Autopilot- Garmin Reactor 40 with Smartpump info

[SkunkBoat]

I installed this in spring 2019. Here are related threads
AutoPilot upgrade from manual hydraulic
Field replaceable fittings for SeaStar 5/16ID hose
It has worked flawlessly on long runs in seriously ugly crap and I consider it one of the best upgrades I’ve ever done on the boat.
It crapped out on a trip in July 2022. Tuna/canyon trips have been a royal pain since….

It is out of warranty. Stopped moving the motors but I could hear the pump run. No errors. Eventually while troubleshooting stopped hearing pump run too. Error log shows some ECU voltage low errors. I think it bound up. It was not power connection or battery problem. Garmin support has been long and drawn out with sometimes a week before email response. Often they did not read my response correctly or LOOK at the pictures I sent.
I opened up the ECU and found some crusties inside. IDK how that is possible considering the dry, hidden space where it is mounted. Had to be from condensation. I suppose its possible that the tackle tray box was loose and water ran inside along the box? But there was no sign of salt on the outside of the pump.

Garmin tech said “no problem, I can send a rebuilt ECU14. $159 plus another $159 deposit until we get your bad one back.” I said “great! send it!”
I get it and it is not the ECU for a smartpump. "Oh, sorry you need a whole rebuilt smartpump. we don't sell just the ECU for a smartpump" REALLY. Everything I have said was in reference to a smartpump and there were PICTURES!
“$1000 for rebuilt plus $1000 deposit until we get your bad one.” “SEND It.” I sent back the ECU14 on their RMA and told them it was the good one they sent and I also need my money back for the deposit for the "bad" one since there is no bad one because YOU sent me the wrong part. It took a month of emails to get the second $159.
I received the Smart pump and installed after pulling the boat for the season. did the dockside wizard. everythng good.

I’ve been trying to get a new UPS shipping label from Garmin for a week to send back the bad one and get my $1000 deposit back. I’m on the third try now.

 

[SkunkBoat]

So I have a written statement (actually I made them say it in several emails) that they will start the 90 day warranty on the pump when I launch in the spring and not now while my boat is in my driveway for 6 months.

The rebuilt pump is a “V2” which has a cast manifold instead of a machined manifold. The V2 uses different fittings. Actually better because they are ORB-5 ports which is the same as the newer Seastar steering. In the picture you can see the ORB-5 fitting is smaller than previous. The stainless hex fittings were adapters to female 1/4 NPT. The NPT threads needed dope or tape, which isn’t ideal for hydraulics. Then you needed an adapter from 1/4 NPT to 9/16-24 (3/8 OD Tube/compression thread) so you can screw on the Seastar hoses. The hose fittings have o-rings in them.
With the new ORB-5 ports in the manifold, I used Seastar elbows (HF6004) directly. So no dope is needed because both sides of the connections use o-rings.
Also, ORB elbows can always be aligned and tightened in the proper direction, unlike NPT elbows.
So, long story short, I used three Seastar ORB-5 Elbow fittings on the new pump

I was going to install valves on the Tees to the pump (actually bought them $11 each) but they were 1/4 NPT female on both ends which would require more adapters and thread dope. While I was working on it, I used 3/8 OD compression thread end caps on the Tees. They leaked a tiny bit because I didn’t use dope. I think you could use nylon washer inside the cap and it would seal. So, instead of valves, just have end caps with washers ready when you disconnect the hoses. Hopefully, this pump works a long time.

I used this opportunity to flush out and refill the hydraulic fluid. I buy a gallon can of Shell Milspec 5606A on Amazon for less than the price of two QTs of Seastar fluid

 

[SkunkBoat]

update:
I did the AP calibration "wizards". Working well in the river. Good to have it back. Last half of last season was hell on 2 or 3 hr runs with no AP.

 

[dogdoc]

How do you bleed after opening system? I usually call my mechanic, he has one of those pump systems.

 

[SkunkBoat]

There is a thread about that on here somewhere. There are videos on Youtube. Forget about Qt bottles and sticking a pin. I buy a gallon of Shell Mil 5606A on amazon prime. Cut an old bottle to connect with 3/8 tubing and threaded 1/4 NPT hose barb. I flush out each side until new fluid comes out. Then I use the jumper tubing across the cylinder method to prime until air is gone. Keep the funnel full and crank the wheel one direction and watch the air bubbles come up.
After you think you got it...
With AP, also run the motors back & forth with buttons to prime the compensation line. Check over several days. Use a small squeeze bottle to top off.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Update: the replacement AP pump (Smartpumpv2) ran well all season.

 

[family affair]

I didn't know the reactor 40 could handle twins. How many versions of the reactor 40 are there?

 

[SkunkBoat]

Reactor 40 with Smartpumpv2 will handle anything.

The Compact Reactor is the lighter duty model

 

[Billv]

I believe there is also a standard garmin 1.2L and 2.0L pump that will work on twin engines depending on the size of the engines and helm pump