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Just a heads up... stripping who-knows-how-many layers of bottom paint down to clean gel (you have to do that for the barrier coat) is VERY laborious. You WILL be hurtin'! Hiring a company to soda blast is the way to go... but that's another cost. Barrier and bottom paint will be more than...

Grey, is your hull currently bottom painted? How's the condition? Truth is, if you're on a lift and only do day trips, it doesn't really matter if it is painted/not painted/or somewhere in between. At that point it's only an aesthetic thing.

There's different styles of "arms"... which one do you have? But, no, it's not Grady specific. A local marine store should be able to help you if bring some pics/measurements. Try AM Equipment - they may have been the ones that made it... although you can use a different brand, too. The only...

OK, that's starting to get clearer! :) The computer (ECM) would be on the engine... what year/make/model engine do you have? Assuming for a bit that you have at least have a Yamaha - it's on the aft side side of the engine. Continuing with the assumption... although this part is pretty...

Can you please clarify some things? What is a "thermal probs"? What "cause" where they not able to determine? I'm not following why you are asking what a computer is. You used one to write your question! If the engine is fuel injected, it uses a computer to control that, amongst other...

Yes, a maintainer is fine. But as noted, DO NOT leave the garboard drain plug in. Always take it out when you pull the boat out. Make sure you crank the tongue jack so it's bow high. Sitting on a trailer, truth is, you don't even need 50W. 10W would be fine. When you overnight, a solar...

That'll be fine. It really doesn't matter too much. As long as it's dry.

Isn't there a tile lock lever you can swing down? All of the Merc's I can remember seeing do.

Like Half mentioned - don't use 5200 anywhere you are mating the plate to the hull. You're basically super glueing it if you use that stuff. Wrong application for 5200. You won't be making a "patch" in option #2. You'll be repairing the hole. The screws, most likely, are 1" long and would...

Yup - that's my option #3... just worded better :) One change to what you wrote... drill the new holes "now" - no need to remove, drill, then reinstall. Drill the new holes while it's place as it both makes the holes in the plate and marks the transom for a new hole at the same time. Same...

Actually, to Seasick's point about maybe having to remove the whole assembly... in this case, I think you just grab a hold of that motor and yank it off by hand! :) Given the nice condition of everything else... I'm betting someone already replaced the motor and went with the cheapest of cheap...

-- Drill the screw and use a screw extractor -- Drill over/around the screw with a hole saw that is just barely bigger than the screw, then pop the "plug" out and fill/repair the hole -- Grind the screw so it's slightly below the surface, repair the surface to be flat, install new screws in a...

Figure roughly 36" of motor past where it mounts. Add that to the boat's overall length (see Grady's site) and you should get a pretty good idea. Google for something like Yamaha 300HP dimensions if you want to get something more accurate - that search term should help. Do you need to account...

Yup - those black rubber pieces are just waterproof covers. If a breaker "trips" it will "pop out" and then you resetit by pushing it back in. Right now, the rubber pieces feel sloppy becasue the breaker is not tripped. Quite common. An assumption on the trim/tilt is that it originally...

The two 1/2" plys would be stronger. I don't know if there's a significant weight savings one way or the other, though. But speaking of strength... I wouldn't pick one of those methods over the other for strength. Strength of the core material actually isn't very important. It's the...

An assumption would be that you checked the gypsy - closely visually inspect it as well as feel it. But just to double check... have you? Unless I missed it, did you verify if the line was slipping in the gypsy? Meaning, the gypsy was turning but the line wasn't following it?

Their pumps are "metered" as you know - which one pump of resin and pump of hardener. Other companies (like the one I mentioned) have pumps, too - but sometimes they're not metered... meaning you control it based on the number of pumps. For example, 3:1 - 3 pumps of resin to 1 pump of...

Poly is quite a bit less expensive and is plenty strong enough for the job. But I prefer epoxy (and it's what I used, as well), too. Aside from way less stink, it's more forgiving to mix and work with. You're going to go through a lot of it - while I like the West System and it's readily...

There's different thicknesses of SeaDek so that might be part of the issue. Also... glue down or snap-in? What's the breakdown of parts vs labor? But, yes, $5K sounds high.

There really isn't any adjustment that can made - other than tightening or loosening the clutch - but that isn't the issue here. What John said is dead on - the only thing I'd add is that another possibility is that it's not actually the windlass that's chewing it up, rather something on the...