Hydraulic steering problem

trapper

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Back to bleeding for a minute, Have bled my system numerous time, changing seals etc. and lately with the AP. One question, is the bleed the same with the variable ways suggested above, when there is an auto pilot in the system?
 

NORTONP

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I ordered a new cylinder, thanks for your offer to help out, though.
 

grady33

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Back to bleeding for a minute, Have bled my system numerous time, changing seals etc. and lately with the AP. One question, is the bleed the same with the variable ways suggested above, when there is an auto pilot in the system?
We attempted to bleed the sea star system for my 272 Sailfish and could never get it perfect. Paid the dealer $150 to bleed it with their sea star bleeding pump. Best $150 I ever spent. Perhaps it’s easy for others but steering is critical so I will always have the dealer/experts do it.

Not sure about the auto pilot as my old boat didn’t have one. Service guy is coming by in a few days to change out seals and bleed. I’ll be watching to see how he does it.
 

seasick

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Having a pressurized fill tank makes bleeding sooo much easier. I suppose if one were creative, he or she could make such a device using a smallish garden sprayer bottle. You don't need a lot of pressure, just enough to keep the reservoir full.
 

Crazyfish1

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Did you bleed the system following the Seastar instructions? If you bled it by yourself, you didn't follow those instructions:)
The fact that the motor 'falls' over when tilted up means one of two things 1. there is air in the system or 2. you have a leak. It is also possible that the check valves in the pump head are dirty. In that case you can have bleed back but you won't leak oil. The valves may be accessible from behind the dash
So, do you loose oil?

On another topic. The trim tab should be adjusted so that the back end (aft) of the tab is turned a small amount to the right, maybe 15 degrees or less as a starting point . Bad adjustment of the tab may put extra turning force on the steering but it is not your problem.
If you can, lower the motor, set to straight ahead and try to rotate it at the motor by pushing on it. If it is springy, the steering system has air. If it rotates without holding the steering wheel and you don't oil leaking, you have an internal leak.
Sometimes if the oil is changed out, a dirty/stuck check valve may clear up but you have to get as much of the old oil out as possible and you will need at least two bottles of new fluid to refill and bleed in
 

Crazyfish1

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They also have a die you dump into and pump it thew trace the lines and look for leak ( OR ) do a pressure leak test with a gauge and air pump and see if it leaks down pressure . Good Luck
 

PrimeMA

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I have a 22' GW with 250 Yamaha 4 stroke. The boat veers to port side, I continually need to steer to starboard to compensate. I have disassembled the helm and everything seems to be moving freely and re-bled the system, doing same thing. Also, I find that when I tilt the motor up and leave it in center position, when I return the next day, the motor has flopped to one side or the other.
5 star marine down in Florida that rebuilds these systems, thought it might be a cracked inner plastic bushing and o-ring, thus leaking from side to side. But Seastar will not sell them that part so can't be rebuilt. They suggested to buy a new one. I also tried adjusting the trim zinc, did not seem to do much?

In the meantime, I dis-assembled the Seastar Cylinder. I expected to find an o-ring or gasket mounted on a plastic piece centrally located on the shaft. It is not an o-ring instead it looks like a brass like disc sandwiched between 2 plastic pieces. I suspect that it works by having a close tolerance fit between the disc and the bore of the cylinder. Could this be worn to the point that fluid is leaking from one side to the other? I'm not convinced of that, It looks to be in good shape. I don't want to spend $600 on a new cylinder to find out that it is not the problem.

Has anyone else had this issue? any other ideas?
Paul
I have the same issue, was replacing the cylinder the fix?
 

seasick

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I have the same issue, was replacing the cylinder the fix?
this is a pretty old thread. You may want to start a new one.
In the meantime, do this test. With the motor down, turn the wheel in one direction until you reach the end on the movement. Put a reasonable amount of pressure , hold the wheel with the pressure applied, note where the wheel is ( use a piece of tape at the top center mark)and see/feel if the steering wheel rotates slowly over time. Do the same for the opposite turn direction.
Note that If you put a lot of pressure on the wheel it will turn since there are pressure relief valves that will open. You should be able to tell when you put too much force on the wheel.

I also assume you have bled the system and have read and followed the instructions for bleeding. If you bled it by yourself, without extra help or a bleeding kit, I am 99% sure you bleed it incorrectly
 

PrimeMA

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this is a pretty old thread. You may want to start a new one.
In the meantime, do this test. With the motor down, turn the wheel in one direction until you reach the end on the movement. Put a reasonable amount of pressure , hold the wheel with the pressure applied, note where the wheel is ( use a piece of tape at the top center mark)and see/feel if the steering wheel rotates slowly over time. Do the same for the opposite turn direction.
Note that If you put a lot of pressure on the wheel it will turn since there are pressure relief valves that will open. You should be able to tell when you put too much force on the wheel.

I also assume you have bled the system and have read and followed the instructions for bleeding. If you bled it by yourself, without extra help or a bleeding kit, I am 99% sure you bleed it incorrectly
I haven't tried anything yet, this is a new to me boat and just noticed it today when taking it for a ride. Thanks I'll try this.
 

PrimeMA

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this is a pretty old thread. You may want to start a new one.
In the meantime, do this test. With the motor down, turn the wheel in one direction until you reach the end on the movement. Put a reasonable amount of pressure , hold the wheel with the pressure applied, note where the wheel is ( use a piece of tape at the top center mark)and see/feel if the steering wheel rotates slowly over time. Do the same for the opposite turn direction.
Note that If you put a lot of pressure on the wheel it will turn since there are pressure relief valves that will open. You should be able to tell when you put too much force on the wheel.

I also assume you have bled the system and have read and followed the instructions for bleeding. If you bled it by yourself, without extra help or a bleeding kit, I am 99% sure you bleed it incorrectly
How long are you talking about leaving it sit before you would notice the creep of the wheel?
 

seasick

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How long are you talking about leaving it sit before you would notice the creep of the wheel?
It could take a while. It all depends on how small or large an internal leak there is. One trick to avoid having to hold the wheel for a period of time is to turn the wheel to one side and hang a heavy weight from a rope tied to the wheel at a spoke position that is horizontal. The weight should be a few inches off of the deck. A heavy gallon can of paint should work (especially it the paint is anti fouling:).
Let it sit and check periodically to see if the can has lowered.
 

Fishtales

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It begs the reminder... Check your hydraulic lines - especially the black plastic ones that go to the engine(s). I had one burst from rubbing on the protective boot on the cable (I thought this was to protect it from rubbing!). I had little time to get the engines straight before all steering was lost. Thank goodness I had twin OBs, just used the binacles to steer and get back to home port.

I replaced all the plastic hoses, replaced fluid and bled the system entirely at the helm (Marlin has a raised hem - gravity may have helped) with no issues.