use the boat and give me more time to draw down the...

I used the Bathroom caulk and it yellowed in the sun in the first year. Last winter I used the window and door on the other hatch and it seems to be holding up better.