GemLux Deluxe Outrigger Bases

Hookup1 said:
The upper parts of mine look like crap. All around the hardtop. I'm not going there.
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I'm considering painting my hardtop structure. I have the top off and its not a stretch to pull the aluminum structure off and have it painted.

Have you seen any t-top structure painted or painted a different color? What do you think?
 
If you can find a place that does powdercoat on something that big.
They all come powdercoated paint now.

Its possible to dip strip & re-anodize but again you need a place that does it. I haven't looked at all

Keeping it LE$$ than a new build is a question too

Mine is back together, all antennas on except radar has to stay off to tow.
Just finished reinstalling all electronics, fired up motors.. hauler is coming Tuesday!
 
SkunkBoat said:
Mine is back together, all antennas on except radar has to stay off to tow.
Just finished reinstalling all electronics, fired up motors.. hauler is coming Tuesday!
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How high on the trailer are you? I'm 13' 6".

Interesting experience this winter. Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel is 13' 6". I left my VHF wip antenna up for the trip down. Ground the tip down!
 
same 13-6 ish ...depends on the haulers trailer. I added a 4" radar strut and that will put me too close fr comfort. So I will put the radar on at the dock
 
SkunkBoat said:
If you can find a place that does powdercoat on something that big.
They all come powdercoated paint now.

Its possible to dip strip & re-anodize but again you need a place that does it. I haven't looked at all

Keeping it LE$$ than a new build is a question too

Mine is back together, all antennas on except radar has to stay off to tow.
Just finished reinstalling all electronics, fired up motors.. hauler is coming Tuesday!
Click to expand...
I have 4 emails out for a power coat quote. The more I read about it the more I'm thinking painting would be a better choice. Especially over old anodized aluminum that is pitted.
 
This may be snake oil but it looks interesting.
www.auroramarine.com

How can I remove pits and restore my T Top frame? - Boat Cleaners, Boat Maintenance & Boat Protection Products - Aurora Marine

Nick Varie asked: Q: will this product remove pits in aluminum. i have them on my boats aluminum t top A: Which product are you referring to? Can you send me pictures? Q: I guess the buff product but I am not sure if it would work or if you have a better solution A: Read More...
www.auroramarine.com www.auroramarine.com

If I could make the aluminum look better and clear coat it that would be good enough for me
 
That won't help with the discolored anodizing unless you strip everything to bare aluminum and polish it. Then clearcoat would work.
In that case, painting makes more sense because you don't have to get the aluminum shiny again.
Paint/powdercoat will look great for awhile but it will get powdery chips of oxide eventually too.

I've seen there are commercial operations that dip anodized parts to strip them and then re-anodize in whatever color.
 
Two of the three powder coat guys I contacted said their ovens won’t handle my hardtop frame. I have also read that aluminum is difficult to adhere to and powder coating isn’t forever. Painting with the proper prep is a better answer.

As a side note powder coating is less labor intensive than painting and therefore cheaper for manufacturers. Anodized aluminum is the least expensive route.

Now my issue is paint colors for both the boat and aluminum. I hate this part.
 
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Hardtop is off and on a workbench jig I made. Electric, air and water all setup. Unfortunately its outside but I have the option to take it somewhere for paint. One day of sanding and topside is in good rough condition. Maybe flip it tomorrow and reinforce rigger bases. Rough out underside.

Met with a paint guy. Super busy. Maybe I can get him to advise (and pay him) to help guide the project.

Kicking the can down the road for now on color.
 
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Hardtop rebuild coming along. Slow working with AwlFair with 16 hour to sand and outside weather. Rebuilding the gelcoat chipped from the edges requires several coats. Reinforcement for rigger bases is Coosa board inside hardtop. Backing plates will be welded in this coming week. Installing flat to side rails and shimming with finished Coosa board wedges. May build them into hardtop.
Repair underside.jpeg

Selected paint colors. For the topside it will be AwlCraft 2000 Brightside Off-white (light version of faded GW gelcoat). Hull and underside of hardtop will be a custom AwlCraft 2000 Pantone 2985-C Light Blue.
Pantone 2985-c Light Blue.png Bahama Boats F5304.jpeg

Hardtop aluminum going out for sandblasting after welding. AwlGrip Wash Primer and AwlCraft 2000 paint. Brightside Off-white or Sky Blue.

Considering doing a two-tone hull "wave" and hardtop aluminum in AwlCraft 2000 Sky Blue. Would like to know what everyone thinks about the two-tone.
Bahama Boats Blue.jpeg
 
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Nice. You're gonna need new offwhite canvas;)

FYI. I used light grey silicone around the hardtop frame. Way better since I have color now.
I used Almond around the e-box since it is original grady gelcoat and not faded. Came out fantastic. No more moldy white oem grady stuff

Look at the nuts and acorn nuts. awful. I have since changed all of them out with new. I needed both 1/4-20 and 10-24(e-box).
I reused most of the oval head screws and finishing washers(they were doubled on every screw by grady).
Remember, you have to have exactly the right length screw to get a nut and acorn nut to look right. You will have to cut screws if you use new ones.

When putting back together I used neoprene "D" weatherstrip between the top and frame.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088TMTVZ8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

265 2022 projects14.jpg
265 2022 projects18.jpg
 
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That looks real good! Not sure if my electronics box will be white or blue. All hardware will be new. I'll build a new enclosure with Stamoid - some kind of white - and Makrolon. Your aluminum is in far better shape than mine which will painted white or darker blue. I plan on using the weatherstrip but not sure I'm going to caulk it.

I've been sourcing components for upgrades. Probably go with dual air horn on hardtop but it must be guaranteed not to rust! Got GW logo's and striping selected. Closing off front windows. Trying to find something for side windows - Taylor frameless.
 
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So project is getting on track. Hardtop repair and reinforcement is rough finished. Rigger base wedges fabricated and will be glassed in tomorrow. Plates welded into hardtop frame and frame pulled from the boat. Going out for sandblasting this week. I'm going to deal with painting it with AwlGrip products.

White is the right choice for the enclosure but I'm not a big fan of the Stamoid material. It just doesn't weather that well. Sunbrella is awesome but I'm not sure white would be good. I have some in my stock so I'll probably try it.
 
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Sandblasting went well. Some kind of copper material. Maybe metallic. First photo is hand sanded to knock the pitting down. Second photo is after blasting. Aluminum surface feels like fine sandpaper.

IMG_2437.jpeg IMG_2448.jpeg
 
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Hookup1 said:
I plan on using the weatherstrip but not sure I'm going to caulk it.
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you're going to need to caulk it AFTER its on and screwed down.

weather strip fills gap and prevents squeaking but need caulk to prevent salt spray. You have to get the weather strip centered so you can get a bead of caulk without it sticking through. Caulk both sides.
 
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