Cabin Bulkheads Use Wood or Starboard?

[ddog]

Tried searching but didn't have any luck (cabin bulkhead, bulkhead, starboard). Need to replace the cabin bulkheads (the wood on either side of the cabin door between the floor and cabin ceiling) and was wondering what other people have used. I was considering using 3/4" starboard but wondered if it flexes more than plywood?

Thanks!!
ddog

 

[Grouper Duper]

Mine needs it too, and I'm planning to StarBoard.

 

[gradyfish22]

Dpends how thick the starboard is, thin stuff under 1/2" might not be enough for strength since starboard does flex a little. I'd say 1/2" being the min, perferably maybe 3/4" since you have a good sized area. Persoanlly, for what the starboard will cost you could buy marine ply and do it right for less or the same price and the finished product will look a lot nicer in the end. Not a fan of starboard as a finish product for something so big, looks somewhat cheap even though it isn't and it does last just about for ever. If you replace with wood properly and seal it well and keep it sealed well it should never rot, problem was the wood was sealed correctly and owners were never educated on how to maintain these areas properly which caused the break down over time, not anyones fault, just a lack of communication or knowledge. Persoanlly wood would be my choice, I'd rather do it the right way then the easier way.

 

[sfc2113]

I used cellular PVC Lumber, Cheaper than starboard 3/4in 4ftx8ft $150.00 will never rott and is very flexible. cuts and shapes like woodI am currently replacing all my bulkheads, and one cabin door, and toolbox doors. It is a little whiter than the boats color but can be covered with Vaneer facing, ect. Great stuff.

I will get some pics up and some info on where to buy.

 

[BobP]

You can use plywood, just seal it with resin, several coats at the end grain, that's where it sucked up water.

 

[sfc2113]

Here is the stuff I used: Got it from a local lumber yard:

Make sure your wear safety goggles when cutting this stuff.
And a dusk mask if sanding.



http://www.versatex.com/sheet.php

And here is the link to a dealer locator"

http://www.versatex.com/locate_dealer.php

 

[Workdog]

Like BobP, I used plywood (3/4" Birch finish plywood), then laminated formica on either side and sealed the end grains with epoxy.

Gradyfish, maybe they built them better later, but my '89 did not have the end grains sealed with epoxy. They stapled on a rolled edge vinyl to the bottom and hull-side edges of the bulkheads. Then, when a side window leaked, the water dripped down then along the base of the cabin side of the bulkhead where it seaped into the bottom of the bulkhead wall. I used Almond GE II along the bottom and side edges to seal out any water that might leak in there. Eight years and going strong still.

 

[gonefishintoo]

My Seafarer is done with starboard through out. Only teak left in boat is the trim around the cabin windows and the railing on the sides of the cabin inside. Looks great and easy to clean. Try to take the pieces out whole so all you have to do is trace them onto the starboard.

 

[gw204]

If using ply (non-marine is fine in this appication), I would recommend that it be covered with no less than 1 layer of 3/4 oz mat and one layer of 6 oz. cloth. While coating the edges with epoxy will help to protect it, it's not the best way. Glass over the whole thing and then finish it how you like.

 

[ddog]

Thanks

Thanks for all the input.

I think the cabin headliner (I have the white fur) is currently sandwiched between the bulkhead and the cabin sides/top and I also have the vinyl welting stapled to the endgrain of the existing plywood. For those of you that have replaced the bulkhead (with either plywood or starboard), did you attach/seal right to the fiberglass cabin top or did you use the welting again, leave the headliner there, used something else? I am wondering if this should have some type of cushion material in between the bulkhead and cabin.

Thanks, ddog

 

[Workdog]

The cabin headliner in my Gulfstream looked in fine shape, so I left it in there. While the bulkheads were out, I pulled the blue carpeting along the side walls and at the helm sides and replaced it with a dark grey carpeting that looks nice, and provides a good accent to the cream colored closed-loop carpeting headliner . I cut the new bulkhead walls to fit close and did without the rolled vinyl. I did buy a new strip of rolled-vinyl to trim out the drop down electronics door in the cabin. Stapled it along the edges with rust proof staples, and it looks good and provides a nice bead edge to the panel door. I caulked along the bottom edges of the bulkhead walls on both sides with GE II.

 

[gradyfish22]

Yup, my 89 was not sealed well from the factory, but I knew that and kept a good eye on it and redid the chaulk, used a 3M sealant and have not had a problem with it. Problem as to why they rotted was as stated above, the end grain was not sealed well and the only real seal was a vinyl strip that over time would want to pull out, newer Grady's don,t have that, now bulkheads are typically molded with the deck and cabin as one piece, much less work and way less issues.

As for should you use a gap or soft material against the headliner, NO. If you do it will allow the cabin to flex since one side is unsupported, if the cabin itself is 100% perfect shape it should support itself on it's own, but if there is any damage or fatigue, this will really ruin it over time. If I were doing it, I would first fasten it to the headliner with l brackets and then glass over it, this will be the best way to support the cabin as well as making the headliner more rigid and keep it from flexing and cracking. I would through bolt when ever possible and use 5200 in all screw/bolt holes. As stated above, 2 layers of mat would be perfered. When laying mat, roll the wood surface to cover it all, then saturate the mat, more resin is better then not enough, as your roll out air bubbles you will spread it more even and some will come out. Might want to use a resin accelerator to have it cure faster since you will be fighting gravity a little, will keep the glass from wanting to peel off, if done right it won't. Make sure any corners are rolled well and no air bubbles are present, air bubbles are areas that potentially can break and allow water to seep in down the road, and also take away from the strength of the glass/resin. If you missed any, grind them out, but if rolled right there shouldn't be any. To roll, typically start from one end of the glass and work the opposite waythat way all the air bubbles are pushed one way, if you start in middle you will only fight yourself.

 

[RAINMAKER]

Starboard

I did my 87 Offshore bulkhead and door with 3/4" seafoam colored STARBOARD. I don't know if this is the so called "RIGHT WAY" or not but I CAN tell you this : since I did this in 2000 I've had ZERO issues and I've not had to do any sealing, caulking , "KEEPING an EYE" on it or anything else. It just stays there year after year looking good (not looking cheap) with no fuss or maintainence required.
I purchased a 54"x 96" x 3/4" sheet of seafoamfrom outwater plastics in greensboro nc . I uesd every piece that I wanted to replace as its own template and went from there. The stuff works just like wood with standard wood working tools and it's easy to do.

It might be a little expensive on the front end but if you average out the cost over a few years and the lack of having to mess with it anymore after doing this IMHO it's the only way to fly. :wink:

PM me if I can help in any way "RAINMAKER"

 

[ddog]

Thanks for the input. With the price of resin going up and time also being money, I am leaning toward the starboard. Resin,matt, plywood, finishing and time (total cost) will be very near Starboard I think. My main concern with the starboard was stiffness. King Starboard factory is pretty close to me in Port Charlotte. Not sure if they have a factory store or way to buy direct.

ddog

 

[cdwood]

Starboard will never be as strong properly sealed marine ply. If your looking for a quick fix well there you go. If your looking to make a great boat live longer then re-consider your long range plan for this boat.

 

[RAINMAKER]

Starboard will never be as strong properly sealed marine ply. If your looking for a quick fix well there you go. If your looking to make a great boat live longer then re-consider your long range plan for this boat.

Please tell exactly how you came to this conclusion. When I did my offshore The starboard WAS the LONG term plan. I haven't had the need to reseal anything and ZERO structural problems after nine years . Also my father owned a custom cabinet shop for 25 or so years and I worked there for several . I know a little about the thousands of sheets of plywood I've ran thru a panel saw.
Grady used plywood because it is a much cheaper mat'l than starboard . Lets see3/4" starboard 300.00 a sheet wholsale. 3/4" plywood 25.00 a sheet wholesale. From a manufacturing standpoint that's a no brainer.
Of couse had they used starboard we wouldn't be having this discussion would we. :lol:
In the size and shape the bulkhead pieces will be in they are way strong. Also with the teak door jamb screwed every 2 " down the long (vertical) sides the are really strong.
Not trying to start an aurgument but that's how I see it.

 

[Grouper Duper]

I've got to agree with Rainmaker. I used a piece of 3/4" Starboard to remake swim step and all the rodholders when I first got my boat. There's NO WAY that stuff isn't strong enough or "long-term" enough for the bulkhead. I've had it on 10 years already and it still looks and performs like new. No cracking, no sagging, no whatever.

I used 1/4" for all the trim, and I made one mistake there. The instructions from Starboard said to make the screw holes oval to allow for thermal expansion on long pieces. I didn't, and they DO bow out slightly in the heat of summer. Not the product's fault, I just didn't follow the instructions.

It was easy to work with and install.

 

[cdwood]

Dude, I am not an engineer. Go easy rain, just a boat guy here. Have had the opportunity to lean on a piece of starboard in 4 ft length compared to plywood and just felt the ply was more rigid. Without a doubt starboard will require less or no maintenance. Bottom line , I believe properly treated marine plywood will provide required rigidity and durability. Lets show the world Grady Guys don't argue, they discuss!!

 

[gw204]

Part of the problem with Starboard is expansion and contraction with changes in temperature. You can't/shouldn't cut it for an exact fit like you can with ply.

As for it's strength, I think it would probably be fine in this application because the load on it with be in the vertical direction where resistance to compression should be high.

That being said, I would still go ply with glass in this application. One of the reasons for this is ability to fix damage. Bang into a glass/wood panel and all you do to fix it is grind down the area, reglass (fix the core if necessary) and gelcoat. You can make a perfect repair. Dent Starboard and you just live with the dent...unless you have the dent welded to fill it in and sanded down...but then you have a texture mismatch, replace the panel or cover up the damage. Yes, you can weld Starboard. Had it done on my old boat.

Cdwood is right though. Starboard isn't nearly as strong as wood with glass on both sides if your laying it down flat...like for a tank cover.

 

[cdwood]

bulkhead

When it was time to replace my bulkheads. they were removed in early december. Had them out for the winter of 07'. Traced exact duplicates in 7 layer marine plywood. Soaked the sh-t out of them in West Epoxy. When it was time to re-install, had to literally jack up the stern facing top of the bulkhead in order to get the plywood back in place.