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I would suggest that during the off season that you get that girl a proper cleaning (maybe even down to the glass) and some antifoulant paint on it before next season. I'm in brackish water and I can get away with new bottom every other year. Best of luck in the future.

Congratulations on the success with your inboard coolers. Mine doesn't do quite that well. Might want to ease up on the kool-aid though. Just kidding;)

Your forward bilge shouldn't let the water build up enough to cover the false floor/shelf. I have that same shelf which is where the holding tank for the head resides.

Better to find out now rather than later. Your search continues...good luck.

Here are some tale tell things to look for. If you can gain access to the transom via access holes or panels, let your cell phone be your eyes. Notice the rusty water leaking at the mounting bolts and cracked mat around the as well.

Do you have a remote spotlight?

You are correct...the thru hull is under the forward trailer bunk.

If you boat is pre 2004 and has a live well in the transom (port side), it is fairly easy to remove and access the scuppers and drains from there. I'm not the biggest fella in the world and it worked for me . Access hole on the starboard side is about the best you can do.

Check out these guys. They do a lot of pieces for the GW factory. They have duplicated a couple of pieces for my '94 Sailfish. They may be able to make a set for you. Fin-Addict Marine Inc. 402 W Martin St, Benson, NC 27504 (919) 989-6813

The problem occurs when I top off the tanks. As a full time charter boat, this is almost a daily occurrence. It is also more prevalent when I top off the 52 gal. reserve tank as apposed to the 150 gal. main tank. I have not seen any obvious leeks from the tanks or sender flanges. The smell...

Unfortunately, I cannot see the full routing. They leave the tank and go through the stringer adjacent to the tank, then I can locate the filler end by removing a bulkhead in the rear berth under the bridge.

Starting to get some fuel smell in the bilges and noticed some sheen floating in their as well. Pretty sure it is the fuel filler or vent lines rather than the tanks due to where I'm seeing the sheen first show up. Looking for tips or suggestions on how to snake new lines from filler caps on...

Here are some pics from a 94 272. Had it done last summer after repowering brought out the damage. Transom was gutted and replace with Coosa board. Total damage was $10K which included engine removal and rehanging.

Just a FYI...you might want to check with Grady White on whether or not your hull is designed to hold the weight of F250's. I have a 94 272 and when I checked with Grady they advised me that my hull was not designed for that much weight on the transom. My only option was the light weight...

Those areas are not cored on my 94 Sailfish...just fiberglass.

Simple answer is "yes" all gelcoat no matter what color fades over time. Proper care will make the true color last longer though.

Turned out really nice. She looks fantastic.

Congratulations and welcome aboard.

Really like what you've done so far. The enclosed front windows are spot on. They are gonna look great.

Just a FYI. I was able to source the deck drains easier and quicker from my nearest Grady dealer. Marine Town gave me a Nov. delivery date and I was able to get them from my dealer in about four days from date of order.