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This is not a knock against anyone here, but you don't want to trust some unknown guy's measurements. You want to take your own measurements and make your own templates. Start with cardboard, then transfer to foam board insulation for your final templates. Leave a little bit of wiggle room...

Good point. If there's no obvious signs of how water could be getting in such as corroded aluminum where the SS screws are, then this is the most logical reason.

Yup - all wheels have to have essentially the same "functional" nut holding it on since the steering shafts are standardized.

If it's a pop-off style, tapping it with a rubber mallet (or similar) from the side should start to dislodge it. Obviously, use light to medium pressure - but if it's meant to pop off, you should be able to see/feel that "it will work". Although, if it's a pop-off style, it also should have...

You didn't mention what engine you have - that would be more relevant to this issue than the boat. Some engines, as noted, won't do anything if the kill switch is activated (or failed). Look for a missed wire when you re-connected the batteries, as well. How were the batteries "checked"?

Try contacting KUS and ask them if there's a retailer in Canada. Or check with your local marina or marine store - that, I think, should alleviate the shipping issue.

It's a little hard to follow some of your wording, but I think I have the jist of it. Do you use bottom paint with copper in it? That could explain the greenish color we see. FYI, if you do, it really should be painted right up next to the motor brackets. Regardless, though, the main...

If you're vice grips (or slip joint pliers) are large enough... put a thin pad in between the jaws of the pliers and the flats of the nut. Something like a paint stirring stick may work - maybe doubled up or reinforced with some duct tape so it doesn't split.

It looks like it just unscrews? Can't do it with your hand? Try a strap wrench or a rag and a large crescent wrench (it has smooth jaws).

That's probably a good idea. I mean, if you stuck something else in there, like hot dogs, it probably wouldn't work so well :) :) :)

Oh well. Worth a shot. 30 years is a long time to find a perfectly matching replacement. I replaced my 40 year old ones, though, and it wasn't too bad. I forget exactly what I had to do, but it wasn't hard by any means to make them fit. It's easy to make the hole a bit bigger or rotate the...

Any marking, of any kind, on the back side? Maybe a logo?

Measure the ID - ie, the "cutout hole". What brand is it? Try TH Marine, Beckson, Sea Dog, etc.

That'll be fine.

That's strange. Probably just a coincidence. Stabilizer won't cause issues - chemically speaking, it can't. If it's the type of stabilizer that, in addition to stabilizing, is also meant to combat issues from ethanol, then it wouldn't "cause" phase separation - it would help to prevent it...

If you're having problems finding the gasket (taking into account the note above about the surface)... have you called KUS directly?

Oh, OK. I have never seen that style of plug used anywhere other than the transom. There would be no reason to use that style internally (NOT underwater).

Sounds like you just have some extras. Did you physically look at the boat? It's pretty easy to tell where the holes are in a boat ;)

Pump out the tank again the same way you did it the first time. But it sounds like you pumped it out right away and didn't let the boat set for a while to let the water separate out fully. Give it a day or two to be sure. Pressurize the tank/system with a couple PSI and look/listen/feel...

Just like you wouldn't find parts for your Ford on the Ford website, you'd have to contact your local dealer. They MIGHT actually be less expensive than having one made - maybe :) But with a local upholsterer, you'd need to take the boat to them - "possibly" they'd come to your boat and...