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With those limits, I hope that you have a good umbrella policy. $2500 in medical won't get anyone out of the ER, much less admitted to a hospital. And $100K in bodily injury might not even cover legal expenses, if you really hurt someone, and get sued.

Lite Tackle, why check compression with the throttle closed? I always heard fully open, for max air flow. My old 200(Not OX66) usede to foul plugs, and run rough at idle. Switching from Yamalube to the Pennzoil semi-synthetic seem to have cured that.

There are already dozens of cruising guides and websites for the Great Loop. Did you find any of them particularly helpful?

So many problems can be traced to a nut loose behind the steering wheel.

Question for those of you who have replaced fuel tanks. After removing the tanks, how much of the underside of the deck were you able to observe, and were any of these complicated drains and hoses visible, or accessible from underneath?

All you have to do is call the GW factory, and ask for the tech desk. They will tell you what your deck material is. Occasionally, like if you call at lunch, you will get a call back, but 9 out of 10 times, you will get an answer to you question on the phone.

Wouldn't have to be wood, other coring materials will compress.

"I started replacing all my through hull drains yesterday, the old ones mostly crumbled once I tried to remove the hoses from them...." My experience, as well, and should be taken seriously by anyone with the old white thru hull fittings. No bilge pump is going to keep up with the flow thru a...

Are these bolts going thru solid glass, or is this a cored deck, which might be compressing over time under the pressure of the fastener?

Seacocks are ball valves, but a ball valve screwed to the top of a thru hull scoop is not a good seacock, but that is how my Grady, and most are done. Lot of articles about why it is a bad practice, here is one...

If you have the white drains that I had on my '93, they are a ticking time bomb, especially if showing cracks. Several just fell apart as soon as I tried to turn them.

They will be bronze, not brass. Brass is copper and zinc, and zinc is eaten away in salt water. Bronze is copper and nickel.

I made this tool with a socket that fits snugly in the outside of the thru hull, and a grinder. Since it is so hard to work in the small openings, if you can just get someone to hold a wrench on the nut, you can do all the turning from the outside, using the 2 small tabs in the thru hull...

I was asking if there was a raised edge on the deck itself, that would fit in the 'gutter' between the wood and the glass edge, or whether the hatch rested on its own glass rim. I am starting to show some cracks around the edge. I think your pictures answer that question. Thank you.

It looked great in a 6 year old thread. How does it look now?

Why can't you pressure test a tank in place, if you have all that access?

If a ton is still 2000lbs, 6500lbs is 3.25 tons, and 5500lbs is 2.75 tons.

Hookup, is there a raised gutter on the deck, between the original edge of the hatch and the wood, or is the seating area flat? Have to do mine this winter, but have not looked under it, yet.

No connection, just thought it was interesting. https://eastnc.craigslist.org/boa/d/norfolk-27ft-grady-white/7010801075.html

I don't think that I would be happy with that substitution. Somebody like Finnaddict Marine could give you an exact duplicate, with that photo, the outside dimensions of the frame, and the dimensions of the door. The screws are so close to the edge of the frame that it makes me think the cut-out...