Bilge System Modifications

[SilverLining]

My 272 Sailfish came with two 1500 gph Rule bilge pumps.....one for the aft bilge and one for the forward bilge. These pumps/switches have no indicator lights or indicators(buzzers/alarms). So, you have no indication that the pumps are operating while underway.

Replaced the aft pump with a 2000 gph Rule two years ago when the 1500 failed. Since we fish typically up to 25-35 miles offshore in the Gulf, I have had a concern about the lack of indication if a pump is running.

Have thought of a high water alarm or a second pump mounted slightly higher than the original aft pump with a light/sound signal when it is activated.

Has anyone else had this concern or made any modifications to their boats???? :hmm

 

[wspitler]

Put a high water alarm in the bilge of my 330. Not hard and I mounted it only slightly above the pump so if the pump can't keep up I'll know. We sleep out at night and getting out of a capsized cabin at night is tough.

 

[fishbust]

A high water alarm is a great idea.

For offshore, another great idea is a completely independent back up bilge pump system...

Another great idea is an extra back up deep cycle house battery in case you do have to pump a lot of water...

 

[suzukidave]

i installed a small red dash light beside the bilge switch on a previous boat. it was on whenever the pump was on . i imagine you could rig a lighted dash switch to do the same thing.

 

[dstarok]

Check out ultra pump switches. They turn your pump on and have another set of contacts to give you a high water alarm. I think you could set the switch up to have the alarm operate a indicator light when the water is high enough to energize your pump.
They are highly rated to out last other switches. They come with long leads with heat connectors. High quality stuff, but not cheap lol. But I'd rather pay more now for something that will last than fool around with erratic float switches. I installed a back up bilge pump and both my pumps have ultra switches, one with the alarm relay. They also make a VERY loud water resistant alarm which I mounted by my batteries. If I was docked it would definitely alert anyone in the marina if my boat was taking on water, and can definitely be heard above the sound of my engines while cruising.
I bought from RG Products at http://store.rgproducts1.net
They are real helpful and can give you the phone number to the guy who makes the switches, great information and advice from him.
Good luck!

 

[fishbust]

Yes the Ultra's have a good reputation.

The only reason (aside from them also not fitting in many forward bilges) I do not use the ultra is there is no means to mechanically/electrically test the float switch. I physically test my float switches regularly, have used many types/brands over the decades and the white super switches have been completely reliable to me. A good reputation (ultra) is not good enough for me as I do not live on hope. My float switches must be physically tested regularly to prove themselves. The bilge pumps and battery systems are the 2 most important things on a boat.

The blue sure-bail switches that come with many Grady's eventually break the wires due to twisting. Witnessed this in my forward bilge (passed the survey [from the dash] but failed MY test for the float switch) and rewired it all with a new super switch. The super switches to not twist the wires with movement, so eventually all my switches get changed over. Only 1 more blue switch left on my boat to remove.

 

[J-Sea]

fishbust - i like the looks of the setup for your backup bilge - can you provide some more pictures / details on how you mounted what appears to be a starboard shelf, etc. I'd like to add a similar setup to mine.

Any help would be much appreciated.

JC

 

[Doc Stressor]

It's actually pretty easy to test an Ultra pump switch. I just loosen the hose clamp, remove the switch, and turn it upside down. You can also raise the float with the pump in place by using a good magnet.

Actually, the design of the switch is such that if it has power going to it, it will work. The float can't foul and everything else is solid state. There is an LED on the pump that lets you know if the power is connected properly.

 

[fishbust]

It's actually pretty easy to test an Ultra pump switch. I just loosen the hose clamp, remove the switch, and turn it upside down. You can also raise the float with the pump in place by using a good magnet.

Actually, the design of the switch is such that if it has power going to it, it will work. The float can't foul and everything else is solid state. There is an LED on the pump that lets you know if the power is connected properly.

I fix things for a living, everything can and will fail, eventually.

Removing the switch for regular testing is why I didn't buy one. I may have went for an ultra with built in alarm circuit if I knew at the time it could be physically tested with a magnet every trip to the boat. Thanks for that Doc, will keep that in mind next time around. Those switches are praised by those who have them.

 

[fishbust]

fishbust - i like the looks of the setup for your backup bilge - can you provide some more pictures / details on how you mounted what appears to be a starboard shelf, etc. I'd like to add a similar setup to mine.

Any help would be much appreciated.

JC

Hey J-Sea, you are correct. I just used starboard material and SS L-brackets to form the shelf and it is secured by screws up top. Wires are intentionally long so it can be removed out of the way to access the float switch underneath. I use the same pumps so they can share bases. If the lower pump was to fail I would likely swap them to pump water as low as possible. The upper pump is there in case of lower pump failure in my absence (peace of mind) or if something goes wrong and the lower pump cannot keep up with the problem (more peace of mind).

 

[J-Sea]

Fishbust - thanks very much - appreciate it...i venture off-shore frequently and have been looking to add a back-up bilge.

I assume that they are each rigged to separate actuator / rocker switches on the dash? So that they are totally independent?

JC

 

[suzukidave]

i have used a similar shelf made of glassed plywood to mount the lower bilge pump with the attachment screws to the boat being high up on the transom. it leaves no screw holes penetrating the hull or transom down where it is wet and the whole thing is easy to remove and service.

 

[ROBERTH]

I used PVC board and 5200 to hull bottom to mount aux. 2000gph pump. Placed the float switch above on shelf which was a few inches above primary float switch and pump.
So far, no issues with this setup. The PVC is not going to rot or soak up water. The 5200 will hold it for life.

I mounted a new Rule switch system at the helm for the aux. pump and also installed a Johnson High Water Alarm.

Would love to have some red led's installed on the dash to know when they run, but not sure how to do that. Even if I did, not sure I would see them when running in daytime so haven't gone to extent of trying it.

 

[fishbust]

Robert, looks good but the float switches should be facing aft and you may want to use some zip ties to prevent the wiring from fouling in the floats.

 

[ROBERTH]

Hi Fishbust, the install was not complete in this photo for the wiring. You can see that the pump wiring is just laying there and not connected yet. All is nice and neat now. I could not find my latest photo at time of this post.
In regards to facing aft, they were that way before and kept coming on when taking off, but water was not reaching the pump, so moved them this way for a while and all was well. This was causing un-necessary pump cycling.
Latest change following year was to replace the rotted pad that was embedded in the hull. I used PVC and epoxy/glass so it would not rot anymore and repositioned everything.
I found this photo later after posting earlier one that should show the proper layout. The float switch facing in this direction has worked out perfectly so far.

 

[TUNAHUNTER197]

I am thinking about installing a second/backup bilge pump and a float switch in my aft bilge, and had a few questions that I am hoping the knowledgeable folks of GreatGrady can help me out with:

1. Do I need to drill an additional thru-hull for the hose to pump the water out, or do you tap into the existing one? Some examples would be very helpful here.

2. It sounds like I would need to install a switch at the dash for the backup bilge pump, please confirm?

3. Has anyone configured a secondary/backup bilge pump for their 265 Express and has pictures of where they installed it?

Thanks again gentleman!

 

[ROBERTH]

Pics of Rule Secondary Pump Switch mounted to helm area and also Johnson High Water Alarm.
Pics of Installation of thru hull for Secondary Pump inside view and outside view. New one is to far left with shiny new hose.
Make sure you use the smooth wall hose for best output.

 

[TUNAHUNTER197]

Thanks for the quick reply....this is very helpful!

 

[ROBERTH]

Your Welcome! I also meant to say that the far left hose/thru hull is the new output, the one in the middle is the primary pump output.
It is never recommended to tie them together as they will compete and severely cut back the throughput volume and defeat the purpose of having 2 pumps.
If I was taking on water, you would want both running hard if you know what I mean.

 

[SilverLining]

Thanks to all for the suggestions and comments. After my experience last month, my boat will not go back off-shore until an additional bilge pump is installed in the aft bilge of my 272. Although it might be belt and suspenders, I am also going to add a separate high water alarm in the boat as well as having an alarm/light in the new pump system.

My thoughts are to add a 2000 gph pump with the float switch only several inches higher that the float switch for the original pump which is now a 2000 gph Rule. At some time in the future, I will add another battery under the live well as suggested by fishbust. This battery will be dedicated to the new pump but will be able to be used as a "utility or spare battery" in addition to the three already in the boat.
For whatever reason, G-W wired the forward pump(1500 gph) to the house battery and the aft pump(now 2000 gph) to the S/B motor start battery, so I will probably wire the pump to the Port starting battery. ?????

Checking the photos supplied by fishbust and RobertH seem to indicate that the new pump is mounted higher that the original pump. Help me understand the logic for this. Seems that in an Oh My Gosh situation, when the lower pump/float switch fails, you would want to pump out as much water as you could(while you attempt to effect repairs). In that case, I would think that the pump should be mounted at about the same height as the existing pump, not 4 or 5 inches above it. I am aware that the pump will shut off whenever the float switch tells it to do so now matter where it is located. What am I missing here??? Or am I just overthinking this? :hmm