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Hmmm. That's strange. But, whatever - I guess it is what it is. FYI, it seems more likely that if you just break the heads off that you can push the remaining stub down into the hole. Togglers are easy. Not pushing you to do it - just that it's not hard. However, the old stubs are a moot...

Sure, that's why they're removable! :) They're small enough that any home washer will be fine. I just wouldn't dry them with high heat. Maybe even stop the dryer before they're totally finished and hang them to let them air dry the rest of the way.

I'd start by comparing the pictures and overall dimensions of some various model year brochures. If it "looks promising", reach out to Grady and see they can tell you for sure.

Buffing will make the currently painted parts shinier... but it will also enlarge the spots where the paint is worn through to the fiberglass. Repainting is your option. As Skunk mentioned, switch to clear bowl Racors. Or, at least, put some decent spin-on filters on there. Mercury, Yamaha...

As noted, there's a lot of variables at play here - both in boat performance and what can cause ventilation. Strictly looking at the bars on the gauge is probably about the least informative "criteria" to judge things on. Is the hull super clean? Even a layer of slime can affect this.

Adding onto what Bill said, the reason for those questions is that any number of brands of engines could be on the boat and then each brand of engine can have multiple styles/brands of gauges.

If you get the industrial vinegar (it's about 30% compared to 4% for regular vinegar), you can saturate a rag with it and lay it on the window. Ideally, out of the sun. It'll be hit or miss as to whether or not it work depending on how long the window has been like this. Same with compounding...

I've known a number of people that used Uship with good results. They all "should" have insurance, but double check. It's a little easier for you to find people since you have a trailer and really only need a "hot shot" hauler with a pick-up truck (Google that, too). You're also only going a...

Check for power at both sides of the switch and then at the accessory. Verify the grounds are good.

Is it a normal size stereo? Usually referred to as "single din" if you want to look it up. It's the most common size and readily available. It should fit right into the existing slot. Wiring may or may not match up with "connectors"... but it's very easy to splice and wire color coding is...

You got snookered! :) The original poster asked this over a year ago and hasn't responded since.

Correct - that style has been around for eons (and is still used). It may or may not physically have a ground tab on it.

Granted the wiring may be rotten away, but look around your aux tank area - if THAT was the tank that carried the main grounding wire, then it may still be hanging around in there.

Just a side note (although most comments still apply)... I'm pretty sure Jim has the older style sender that has a single pink wire going to the sender and then the sender is grounded either via the screws and a tab somewhere on the tank that has a black (or green) wire attached to it... or...

Oh... what everyone is saying about a solid ground is correct - but that could ALSO be to a grounding bus bar where the bus bar is connected to a battery. That is actually a very common way that many good manufacturers do it -- and, in many ways, nicer as it keeps the battery posts cleaner with...

On a related note... are there any access plates or anything else that can be removed to visually check?

It's actually "pink", but I'm only mentioning that so you have reference of the proper colors. If your gauge works, then the tank or sending unit is already grounded.

OK, we're on different pages here. Your first post made it sound like this was a project you were definitely going to do. When I do simple things like this, I'm ready to go and will figure it out on the fly. This is one of those things that's really easy to "just do". It doesn't really need...

Not really. You're taking the seat off regardless so it doesn't matter. Besides, it won't fall right off - it would loosen and then just spin and spin. Maybe eventually the nut would vibrate off, though. But it's still kind of a moot point since you're taking it off, you know? Go for it! :)

Well... what happens when you try removing the screws? It seems this is probably a pretty easy one to answer for yourself :) I mean, if they unscrew you have your answer... if they just spin, you have your answer.