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OP's coffin box could very well be sealed. I saved this from a similar conversation about the tubes being sealed.
Well fellas here is where we are at as of tonight. I have the floor removed It was held down to the stringers by folded fiberglass mat, pried it off pretty easy. I noticed the top of all the stringers were not glasses or sealed it just had the mat on top over it….. Carolyn coming through with the great Grady customer service I was able to get a pretty informative layout to help with the rebuild.
Now is when I need some advice/need to research how I’m going to proceed.
1- how am I gonna secure the aft and mid section so she does bend in or out once I start removing stringers (planning on putting some pipe in the rod holders and a 2x4 across through bolted to the 2x4)
2- I’ve read that poly resin is what I should use?
3- I’m taking existing stringers out to have a good template, also what’s the best way to install stringers to the hull I’ve seen people put foam, just a bunch of “peanut butter”, what do you guys recommend.
4- the exiting floor looks amazing and feels good too should I waste my time and redo the floor with new wood… I feel like if I seal her back up good she should be good? Or is it out already so might as well?
Now is when I need some advice/need to research how I’m going to proceed.
1- how am I gonna secure the aft and mid section so she does bend in or out once I start removing stringers (planning on putting some pipe in the rod holders and a 2x4 across through bolted to the 2x4)
2- I’ve read that poly resin is what I should use?
3- I’m taking existing stringers out to have a good template, also what’s the best way to install stringers to the hull I’ve seen people put foam, just a bunch of “peanut butter”, what do you guys recommend.
4- the exiting floor looks amazing and feels good too should I waste my time and redo the floor with new wood… I feel like if I seal her back up good she should be good? Or is it out already so might as well?
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Just made an outboard bracket to hold up the good old yammie while she’s off the vessel. I’ll post some pics later. Also currently trying to support the hull for stringer removal, got an idea waiting for some time to apply my idea physically and see how it does.
Caster wheels get in tomorrow, going to finish the primer coat, and quick paint before putting the Yamaha outboard on the bracket. Weld were ok considering my time off a welder but I am overall happy so far we’ll see how she does once the outboard weight is on it.
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Got the vessel level on both axis, going to start supporting the bottom hull between the rollers on the trailer. Will have some updated pics I couldn’t find good enough answers or videos but I got a decent idea in the works.
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Finally got the casters on the outboard stand pretty happy with the outcome, going to paint the outboard stand and the engine hoist. To remove the outboard….. I might give gotten ahead of myself and leveled the vessel while having the outboard on and no space to move it. Will be taking the trailer/vessel off the stands and removing the outboard to re-level. 
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greauxpete
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We just finished replacing our starboard stringers on our 268 islander. After sealing all sides of the new plywood stringer with epoxy, we initially glued the new plywood in with peanut butter. Then, we tabbed the new stringer to the floor with 3 layers of 1708. Also, wrapped the top with 3 layers of 1708. We used epoxy due to its increased strength (vs polyester), better adhesion to old polyester, and less fumes. See thread here:
268 Islander stringer repair
268 Islander stringer repair
Perfect that was one of my questions which was epoxy resin vs poly resin. I'm definitely going to take a look at the tread and get some pointers. Thanks Greauxpete!! I appreciate it.
greauxpete
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West epoxy vs polyester resin:
www.epoxyworks.com
WEST SYSTEM Epoxy vs. Polyester
Epoxy vs. polyester: Which is the better choice for fiberglass boat repair? Tom Pawlak explores the advantages and disadvantages of each.
www.epoxyworks.com
Poly is quite a bit less expensive and is plenty strong enough for the job. But I prefer epoxy (and it's what I used, as well), too. Aside from way less stink, it's more forgiving to mix and work with. You're going to go through a lot of it - while I like the West System and it's readily available and they have great "how to's", it is quite a bit more expensive than lesser known brands (I have used it - and will continue to use it at certain times, though). For my big project, I ordered all my stuff from US Composites - including about 5 gallons of epoxy.
greauxpete
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Dennis, I like west systems, among other reasons for the pumps. Can you recommend a comparable lower cost epoxy which has pumps?
Their pumps are "metered" as you know - which one pump of resin and pump of hardener. Other companies (like the one I mentioned) have pumps, too - but sometimes they're not metered... meaning you control it based on the number of pumps. For example, 3:1 - 3 pumps of resin to 1 pump of hardener.
In the end, all of the various epoxy brands will work just fine - it's more about what someone is comfortable with,
I appreciate the post I’m definitely going to be reading into it. I already have the west systems epoxy with the pumps for smaller projects I’ve been doing so I’ll be going this route then. Thanks Dennis for the input I’ll still look into the us composites to see what the savings would look like.West epoxy vs polyester resin:
WEST SYSTEM Epoxy vs. Polyester
Epoxy vs. polyester: Which is the better choice for fiberglass boat repair? Tom Pawlak explores the advantages and disadvantages of each.
I’m now looking into how I’m preparing the wood, I’ve seen some people glass and sand which two half inch boards to make the 1” stringer. Then some people get 1” boards epoxy it with no glass peanut butter it down then glass over it… any preferred methods in trying to stay as light as possible to prepare for a 4 stroke outboard maybe even two small 115s.
I’ve seen this guy on YouTube, I love the setup enclosed transom, platform and the verado 300 makes me drool. Trying to get as close to this as possible, would like twins though as a redundancy standpoint.
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The two 1/2" plys would be stronger. I don't know if there's a significant weight savings one way or the other, though.
But speaking of strength... I wouldn't pick one of those methods over the other for strength. Strength of the core material actually isn't very important. It's the integrity of the core that matters so it supports the glass.
Cause I was going to use Douglas fir unless I get any other recommendations, so far I’m leaning with 1” Douglas fir.