Anyone used one of these?

[RussGW270]

Good? Bad? Indifferent?

Curious if they save time/energy.

trying to locate my yds 1.33 cd...unloading the boat, and figured to see if anyone here ever tried these.

Also adding a picture of all the current fittings, for reference...

 

[igblack87]

Russ...like you said in a different post...your fuel/water separator's need some TLC . Anything new or upgraded...most likely will be an upgrade.

 

[RussGW270]

Amen to that. I was debating posting on THT that anyone that can safely remove 200 gallons of ethanol fuel can have all the fuel, that way I can crack everything open and start swapping things out. As soon as I freaking find the cd for the yamaha 1.33. I put it somewhere safe and brother is it safe heh.

R

 

[SkunkBoat]

Seriously, you need to replace those with Stainless manifolds and/or stop the salt from dripping on them.... and yes, the clear bowls are great.
Be aware that there are 2 sizes of thread and you will need filters to match the thread of the manifold that you buy.

I use the Racor 3213 or Sierra 18-7919 filters.

The one you have pictured will work but stainless would be better.

 

[RussGW270]

Okay, stainless it is. Will return these and get those, thanks Skunk.

Will make sure to get the fittings too.

R

 

[seasick]

Make sure you have the room. The filter with clear bottom tank is longer than a standard spin on filter.

 

[RussGW270]

Make sure you have the room. The filter with clear bottom tank is longer than a standard spin on filter.

Was what I planned to measure before I opened them up, very good point.

R

 

[gw204]

Check USCG regluations on those clear bowls. I could be wrong but I believe you can't use those in closed compartments.

 

[RussGW270]

Really? I mean...I’ll check, but did not know these would be an issue since a majority of the boats would exclude the use. Sounds a bit too stringent, but will make sure to check it out.

R

 

[Sparkdog118]

The racor brand is the only one that holds up the best. They have a better gage metal, better epoxy coating, and better filter paper that does not break down as easy. When I get a boat in that has the aftermarket replacement, I usually have to clean the yellow filter dust Caused by the cheap filter paper out of the whole fuel system. With racor, you get what you pay for.

 

[Sparkdog118]

Check USCG regluations on those clear bowls. I could be wrong but I believe you can't use those in closed compartments.

I believe that is true. I have never seen a problem from putting clear bowls under the deck. Never heard of a violation or even a warning concerning this either. Guess they don’t enforce this at all. They recommend metal bowls.

 

[seasick]

I believe that is true. I have never seen a problem from putting clear bowls under the deck. Never heard of a violation or even a warning concerning this either. Guess they don’t enforce this at all. They recommend metal bowls.

I believe the plastic bowl is not allowed when there is an engine in the compartment. I think for outboards, it is OK.

 

[Ky Grady]

Russ,,,I've got a Yamaha aluminum head I took off to replace with the SS one. It's in very good shape, it's yours if you want it.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I believe the plastic bowl is not allowed when there is an engine in the compartment. I think for outboards, it is OK.

correct, not allowed in "engine space"...ie Inboards and I/O...

 

[Parthery]

As others have said, you can use a clear bowl, as long as you don't have an engine in the compartment.

My bracket looked like that as well....when I saw the price of new SS ones, I took it off...hit it with some sandpaper, and 2 coats of flat black rust-oleum. Looks brand new now.

As for the filters, you can buy the Yamaha ones online for about $20 apiece. Only a couple bucks more than the Sierra ones.

 

[RussGW270]

Okay, just adding a note about what I added to tht, simply so I can hit more ideas.. but I was able to finally get the diagnostic tool to work on the boat and.. does not tell me squatt.. lol

So, have to go with the assumption there is more going on than just fuel.

According to the diags... nothing occurred to the engines, no alarms at all, since I owned them.. heh. So, that was not so helpful

 

[glacierbaze]

I'm not sure that something like a low idle water pressure alarm, or a temp warning below a certain point would throw a code. You get lights and alarms every time you turn the key on. What was the situation when the alarms went off, idling or running?

 

[RussGW270]

Driving, but pretty slow. In all, it seemed like a low water pressure or high temp alarm since it came on after it warmed up, then took a little time to come on again after a restart. So, going to approach it from that angle and start tracing it back from there.

I plan to compression check both engines and then do a full maintenance cycle, oil etc. will also trace down the cooling aspects and make sure nothing is blocking anything or corroded. By that time, some indicator should show.

 

[Sparkdog118]

First place I would look is the thermostat cavities. Then on to the water pump. You said it overheats at idle or high speed? High speed is h20 pump first then thermostat, then salt build up. Low speed start with thermostat. Then pump.

 

[RussGW270]

Yes, the thermostat is on the list. Essentially, this boat was not taken care of. When I removed the cowling, one was missing the cover for the flywheel. Rust had set in. The cable for the diagnostics was not even capped. The whole engine needs to be looked over so, is not going to be any one thing or it will just break again.

This will end up being taken down and cleaned and put back together right. Not a slow process, but one that will end up helping this boat last a lot of years. So, in the meantime, I guess my snapper season is over unless I get a charter or another ride. No big deal. I would rather have the boat fixed right.

So, in for the long haul.

R