bunk guides

[luckydude]

I've taken to driving my 228 onto the trailer and I'd like some guides. Perhaps something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/CE-Smith-Replacement-Accessories-Sailboat/dp/B001445EUW/

Has anyone added those to your trailer, and if so, do you like them? If you like them, make/model please?

 

[Don Davis]

I have these for my Seafarer, they do help as my kicker tends to throw the boat too much to port when pulling it out of the water, these came with the boat and the Road Runner trailer

 

[Holokai]

Go heavier duty than the CE Smiths if you have to contend with current/wind regularly; the name of the manufacturer escapes me now but I’ll post it if I can find it. Go with at least 3 foot side bunks; I have 8’ bunks with 3 uprights on each side. Don’t need to have them tight against the hull either as they only serve to keep the boat generally centered. Your support bunks should be setup for the boat to load straight-balanced.

Also look at keel/center/target bunks as they can provide additional support. When driving on you’ll want to keep the engine in fwd idle; once you put it into neutral you lose a lot of steerage as the hull needs forward movement/propulsion for control. Not sure if you’re driving on all the way but if so you may want to also consider a beefier/wide bow stop instead of the roller.

Lastly, no matter what, learn how far to back your trailer in at various ramps at different tides. All the modifications are only helpful with adequate knowledge and practice.

 

[SeanC]

Check that your trailer is designed for drive on. Some aluminium trailers with bunks are float-on only. Driving on can damage the trailer.

 

[Byram]

Lucky, in the photo section check out Weso's pic of his seafarer and the robust guides he has on his trailer. Hes west coast but way south of you

 

[DennisG01]

For many, many years, I've used the vertical poles on different boats - including my current one. Personally, I just like the idea that the "rubbing" is against the rubrail instead of the side of the boat. They give a little bit so if you're coming in a little hot, it's not a "hard" hit. There are some cheap ones out there - so just make sure to get ones with more metal inside (taller). This is not to say the horizontal ones are bad - just a different means to an end.

Plus... the vertical poles can make it easier to see the trailer when the boat isn't on it. AND... you can get vertical poles that have lights on the top so loading at night is much easier.

Do you have a roller or bunk trailer?

 

[luckydude]

I have a bunk trailer.

 

[DennisG01]

OK, so this is just a side note... If you have carpet on your bunks, replace/add it with "bunk slicks" - basically, plastic. It makes the boat slide on/off SOOOOO much easier. It's almost like a roller trailer.

 

[leeccoll]

I added these on my Pacific trailer for $400 when it was built. It can be added anytime. Had the CE Smiths prior to this setup on my previous trailer and Holokai is right, they were useless.

Also added the Surfixinc slicks on top of my carpet, as Dennis suggested.

The trailer guides really make centering the boat on the trailer on windy days a breeze -especially cross wind loading.

The addition of steps was a nice bonus too

 

[seasick]

How is your canvas top attached to the Bimini frame? Usually the cross supports slide through pockets and the canvas can't come off unless you disassemble the frame.

 

[Ky Grady]

I've got the tall upright ones on my trailer. Came with it. Work well to control the back of the boat in crosswind or current.

 

[luckydude]

I added these on my Pacific trailer for $400 when it was built. It can be added anytime. Had the CE Smiths prior to this setup on my previous trailer and Holokai is right, they were useless.

That is exactly what I want. It will keep the boat off the fenders when the current surges. Thanks for the pics!

 

[leeccoll]

Sure thing!

I see they sell 5' lenghts online, but if you call Pacific and talk to Luis Campalans, I'm sure he will hook you up.

Guides - Side Load Guides

Boat Trailer Guide-ons or Loading Guides easily let you center your boat on your boat trailer during windy conditions, challenging currents or tough launch ramp conditions. Carpeted bunk board and roller guides are available in complete kits or loose parts. When ordering roller guide-ons or bunk...

pacifictrailers.com

 

[leeccoll]

How is your canvas top attached to the Bimini frame? Usually the cross supports slide through pockets and the canvas can't come off unless you disassemble the frame.

Mine has a zipper on that pocket it slides through. Not sure if was an aftermarket addition since I bought the boat used.

 

[luckydude]

Sure thing!

I see they sell 5' lenghts online, but if you call Pacific and talk to Luis Campalans, I'm sure he will hook you up.

Guides - Side Load Guides

Boat Trailer Guide-ons or Loading Guides easily let you center your boat on your boat trailer during windy conditions, challenging currents or tough launch ramp conditions. Carpeted bunk board and roller guides are available in complete kits or loose parts. When ordering roller guide-ons or bunk...

pacifictrailers.com

Luis and I have talked in the past, you might remember my winch post was messed up, he straightened that all out. Stand up dude.

 

[Holokai]

...
Also added the Surfixinc slicks on top of my carpet, as Dennis suggested.

The trailer guides really make centering the boat on the trailer on windy days a breeze -especially cross wind loading.

The addition of steps was a nice bonus too

We drive on/off and disconnect the winch strap before backing down the ramp (when launching) and after bringing the boat up the ramp (when retrieving). I have carpet covered bunks and tested multiple times at the ramps we use (with the winch strap attached) to verify that I could drive off/on without the boat slipping back. Bunk covers make the loading a lot easier but depending on your ramp and trailer they’re so slick that you might need to keep the winch connected and won’t be able to do the high speed drive off/on.

I just re-carpeted the side bunks but am considering something similar to Lee’s setup when the main bunk carpet wears out.

IMHO all trailers with side bunks should have that type of ladder setup; it makes getting on/off so much easier.

 

[luckydude]

We drive on/off and disconnect the winch strap before backing down the ramp (when launching) and after bringing the boat up the ramp (when retrieving). I have carpet covered bunks and tested multiple times at the ramps we use (with the winch strap attached) to verify that I could drive off/on without the boat slipping back. Bunk covers make the loading a lot easier but depending on your ramp and trailer they’re so slick that you might need to keep the winch connected and won’t be able to do the high speed drive off/on.

I just re-carpeted the side bunks but am considering something similar to Lee’s setup when the main bunk carpet wears out.

IMHO all trailers with side bunks should have that type of ladder setup; it makes getting on/off so much easier.

I'm still learning (though not a n00b any more, around 65 trips in the last 14 months). I leave the winch strap on while backing down the ramp, even though I, like you, have found that the carpet will hold the boat, I just want that habit for that one time I'm at a strange ramp and it is steeper. So I back down the ramp until I'm just at the edge of the water under the winch post, pop out, undo the strap, back in until my fenders are under water, stomp the brakes, it slides right off. I've got launching and docking pretty dialed in, I've done it solo probably close to a dozen times; it's easier with another person but I can do it if I have to. Mostly drama free. Adding a boat hook to the mix helped before I learned how to dock.

I don't want the plastic slicks, I've figured out how to work with the carpeted bunks and I like it. As you said, you need to know how deep you want your trailer, too shallow and you get a winch work out, too deep and the boat doesn't center properly. For me, with my Pacific trailer, the fenders submerged about an inch under water is just about right.

One thing that happens to me almost every time is I get it winched on, pull it up the ramp, and it is an inch or two off the rubber whatever you call that. So I've taken to getting up 5mph or slower, stomp on the brakes, it slides forward. Do you guys do that or what do you do for that gap?

 

[Holokai]

A lot of times we’ve had that issue when the trailer was in a little too deep and/or when the ramp angle was steep, causing the boat to settle back as it was pulled out of the water.

It should be noted that we need to use a bit more throttle to power on all the way but my trailer is set up with a reinforced bow catch to prevent any damage to the winch post so I’m comfortable doing so.

I also suspect I don’t back in as far as you and I’m sure my boat sits higher on the trailer if Pacific sets up their trailers consistently (4x8 main bunks on edge on mine vs 2x4/2x6 bunks flat).

Maybe try backing the trailer in a little less and powering it up? Use the top edge of your fenders as a reference to be consistent relative to how you’re doing it now. Trimming the engine up a little while driving on might to take weight off the bow.

 

[luckydude]

I like the trimming the engine up idea, it does feel like it settles, so more bow up might be a thing. Thanks!

 

[wrxhoon]

I've got the tall upright ones on my trailer, like KY has. My trailer came with them, they work well. Obviously Lee's would be even better because the boat can't move sideways at all. I have seen trailers with two tall uprights, one at the very rear like mine and one on front of the guards. I have a second set but as my set up works I never bothered to fit them on.
I use the same slides as Lee has as well, the trailer acts almost like having rollers, I first used them on a trailer about 13 years ago and I'll never go back to carpet or rollers. I don't undo the safety chain or winch strap until I back the trailer in the water, the boat will slide off on to the concrete.
I have my boat sitting as low as possible on the trailer, the centre of gravity is lower, better on the road and the trailer doesn't have to be as far in the water .
I drive on the the winch post but I have it reinforced, I don't trust the factory set up, looks very flimsy to me. In an accident the boat will end up in the Landcruiser cabin. Depending on the ramp I use as to how far in the trailer goes, in any case the rear wheels of the LC are 3'-6' away from the water.
I always trim the motor up, lifts the bow, saves my prop getting gravel rash and saves the boat ramp too.

As you can see in the photo, I don't store the spare on the trailer, I put it on when I go away, I don't even bother when I go to my local ramp. Saves the tyre from the sun and saves weight too.