Groco pump -simple macerator retrofit- 265 Express

[DennisG01]

I'm not sure why the waterline matters. The system is closed off from outside except when pumping out.

Well, you actually answered your own question

Like I said, though, in reality it should be fine. It just may not be technically approved. You should, however, double clamp things... and ideally rotate 180*.

 

[Billv]

My level sensor on my Groco system is bad. Is anyone aware of a cost effective replacement?

 

[SkunkBoat]

My level sensor on my Groco system is bad. Is anyone aware of a cost effective replacement?

I've heard the "SCAD" level sensor is a simple and cheaper alternative to the ridiculous $500 price of a Groco level sense replacement.
I don't have it but thats what I'm looking at.

https://www.scadtech.com/tank_monitors

 

[SecondWind282]

I've heard the "SCAD" level sensor is a simple and cheaper alternative to the ridiculous $500 price of a Groco level sense replacement.
I don't have it but thats what I'm looking at.

https://www.scadtech.com/tank_monitors

After a lot of reading and knowing I'm not a plumber, I just ordered the groco 155 from Defender and scad TM-1 monitor. But, now can't seem to find what switch I need to buy. I would like something that only runs when pushing down vs an on-off rocker switch. Ideally I'll have the master switch on the helm panel which controls a push-release switch installed where the current pump switch is.

Any ideas of a good push-release switch product (to prevent being left on and burning up the macerator)?

 

[A&J Outdoors]

After a lot of reading and knowing I'm not a plumber, I just ordered the groco 155 from Defender and scad TM-1 monitor. But, now can't seem to find what switch I need to buy. I would like something that only runs when pushing down vs an on-off rocker switch. Ideally I'll have the master switch on the helm panel which controls a push-release switch installed where the current pump switch is.

Any ideas of a good push-release switch product (to prevent being left on and burning up the macerator)?

Newwiremarine.com has rocker style switches that turn off once you release them.

 

[DennisG01]

After a lot of reading and knowing I'm not a plumber, I just ordered the groco 155 from Defender and scad TM-1 monitor. But, now can't seem to find what switch I need to buy. I would like something that only runs when pushing down vs an on-off rocker switch. Ideally I'll have the master switch on the helm panel which controls a push-release switch installed where the current pump switch is.

Any ideas of a good push-release switch product (to prevent being left on and burning up the macerator)?

What you want is a "momentary on" switch. Use that search term - they're very, very common and easy to find. It doesn't necessarily have to be a button - it could be a rocker switch. Another option is a simple key switch and use the "start" terminal to energize the macerator.

 

[SecondWind282]

Newwiremarine.com has rocker style switches that turn off once you release them.

Yes! I'm actually in the proofing process of getting a new switch panel made and just emailed them about making the macerator a momentary switch as Dennis below mentioned.

 

[SecondWind282]

What you want is a "momentary on" switch. Use that search term - they're very, very common and easy to find. It doesn't necessarily have to be a button - it could be a rocker switch. Another option is a simple key switch and use the "start" terminal to energize the macerator.

Thanks Dennis! Knowing the right terminology helps

 

[Diad]

Well I finally finished this project. I did exactly as max366 did. The Groco switch still works so I used it. Not sure on the monitor Portion because there’s nothing in it. Also, I assume that it works because, again, there’s nothing in the tank. this project definitely had some challenges! The main one being that the Y valve was not even close to level with the new pump and the pump out fitting. I had to use some 90’s because the sanitation hose just couldn’t bend like that . I failed to snap some pictures but will do so next time at the boat.
on to electrical issues….

 

[Hookup1]

Take the overboard hose off and get a piece of hose. Put in 5-gallon bucket. Pump out and dump in house. Pump out tank several times. Test its ability to lift liquids. Do it now before it has bad stuff in it!

 

[Diad]

Take the overboard hose off and get a piece of hose. Put in 5-gallon bucket. Pump out and dump in house. Pump out tank several times. Test its ability to lift liquids. Do it now before it has bad stuff in it!

Good call!!!!!

 

[vocz]

Just converted my 2003 265 over to Jabsco pump. Was planning to add a y valve but I had to pulled the Groco pump out because the 2 of the 3 bolts holding the pump to the top of the tank rusted off sometimes ago which leave two small holes on top of the plate and leaked air..explained the horrible smells in the cabin when running (I thought it was clogged air vent or old hoses causes the smell) No more smelly cabin!. Good thing I took the pump out because the tank level floats were busted and separate from the stick and could have sucked in the new Jabsco pump. I drilled a new 3” hole on the original plate and use Sealand diptube kit 385310660. While at it, I added Groco Sweet Tank air pump.
The Groco pump is still in great shape for being in water 20 years; they don’t make things like they used to!

 

[SkunkBoat]

Here are pix of the groco pump unit. I removed the pump and terminal board and filled any holes and capped the pump outlet elbow.
Re-installed on the cleaned out tank. I never removed the tank....impossible...
Reconnected vent.
Locked out handle for pump waste thru hull.
Made the wires safe...disconnected from power..
Was then able to use the pumpout station. (1-1/2" Pumpout hose is attached to tank not this plate)

 

[Hookup1]

Yuk!

Now that you have the CPU out (Crap Processing Unit) you have earned your Phd, MSD diploma. If you can get this to work again you can probably get a job at SpaceX.

 

[Hookup1]

Working on mine is extremely difficult. You have to kneel outside the head compartment, lay over the toilet and work one-handed. I'm a lefty so that helps.

 

[max366]

That was the worst part of the project- limited access and long reaches while pressing against an opening!

 

[SkunkBoat]

Jabsco pump and Y valve installed. I little different than the other guys.
Y valve is mounted on the pumpout fitting on top of the tank. I replaced the elbow with a straight 1-1/2" female thread to barb fitting (sched40 pvc).
Had leftover 1-1/2" VAC hose from the scupper project.
I liked that the Jabsco Y valve can rotate the elbows.
There is no longer any switch in the head. Those wires are jumpered. Switch is next to pump. The sensor was alread replaced with SCAD and indicator is on the dash
The deck pumpout hose needs to be cut shorter but mostly I'm done.

Oh FYI, Macerator and Refrigerator both end in "erator". keep that in mind when looking at wire tags.....

 

[Hookup1]

The challenge will be creating enough vacuum to "lift" the waste. That "Y" valve has to seal real well. The impeller will have to be kept wet and all the clamps real tight. My only suggestion would be one or two pieces of the blue silicone hose to make taking things apart easier in awkward location if necessary..

My pump is vertical and drys out. That little bit of "set" the impeller takes from sitting is enough that it won't seal and suck enough. A little water and its fine. I don't use it much so when I go back to it it is dry. You'll find out though. If its going to happen it will happen out there!

 

[SkunkBoat]

The challenge will be creating enough vacuum to "lift" the waste. That "Y" valve has to seal real well. The impeller will have to be kept wet and all the clamps real tight. My only suggestion would be one or two pieces of the blue silicone hose to make taking things apart easier in awkward location if necessary..

My pump is vertical and drys out. That little bit of "set" the impeller takes from sitting is enough that it won't seal and suck enough. A little water and its fine. I don't use it much so when I go back to it it is dry. You'll find out though. If its going to happen it will happen out there!

hehehe ok Capt Ron We say that all the time. Its on a T shirt with my boats name...

It says it should be able to lift. Last November just before pulling the boat I couldn't get a pumpout. They were all shut for winter. That was the impetus for buying the pump. I jumped it in, pretty much where you see the pump now.. but with no y valve.. and it cleared the tank no problem

I wanted everything left in the valve to fall back into the tank

 

[Hookup1]

Mine will lift and work just fine when it’s wet. My tank was full one winter and wouldn’t pumpout overboard. At the house I pulled the hose and attached a 1” hose direct to the pump, ran some water into it and pumped out into a 5-gallon bucket. All it needed was a little help. Hopefully it works for you. Good luck!