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Other than the fact that you have to get down on your knees to "see" what you are doing with the current battery switch (or make a small sign and stick it on the side of gunwale so you don't have to actually look at the switch)... the placement of the batteries and the switch are totally fine...

I couldn't speak to that or give any definitive info on that. I've never bought it that way nor do I know for a fact, one way or the other, if it's true or not.

I only use Yamaha stuff for things like this, as well. I'd be very surprised if it WAS original... but hey, it COULD be! :)

My mother's boat had a similar thing going on a few years ago. I removed the engine and verified the wood was still in good shape by drilling multiple holes and inspecting. There was no flex in the transom, either. I contemplated skinning the outside of the transom to rebuild, but decided on...

No, it's been my personal experience (and have read WAY more about these pumps than I should!) that the diaphragms and seals just don't last all that long. They're basically considered a regular maintenance item. Rebuild kits are available - but they're not THAT much less than a brand new pump...

Side note... there's no way those are original or anywhere NEAR original! Give or take, figure replacing every 5 years. If you get a decent amount longer than that... consider it a bonus :)

Take the old one apart and you'll find rubber diaphragms inside. Look on the side of the pump case that attaches to the engine - see the holes? As the pistons travel they create alternating suction/pressure which moves the diaphragm in/out and along with the check valves inside the pump it...

Find out if the mounting point for the biminis are the same - meaning, check the width at the mounting point... check the height from the floor as well (for the mounting point). Next verify the bimini length & height "opened" is the same - and compare the heights of the two windshields (and/or...

It depends on what you actually have there. As noted, it's hard to help without seeing what you have - or at least post a picture of your existing switch that you find online. Perko and Blue Seas are other manufacturers you can look at, though.

If I understand what you're saying, you're wondering if NOT using a barb to barb to fitting somewhere at/inside the cowling, and instead just using a straight hose all the way is fine? Makes no difference - six of one, half dozen of the other.

25" is normal - is there an underlying reason that you would want to use a 20" shaft? You may be able get away with making the performance normal using the 20" shaft since you can mount the platform on the stern lower... but your engine will end up being more likely to take waves onto it

Very nice install! I like the split bow rail - that's ingenious using the PVC pipe :) Just out of curiosity, how much run time could a battery like that provide and how would that compare to something like (3) group 27 lead acids? I realize there are other benefits of lithium that may...

Yer welcome! The next part to this is the crimp connectors. Ancor makes excellent stuff. As noted above, adhesive lined shrink connectors are the top of the pile. Many (good) manufacturers don't even use shrink tube, though - so don't worry about going "crazy" with this. BUT... while you're...

I understand the want to be OEM, but the reality is that there are often BETTER products than what Grady (and, truthfully, most manufacturers) use. If you're saying that what you pictured is similar to what you are calling OEM... I've never seen that stuff used from a factory. Will that...

As noted above, "rigging hose" is what you want to look for. Do you need to match it up to the outlet on the boat and the inlet on the motor? You'll need the same size as what you have. I "think" rigging hose is all pretty much standard, though - but double check. TH Marine has a nice...

As you're looking around, don't trust the word "marine" in some ads. Anybody can slap that term on. What you're really after is "tinned" wire - that's the important part.

And Taylor is a Grady dealer! Boy, it sure looks like Taylor took a can of $22 SEM Vinyl Spray Paint/Dye, ripped the label off and stuck their own on there and jacked the price. EDIT: Massey, not meaning to distract from your project here... I hope it turns out well for you!

ROUGHLY speaking, you raise the motor (use the anti-ventilation plate as your measurement) 1" for every 1' that it is setback from the transom. With that in mind, you can figure out where to mount the bracket on the boat - keeping in mind you still want some flexibility to move the motor...

FYI, the reason for the ASV is not to prevent someone from stealing your gas. Instead, if a gas hose should burst, there is a possibility that all of the gas in your tank would be siphoned out into your bilge.

Aye aye, Captain! :)