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And, for L-O-T-S of info on caulking hatches, you can do a search (use the advanced tab) on this site. This topic has been discussed so many times, you'll get plenty of info to satisfy your craving :) Example: https://www.greatgrady.com/search/1754467/?q=hatch+caulk&o=date

Are the upper and lower electronics boxes separated from each other by fiberglass? I would have thought that once behind the panels, it was a big open box. They're not screws if they just spin - they must be bolts as I eluded to above. Or, at least, it would be unlikely that they were all...

What have you already tried for removing the spots?

I agree that the acceleration test is nowhere near reliable enough. There's no way to feel minute movements while a boat is accelerating. But... back to your crack :) That doesn't appear to be a crack. It looks like old sealant has separated. Dig it out, reseal, done. But first reach in...

You're welcome! But... don't assume that all fixes will be this easy! :)

Thinking of if this was mine... An option would be to lengthen each leg to make it higher so you don't have to duck under the front - but then the whole thing would be too high and not an effective sunshade. Ducking isn't that big of a deal, but I I would take it to a local welder and have...

Hard to say. Welcome to what I like to call the "POS"... Previous Owner Syndrome :) That spider is a very inexpensive one meant for freshwater. The paint will relatively quickly flake off and the cheap metal underneath will corrode. The reason he used that could have been just that... cheap...

Oh... wait... I THINK YOU ARE SAYING: -- The previous owner had a length of PVC pipe that fit INSIDE both the post and the spider? -- Was probably a 2" PVC pipe? If that's the case... my guess is that at some point he replaced the original/old spider with that newer one (and he chose a cheap...

Remind me not to ask you to build anything that requires at least semi-accurate measurements! :) Now, I'm admittedly not quite following what your dilemma is, but... -- Regarding the pictures in your post #8... it seems as though you are comparing the OD of the post to the OD of the spider...

This. For example, in your third pic, you should be pulling tight against the hook. I know you said you physically tried some some spiders, but maybe something was amiss there as well? On the other hand... why not just use your existing spider/slider with the new seats?

$50 covers a WHOLE lot of goofiness! :) Honestly, I think it looks just fine. Aluminum radar arches often span gunwale to gunwale. Besides, it give you more shade than a regular top. If it was me... mount it up and go boating! Cutting it in half will be harder than you think. You'll also...

Pictures? It looks like you have your own picture there - which is better than anyone else's, anyways :) 'Bout the only downside I can think of is it's more awkward to walk to the bow with your fishing rod if you've got a fish on. If that's not a concern for you, then I can't really think of...

Atlantic Towers sells some very nice aftermarket tops - different styles/weights/price points, too.

Picture? But if there's no visible fasteners then I would look for either an access panel behind the dash (well, "in front of", actually) or gain access via the lower electronics cubby - then reach up and feel for nuts. Stick your phone in there and take some pics.

You've got to run power wires so adding control wires to pull isn't any more difficult - just an FYI. But, I agree with the others that while a spotlight looks cool sitting up there, it's not the best solution. Plus, also like said, they sit unused so much that when you go to use it may not...

9 times out of 10 you can figure things out just by running it, especially if you have experience with boats/engines. If you feel a little on the fence in this area, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get a mechanical survey done and also check the transom/bang cap (the trim that sits under the...

You certainly won't hurt my feelings if you put me right back on that list.

There's more information than just the first post. Sometimes you have to read everything - that's what I was trying to direct you towards. "And it does say on the link that I provided that it "Fits IBVF for Seacock Application"." That is correct. And that is why you are wrong. Educate...

No, that last link is for a ball valve, not a seacock. A ball valve will not work. According to his pictures, he needs the seacock, not the remote arm and bracket (read post #3 to understand the differences between the various components)

The remote arm in the long, SS thing. The yellow thing is the handle. But, yes, it looks like replacing the seacock is in order and probably the wisest choice. Maybe you can replace just the valve/stem? I honestly don't know as I've never tried.