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You didn't attach your hose to the pickup tube... you attached it to a barb fitting called an antisiphon valve... it is scsrewed into the 90* tank fitting that the pickup tube is attached to. Can you guess what it's purpose is? :)

Ah, OK. Yes, you could get them from your dealer, but you could also go TH Marine online - they're a good company to deal with. See the link Glacier provided.

What's a thru hull pull?

Mike, what they're getting at regarding the transom is it beefed up enough for OB use? Adding an OB (especially on a bracket) puts more stress on the transom than an I/O due to leverage (see my signature).

You could look at Merc, as well - compared to the weight you listed, I think they're about 50lbs lighter. The 150HP would probably be even less. But as far as HP goes, a lot of this comes down to how you use your boat. Meaning, base your decision on YOUR use, not someone else's. That said...

Annie, something to keep in mind with placement of the spotlight is glare. You either have to set it back far enough from the front edge of the hardtop so it doesn't shine down AT ALL on the foredeck, or mount it far enough forward that it doesn't shine on the deck or the anchor. If mounting...

"Tilt and Trim" fluid sounds like it's for tilting/trimming of an outdrive or OB... not for steering. Personally, I wouldn't use it. Maybe it would be fine... I don't know. I'd flush it out completely with the proper fluid - whether Sea Star or the equivalent with the proper spec.

Poly tanks are actually quite durable and last a long, long time. Many, many smaller boats in the US have them - and have had them for decades (I can't speak for boats outside of the US). My guess as to why larger tanks aren't poly is probably the same as mentioned above - something about...

Hmmm. Interesting. Sealant is definitely holding the plate on... but I've never seen that style before -- what is that "button" looking thing on the top? That doesn't depress to release the SS cover plate, does it? But... that looks like an LED fixture. There typically is not a bulb - you...

It would help to see the actual thing you have, but when you say "tried to unscrew the unit"... do you mean "removed the attachment screws"? The former way sounds like you grabbed a hold of the unit and tried to unscrew "it". Assuming it's the latter, it's just stuck down with sealant...

If you end up still being on the fence about strength, glass-in (or 5200) a piece of 3/4" plywood before your backer plate. You can make the 3/4" as long as you want.

I understand why you're asking - but stength-wise, you'll be fine - you're only adding a 2" hole and there is still PLENTY of meat left.

Best course of action is to go play with it a bit to see if you want tabs. You might find that you get on plane faster now that the engine is further back. Are tabs a good idea? Yes, they are a great tool and can help the boat perform better and handle choppier water. But YOU need to decide...

I suppose I didn't spell it out step for step (I guess I thought it was obvious in my first response), but in my response that you quoted, I specifically said that the anchor never goes under the rail. Over the rail.

What you're reading about is in regards to aluminum tanks. Since you (likely) have a plastic tank... while the advice of "fuel smells" obviously still applies... the likelihood of a plastic tank leaking is extremely low. If you do suspect a leak, the smell is much more likely to be coming from...

He mentioned he does not have a pulpit nor a stand-a-lone roller.

I'm not sure what you're asking? Re-read what I wrote - the anchor never goes under the rail.

When I cut out the entire cockpit floor and rebuilt (including hatch repairs... and even made one from scratch) I painted the floor with a nice, contrasting color with non-skid paint. That was much easier than trying to repair/match the existing gelcoat. If you did this, you could repair the...

You could certainly install one, but... you can use the bow rail as a "roller". This allows you to stand up and step back, making it much easier to retrieve. Obviously, you stop when you get to the chain and then reach over! And, of course, tie-off under the rail, not over it. I did this on...

It's hard to judge the amount of water exiting a thru-hull - but that could be roughly correct in terms of how much "extra" you can get via teh dash switch vs the float switch. Also, a "time period" doesn't really factor in, either, as it dependent on the amount of rain (and use of a windlass)...