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Update in regards to sealing bracket. Over winter, I did air pressure test....low pressure with the tire valve in PVC threaded tester I made that replaces one of the drain plugs. Found that the silicone I used last year did not keep it's seal with the starboard access plates. So, I cleaned them...

Update to those with self launch issues on their setup.....I can now vouch that the additional ounces of lead added as shown in pic above works like a charm. I was able to test this weekend and it lauched with no effort and anchored perfectly. I even was at anchor long enough for the tide to...

Update to those with self launch issues on their setup.....I can now vouch that the additional ounces of lead added as shown in pic above works like a charm. I was able to test this weekend and it lauched with no effort and anchored perfectly. I even was at anchor long enough for the tide to...

Good observations......I replaced all hoses. Actually, all my original were in very good shape, but chose to replace them due to age and concern for ethanol. Not so sure former owners used ethanol fuel, so might be why I was in good shape and when I used it I always used the Startron to negate...

Harry, I some pics of mine which I would assume is same or near same as yours. In the fuel tank cavity, both large and small tanks share same cavity. There is no bulkhead between them. Just a separator board. Here is what it looks like with both tanks out.The back side of the bulkhead shown is...

The chocks just screw in. They don't under go extreme stress, so screws of appropriate size are sufficient. Make sure you chamfer all drilled holes so you don't get spider cracks later.

Removal of the rear tank is not hard to do which can allow you more access and visibility to drill and work it and see the extent of the rot. In mine, I could see through the green tinted resin layers and the wood looked clean. If you drill out and dry out, I would instead use Rot Doctor CPES...

It does not take a lot. First time, grease it well, then after, wipe off the grease from the ball. This method will distribute the grease up into the coupler well and into areas it might need it. You can always put some up in the coupler also, but I just greased the ball and after first tow...

Yeah, it can be if you don't have a scrap yard around. I started out buying my aluminum plate material from Speedy Metals online. Not too bad. Did not want to use Wood, even having to mess with the resin. Aluminum seemed easier. One of the guys I work with mentioned a local scrap yard about 15...

Dennis, you and I are in full agreement. When I looked up under the deck and could see through the green color glass, I saw the balsa. I was guessing it to be about 1/2" thick, so figured it needed full spread support. That is why I used a full baseball diamond shaped piece of 3/8 or 1/4" I...

Agree somewhat. I am sure mine is overkill, especially since you don't really pull anchor or leave it tied up with stress on the pulpit, but would strongly recommend anytime you install any hardware on deck, such as cleats or other items, to use very large and thick washers or a plate of some...

Scroll down and you will see some of the things I had to do on my install. Definately an aluminum plate will help strengthen up the based of foredeck. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19666&hilit=Windlass

I did a lot of research on this also a while back and due to most everyone claiming the glare issue from mounting on hardtop, I decided not to do that. I also wanted to find one that would mount upside down which would relieve any issue with flush mounted radar. Putting off to the side will be...

To keep wear down and squeaking/rusting, I also use white lithium grease, but sparingly. I cover the ball with the plastic cover and it keeps from gettting on clothes or whatever.

Sure, np. Was able to take some pics this weekend to show you for any ideas how mine worked out.

Agree with Brian. Put my breaker next to battery. I added 2 house batteries tied in parallel and added aux. chargers from motors to keep them up. I start the motors when using the windlass and so far, no issue with power to HDS units with this method.

Here is a good pic link of how it all connects. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Goldd ... wiring.gif

Your wires coming from the windlass will connect to the solenoid as well as the wires coming from the battery all connect together at this location. So crimping on ring connectors of correct gauge will be used to secure to the solenoid. Check your windlass wiring schematic and installation...

Hmm, I made mine about an inch longer that original if I recall, but with no reference, I think maybe measure length of existing cables and how they would bend when tilting up and down, then go from there. They need a bend so they can flex naturally in most installations.

First question is did you check first to see if you already have the wires running to the bow from the transom for a windlass? Mine already had them installed by the factory. Look up under the Port Gunnel and around near where the batteries are. They had a yellow plastic tag zip tied to them...