Adding Auxiliary Tank

leeccoll

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Lots of progress :p

I can't tell from your pics one way or the other, but my tank fabricator suggested I placed a set of front spacers between the tank and forward coffin bulkhead incase I would ever come down off plane fast with a full tank of fuel, you don't want the tank slamming into that bulkhead. Just a courtesy passing of information.

Nice upgrade LT.
 

Lite Tackle

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Lots of progress :p

I can't tell from your pics one way or the other, but my tank fabricator suggested I placed a set of front spacers between the tank and forward coffin bulkhead incase I would ever come down off plane fast with a full tank of fuel, you don't want the tank slamming into that bulkhead. Just a courtesy passing of information.

Nice upgrade LT.
I glued two, 2” vertical strips of 1/2” neoprene (60 duro) to the front of tank. Will do the same in morning when I block the aft end. Want to replace lid and seal up tomorrow. Think I should get fuel in it first? Not that I don’t trust my work:rolleyes:
 

leeccoll

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You know what you are doing. I was trying to be helpful in case that got overlooked.

I'm guessing you live in the South Bay?
 

Lite Tackle

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You know what you are doing. I was trying to be helpful in case that got overlooked.

I'm guessing you live in the South Bay?

I am in Fairfield. 15 min. to Susuin Bay (big sturgeon and stripers). 45 min. to San Francisco Bay (halibut and stripers). 60 min. to Bodega Bay (Salmon, ling cod and rock fish, crab). Not to mention the rivers. Fisherman’s paradise. My daughter graduated from UNR last year. Been up there many times.
 

leeccoll

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Sure, know the whole area well. I was just guessing by the houses in one of your pics.
Hoping we can get out and fish together at some point. My older son is a Sophomore at UNR.

Speaking of Sturgies, this is me 30+ years ago with a 6'er at the dock in San Rafael, caught this right off China Camp during strong tide change.
Trailered the boat back into San Francisco, the woman who took my toll money at the Golden Gate Bridge asked me if I caught anything, told her yes but it's in the back of my boat, but I will pull up 15 feet and stop so you can see it. Never saw someone freak out like that when she actually saw it as I am looking from my rear view mirror. Classic!

Ps-Gotta love them white socks in pic
 

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Ky Grady

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Nice work LT. Where there is a will, there is a way.

I enjoy the option of two tanks, except when I had to replace both! 148 if I'm all in or 56 if I'm just piddling around and don't want all the weight. I primarily use the auxiliary tank as that shifts my weight forward. If I'm running both tanks, I'll use up main one first, again allowing the weight to be forward.
 

SirGrady226

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As stated in my restoration post, replacing my tank in my 87, what really stood out was that everywhere the rubber strips contacted the tank is where extensive corrosion occurred. The rest of the bare aluminum had a light oxidation on it with no sign of a problem. The early design of my bilge has raised pads that hold the tank about 1-1/4" or so above the bottom of the bilge. These contact areas are where the most pressure and slight movement would occur, rubber strips were placed over these and held moisture against the tank. The sides of the tank had wood wedges screwed to the stringers and bulkheads with rubber strips in between, these areas also caused deep corrosion. Lastly, the top of the tank had three 2x4's with rubber strips between them and the tank screwed to each stringer, again, deep corrosion present. My main concern during replacement was trying to eliminate the rubber product, and the rubbing or movement against the tank surface. On the bottom I attached 3/16" fiberglass pads with 5200 at every contact point on the bottom, then placing expanded PVC between those and the raised pads in the bilge. All side and top contact points had the expanded PVC attached with 5200 so no moisture can get between it and the tank. My thinking is that the expanded pvc will allow slight cushion but movement will not occur against the tank and wear at the epoxy primer. Also, I'm told that rubber accelerates corrosion on aluminum because of carbon content. It will be interesting to see down the road how well it holds up, the epoxy primer and 5200 would have to give up before any moisture can get to the aluminum.

My 226 having twin outboards required it to only have a forward located main tank for weight balance, the rear compartment is empty. I'm considering installing a small fresh water tank in it at some point. I also considered having a fish box retro fitted into that space that could also be used for storage.
 

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As stated in my restoration post, replacing my tank in my 87, what really stood out was that everywhere the rubber strips contacted the tank is where extensive corrosion occurred. The rest of the bare aluminum had a light oxidation on it with no sign of a problem. The early design of my bilge has raised pads that hold the tank about 1-1/4" or so above the bottom of the bilge. These contact areas are where the most pressure and slight movement would occur, rubber strips were placed over these and held moisture against the tank. The sides of the tank had wood wedges screwed to the stringers and bulkheads with rubber strips in between, these areas also caused deep corrosion. Lastly, the top of the tank had three 2x4's with rubber strips between them and the tank screwed to each stringer, again, deep corrosion present. My main concern during replacement was trying to eliminate the rubber product, and the rubbing or movement against the tank surface. On the bottom I attached 3/16" fiberglass pads with 5200 at every contact point on the bottom, then placing expanded PVC between those and the raised pads in the bilge. All side and top contact points had the expanded PVC attached with 5200 so no moisture can get between it and the tank. My thinking is that the expanded pvc will allow slight cushion but movement will not occur against the tank and wear at the epoxy primer. Also, I'm told that rubber accelerates corrosion on aluminum because of carbon content. It will be interesting to see down the road how well it holds up, the epoxy primer and 5200 would have to give up before any moisture can get to the aluminum.

My 226 having twin outboards required it to only have a forward located main tank for weight balance, the rear compartment is empty. I'm considering installing a small fresh water tank in it at some point. I also considered having a fish box retro fitted into that space that could also be used for storage.
My understanding is that closed cell neoprene has no carbon. I wonder if GW used neoprene or a rubber with carbon content. It is interesting that they changed the design of the tank box. I saw the risers built in and fiberglassed on the earlier models. Seemed that that may have been a better design then just the rubber strips holding the tank off the bottom. I like the idea of the fish hold and thought about fabbing one if I went with a single forward tank.
 

leeccoll

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My old tank had rubber strips n wood wedges too. It was corroded where the rubber touched as well.

So Grady used some type of rubber that contained carbon back in the day.
 

SirGrady226

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My old tank had rubber strips n wood wedges too. It was corroded where the rubber touched as well.

So Grady used some type of rubber that contained carbon back in the day.
Upon reading up on the subject, not much is said about carbon in the rubber being the main problem. Tests show that rubber against aluminum in a marine environment where sea water can come into contact between these two materials greatly increases crevice corrosion. I believe electrolysis has something to do with it also. Every tank I have seen that sat on rubber showed extensive corrosion at these contact points, also where certain gaskets used on the tank sending units were used.
 

DennisG01

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I suppose that "a while ago" rubber (w/carbon) was used and then, at some point along the way, manufacturers stopped using "rubber" and started using a different material (w/o carbon), although they/we may generally still refer to it as rubber.

In the end, it would have been a combination of carbon and crevice corrosion. Live and learn - both manufactuers and us!

All of this could be avoided by using plastic tanks, though! Many, MANY manufacturers use plastic tanks. If/when I need to replace my tank (92g), I will definitely be looking into plastic. If I can find one that is close enough in price (could be less!) and doesn't require major refitment, that's my plan. Plop it on the bottom of the coffin floor, secure it in just about any way... done. Maybe create a false floor bottom, first, for drainage... but that would be super easy... and then also allow for a square bottom tank (making finding one that fits even easier).
 

seasick

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Aluminum does not corrode when exposed to water AND air. If it is exposed to water but not air, it will corrode. There are a few things that can be done to reduce this crevice corrosion Use a material like fiber reinforced panel material. Haysite FRP is one brand. I suppose that FRP material from Home Depot would work but it is pretty thin and multiple layers would have to be glues up to get the thickness needed The strips should not extend to the edges of the tank or up the sides.In other words, there should be no part of the strip that extends past the tank or any part of the end that has a gap between it and the tank bottom. That will insure that water will not get trapped or pool. The strip should be adhered to the tank. Many folks incorrectly glue the strip it to the stringers and lay the tank on top of the strip. Rather, the strip should completely bedded to the tank with a lot of 5200 and left to set before placing the tank on the supports. You can use adhesive there also but it will could make the tank a lot harder to remove if needed.
 

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Finished fuel plumbing and cleaned battery box a bit (sorry for the crap picture)94D6D1B1-33A6-4C7B-A32C-45067C92E171.jpegCleaned old silicone off cover and box and then secured with hardware (silicone sealer under screw heads). Taped off and applied a bead of GE silicone 2+ in almond. Says 30 min rain ready but I’ll let cure over night.
8AEB7AB9-0EE7-47E3-B68F-6F38A69D3CCD.jpeg
 
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Lite Tackle

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Filled both tanks and no restrictions or fuel pump shutoff. Headed out and took it for a ride. Ran off both tanks and no issue there. Most importantly, no gasoline odor. The gauge appears to be working for both tanks.
Better pictures of the sealed up lid and mounted fuel valve. Will add something (decal, plate, etc.) to define which tank is being used at valve. Suggestions welcome.
865CAA57-40C7-4EE6-9330-CB06779F9B13.jpeg33853FF4-B1CB-4471-845B-4C2E9D7AC88A.jpeg