Adding a Windless Anchor

[jmoneilthe2]

I have a 1992 Seafarer 22 that never had a Windless Anchor installed. I was hoping to get some input from anyone who has added one to a similar boat, anyone who has some advise. I'm not getting any younger and since moving from a bay boat to a Grady, the anchor is just getting bigger and bigger and more difficult to launch.
Thanks for any advice.

 

[DennisG01]

FYI... "windlass"

It's not cheap to install (between the windlass, wiring, anchor roller, etc) - and even more-so if you have to pay someone to do it. But, aside from that small fact, it's certainly a nice piece of equipment to have.

-- Do you currently have a pulpit?
-- If not, how much room is there to install an anchor roller? Not all bow areas lend themselves to installing a windlass without a pulpit
---- Installing a pulpit may also mean moving your nav light up higher or installing side lights.
-- Where can the windlass be installed in relation to the anchor locker? Is there enough fall space? Grady's aren't known for large anchor lockers. If there isn't enough space, the rode will jam.

There's more - but that's enough to get going to see where your head is at on this.

The general installation is pretty much the same from boat to boat to boat - in case you wanted to search for previous threads/info about this.

 

[Fishtales]

You can certainly do it. You'll probably need to wire it, up size batteries, figure out a mounting plan, maybe a new roller and pulpit. If it were me, I'd bring some folks younger fishing.... A lot of work and cost for something that can be done manually. If I were buying, I'd make it a requirement though.

 

[seasick]

Depending on what has become difficult, there are less expensive options. Your boat is not that big and finding the space for an install of a windlass may be difficult. Bear in mind that even with a windlass, you need to be able to go forward to tie off, release and reattach the chain keeper, clear the inevitable jams etc. The windlass does not do it all
If deploying is your main issue, you might benefit from adding an anchor roller bracket and leave the anchor hanging off of it. That approach doesn't help that much with retrieving but the roller may make the pulling a tad easier and will definitely make the deployment easier. I also suggest that you confirm that your current anchor is the proper weight for your hull and anchoring conditions. Just going to a lighter anchor can help a lot with the retrieving part.Adding a windlass can be expensive and not necessarily easy especially if your anchor locker is small and or the locker area need to be modified or reinforced

 

[DennisG01]

Along the lines of what Seasick mentioned about just having a pulpit and/or roller... that actually makes it quite a bit easier as you can stand straight up to pull the line in. Certainly easier than leaning over the railing.

But... want to cheat and do it for free? Use the bow rail as your "roller". Deploy the anchor over the rail (but tie off under of course). Then use the rail as your roller. It will actually work very well. Of course, when you get to the chain, stop and pull the chain/anchor over the rail.

Oh... when I did this on my 22' Sea Ray, I also split a length of old garden hose and would put that on the rail in the area that I pulled the chain/anchor in just to help avoid scratches from accidentally touching the rail. I suppose if you zip-tied or clamped the hose in place you could even pull the chain directly over/on the hose.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Yep, windless is what sailors hate ...

@jmoneilthe2
I am not a big fan of windlasses, because i don't use them frequently as i am not a beach bum, i only fish and there it's too deep to anchor with a windlass.
If you want a windlass for anchoring in shallow (10-60) ft places then it's fine and useful, but for deeper a anchor ball is much cheaper, simpler and works better. I had a roller on my BW 23 Outrage but used it only to deploy, for hauling i used the anchor ball system and never looked back.
The others wrote already what to buy and how to install.

Chris

 

[Fixit]

I added a lewmar v700 to my Wellcraft v-20. it would self deploy a delta anchor off a standard simple bow roller. was nice when stopping off in a bay to anchor for the night or for a day of refreshments/bbqing. was so much nicer then hauling anchor by hand.

you'll likely need 2ga from your battery, to a circuit breaker up to the contractor, then to the windlass.

a factory pulpit would be nice. - make sure you have enough room for the shank of the anchor to nest in the roller before it hits the gypsey

mount the windlass as far back as possible to maximize free fall into the chain locker. this will make the windlass work better and maximize your capacity.

select your rope/ chain lengths. 8 strand is much nicer then the 3 strand rode. 15-50 ft of 1/4" chain and 150-200ft or 1/2" rope. (make sure everything matches the gypsey)


many of the choices you'll make will be dictated by local conditions or what you want to do with it. like if the bottom is often rocky id want 50ft of chain instead of 15. A longer chain also has more give to it if it gets rough/windy. if your sleeping over night id upsize to a heavier anchor vs if I was just day tripping. As for what anchor...its kinda like ford vs dodge vs chevy, but id recommend a rocna, a delta, or a bruce. but avoid all the knock offs (ie a sea choice branded claw)

if you can do basic wiring, comfortable drilling holes in your boat then its an easy upgrade. go for it, you'll love deploying the anchor with a switch, and retrieving it with just a push of a finger

 

[jmoneilthe2]

I added a lewmar v700 to my Wellcraft v-20. it would self deploy a delta anchor off a standard simple bow roller. was nice when stopping off in a bay to anchor for the night or for a day of refreshments/bbqing. was so much nicer then hauling anchor by hand.

you'll likely need 2ga from your battery, to a circuit breaker up to the contractor, then to the windlass.

a factory pulpit would be nice. - make sure you have enough room for the shank of the anchor to nest in the roller before it hits the gypsey

mount the windlass as far back as possible to maximize free fall into the chain locker. this will make the windlass work better and maximize your capacity.

select your rope/ chain lengths. 8 strand is much nicer then the 3 strand rode. 15-50 ft of 1/4" chain and 150-200ft or 1/2" rope. (make sure everything matches the gypsey)


many of the choices you'll make will be dictated by local conditions or what you want to do with it. like if the bottom is often rocky id want 50ft of chain instead of 15. A longer chain also has more give to it if it gets rough/windy. if your sleeping over night id upsize to a heavier anchor vs if I was just day tripping. As for what anchor...its kinda like ford vs dodge vs chevy, but id recommend a rocna, a delta, or a bruce. but avoid all the knock offs (ie a sea choice branded claw)

if you can do basic wiring, comfortable drilling holes in your boat then its an easy upgrade. go for it, you'll love deploying the anchor with a switch, and retrieving it with just a push of a finger

Thank you for the information. This is a big help.

 

[drbatts]

Windlesses make life so much easier when anchoring. I would never own a cabin boat without one. You have a common boat, there are a lot of pictures out there of them, look where the windless is installed on other boats to give you an idea of the best place to put it. You can also call up a local dealer and talk to a service guy to see where they or the factory install everything. As far as the windless goes, get one with free fall. Since you're not pulling your anchor up by hand, don't be afraid to go up in anchor size and increase the amount of chain. Don't forget to put a safety line on the anchor when it's stored on the pulpit.

 

[jmoneilthe2]

Is it necessary to install a pulpit and roller, or can I get away with just a roller installed?

 

[glacierbaze]

The right roller is all you need. This was self-launching, shorter, and easier to deal with than the Seafarer pulpit.

 

[glacierbaze]

I typically anchor in 30 feet or less, minimum scope. I have always used older Simpson Lawrence/Lewmar windlasses, run off a normal starting battery with the engine running, two #6 wires through a helm mounted circuit breaker, and an up/down switch. I never had one of the newer ones with the contactor/relay, but the older ones have been perfectly good/trouble-free for what I used them for.

 

[seasick]

I typically anchor in 30 feet or less, minimum scope. I have always used older Simpson Lawrence/Lewmar windlasses, run off a normal starting battery with the engine running, two #6 wires through a helm mounted circuit breaker, and an up/down switch. I never had one of the newer ones with the contactor/relay, but the older ones have been perfectly good/trouble-free for what I used them for.

The need for a contactor (relay) depends to a large extent on the windlass's current draw, especially under max loads. There is a limit to the current that the helm switch can carry and of course without a relay you will have longer high current runs. Some 'equivalent' windlass's call for a 49 amp breaker and others call for a 60 or even 70 amps. It is important to check the specs before sizing the wiring and other electrical parts.
If you want the ability to control the windlass at the bow and having that can save a lot of marriages, some sort of relay will be necessary.

 

[rocketguy88]

Get a GPS trolling motor and completely forget about the windlass. I have a windlass on my 236 Fisherman and haven't used it once in the two years since I've had a trolling motor. I've had 13 fishing trips so far in 2024 (i work full time as an engineer and have two youg kids in sports, so 13 trips is a lot actually), and not once has that anchor left the bow roller.

 

[seasick]

Get a GPS trolling motor and completely forget about the windlass. I have a windlass on my 236 Fisherman and haven't used it once in the two years since I've had a trolling motor. I've had 13 fishing trips so far in 2024 (i work full time as an engineer and have two youg kids in sports, so 13 trips is a lot actually), and not once has that anchor left the bow roller.

I guess you dont 'anchor' off the beach vey often and go for a dip

 

[rocketguy88]

I guess you dont 'anchor' off the beach vey often and go for a dip

Nope. Not one bit.

 

[jmoneilthe2]

I want to thank those who shared their wisdom on my subject of installing a windlass to my 1992 Seafarer 22..
I just finished installing my windlass and it is working great. I didn't go with a pulpit, but only a bow roller. I reinforced the anchor locker hatch with a half inch plexy glass and a couple of straps to boot and mounted the windlass on that. It is extremely sturdy and should do well. The wiring was straight forward with one little hitch with the Lewmar instruction but I figured it out. Thanks again.

 

[DennisG01]

Did you buy that anchor on sale? They sold you a blem... it was made upside down by mistake...

 

[TMANN]

Ur gonna be walking to the bow and kicking that anchor off the roller.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Does the bow roller has a ring where the chain and rope run's inside to avoid that rope/chain get pulled sidewards out of the roller?
Does the roller has a pivoting part where the roller wheel is?
You should make a stop and a lock that the anchor stop more in front than now that flukes look downward and a lock device that anchor can't jump out of the roller if wavy.

Or did you did not finished the work already?

Chris